Organizers staged the first Cuvee in 1989 as a fundraiser for local charities but the event has evolved to lavish celebration of Ontario wines and foods.

The first Cuvee event attracted 350 guests and 16 wineries participated. Today well over 800 attend and 57 wineries pour their best wines, in the new Fallsview Casino’s lavishly furnished ballroom.

Many famous and local chefs demonstrate their culinary inventions to the delight of participants and wineries eagerly pour their award winning wines.

All Cuvee wines are blind tasted over three days by winemakers, with a panel of moderators and experts to break ties, or settle disputes.

Toronto Wine Writers are given an opportunity to taste the winners. The sit-down tasting is held in a quiet room, of the head office of a bank on the 68th floor of the First Canadian Place in downtown Toronto.

Although a range of white (dry and sweet) and red wines are poured, this year I decided to focus on red wines.

All are produced in very small quantities and generally available at the winery store or by mail in Ontario and for export.

If you are interested in any of the wines listed below contact the winery at your earliest convenience.

Here are my selections:

Merlot Reserve, 2007, Cattail Creek Estate Winery – vibrant red, subtle fruit aromas (cherries/berries) and long aftertaste. Cellar for two years.
90/100 $ 40.00

Onyx, 2007, Featherstone Winery – composed of 60 per cent cabernet franc, and 40 merlot. The wine exudes cherry aromas, is of a medium body and possesses a depth of flavour.
92/100 $ 29.95

Impromptu, 2007, Lailey Vineyard – a full bodied and balanced wine blended of syrah (68 per cent), malbec (12), petit verdot (12), and cabernet sauvignon (8). Excellent mouth feel with a long and satisfying aftertaste.
92/100 $ 45.00

17th Street Vineyard Pinot Noir, 2007, Tawse Winery – this single vineyard pinot noir from the Bench was fermented in large oak barrel and aged in 30 per cent new oak. Dark red, smells of strawberries, creamy texture, with depth of flavours and long aftertaste.
92/100 $ 58.00

Small Lot Benchmark Red, 2007, Thirty Bench Winemakers aged for 24 months in French oak this brilliant red wine, exudes ripe fruit aromas, is elegant and balanced. It would be excellent with a medium rare grilled steak or pepper steak.
91/100 $ 60.00

Estate Series Shiraz/Cabernet Sauvignon, 2007, Wayne Gretzky Estates a fine wine from the 2007 vintage, considered to be one oft eh best in the century so far. Vibrant red, smells of berries intermingling with oak, pencil shavings. Medium-bodied and well balanced.
Excellent value.
91/100 $ 22.95

Note : Clos Jordanne and Stratus wines were not presented, possibly all wines are sold out.

It is surprising that so many red wines of such high quality were produced and vinted in a province better known for its white and sweet wines.

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Grapes grew wild and in some locations still do, for centuries before people in the Caucasus accidentally discovered wine. It was in the warehouses of King Jamshid, where bunches of grapes were stored in huge clay jars for the ruler to enjoy the fruit in the winter. He loved to eat grapes. One day, one of his many wives, feeling depressed and suicidal, went to the storage are and ate the fruit which was swimming in its own juice. She really thought that she would die, since the jar was marked “poison” to keep intruders at bay.

Instead, she fell asleep, and when she awoke the depressed feeling turned to joy.
Central Asian peoples have always enjoyed grapes – fresh or dried to raisin, and grew them in their lush valleys.

When the Soviets annexed Turkmenistan, Tajikistan, Uzbekistan, and Kyrgyzstan in 1930’s their first agricultural plans were to collective vineyards and make a lot of wine for Russia since it is too cold to grow grapes except in small regions around the Don River, Chechnya, Dagestan, and Krasnodar.

They laid out grandiose plans and proceeded to create huge state farms and co-operatives, introduced new grape varieties from Georgia, Moldova, Romania and other European countries, and cent their scientists to teach winemaking to locals.
The idea was to consume wine, and ship the rest in bulk to centres equipped with bottling lines to package the wine and distribute from there.

Soviet apparatchiks forgot one important aspect in this planning – most people in these now independent countries are Muslim and shun alcohol. A small percentage does drink, but more vodka and beer than wine.

Although vineyard acreage increased and wine quality improved somewhat, in the final analysis the industry never caught on a big way.

Now all these countries produce wine and supply Russian wineries, but the majority of the harvest is consumed as table grapes and made to raisin.

Turkmenistan, with a population of 5.1 million (89 per cent Muslim), and its capital of Ashgabat is a very small contributor to the Russian market, Uzbekistan with a population of 27.7 million (88 per cent Muslim) and capital of Tashkent, contributes more particularly to the Asian part of Russia.

Tajikistan is the smallest of all Central Asian countries with a population of 7.3 million (99.5 per cent Muslim) and capital Dushanbee, produces some wine, but uses the grapes as table fruit.

Kazakhstan is the largest of all formerly Soviet satellite countries with a population of 15.0 million (65 per cent Muslim) and capital Astana, is a relatively large wine producer and Russian Orthodox and other Christian minorities consume the local wine. The rest is exported to Russian and China.

Kyrgyzistan with a population of 5.2 million (75 per cent Muslim) and capital Bishkek, is a mid-level producer with respectable local wine consumption
Below find more detailed information about countries mentioned:

TURKMENISTAN’S WINES

This Central Asian republic between the Caspian Sea, Uzbekistan, Afghanistan and Iran, located between latitudes 38 – 41 north is a minor wine producer. The population of a little more than five million is mainly (90 per cent) Muslim, nine per cent Eastern orthodox Russians.

The vast Karakurum Desert occupies a large part of this hot and dry country.
Large diurnal temperature changes yield high acid grapes.

Winters are cold and summers warm to hot, with little rain, necessitating irrigation.
Greek and Roman writers reported grape growing as early as 300 B C in the Marghian Valley and in Aria. There are still wild vines in the ravines that have served as a basis for many indigenous varieties.

For centuries, the nomadic population resisted agricultural development, and only consented to settle after the country was annexed to the U S S R.
At the height of viticulture planted vineyards increased to 27 000 hectares.
The vineyards are mostly (70 per cent) around Ashkabad, the Mary- and Chardzahon regions.

Approximately 20 grapes varieties are cultivated, ranging from early to late ripening varieties to ensure continued harvest from June to October.

Of the 20 varieties, terbash, tara uzum Ashabadski, riesling, saperavi, kizil sapak, and bayan shirey are the most popular.

The population abstains from drinking alcohol but most of the wine produced goes to Russia and consumed locally by Russians.

A lot of the grapes are dried to raisin, some are consumed as table grapes.

TAJIK WINES

This Central Asian mountainous republic located between Uzbekistan and China has a considerable vineyard acreage, considering the fact that 98 per cent of the population is Muslim, and prohibited from consuming alcohol.

Located between 39 – 40 latitudes north, the climate of this land-locked country is continental with relatively mild winters on lowlands and valleys at 900 metres above sea level, and hot summers. Precipitation is sufficient to grow grapes suitable for making wine.

Viticulture and winemaking were already thriving when Alexander the Great, the famous Macedonian king, arrived with his army in the fourth century B.C.
Archaeologists unearthed documents certifying that numerous grape varieties were grown inthe country to make wine, vinegar, concentrated must (here called bekmez), raisins and table fruit.

In Osrushan- Ferghana-, and Zervshan River Valleys, viticulture was particularly well developed.

In the 1920;s, small vineyards were amalgamated to cerate large farms, which later became specialized delivering their fruit to wineries established in Leninabad, Pendzhikent and Ura-Tyube under Soviet guidance.

Tajikistan has three grape growing regions – Leninabad int eh north, the Ghissar Valley in the centre, and Vakhsh Valley together with Kuliab regions.

Most vineyards above 900 metre above sea level require winter protection, and some irrigation.

Of the 25 grape varieties allowed, the most important are: rkatsiteli, riesling, cagobi, bayan shirey, muscat rose, cabernet sauvignon, and saperavi; the last two are the most important.

The 50 wineries produce mostly sweet wines to satisfy Russian palates, the biggest market for them.

KYRGYZSTAN

This mountainous Central Asian country with a population of five-and-a-half million is located between latitudes40 – 41 north.

The country has three zones suitable for viticulture – Chuia – and Tallas valleys in the south, and Issyk-Kul depression. Chuia- and Talles Valleys are well-developed viticulturally, and enjoy a moderate climate with adequate rainfall.

Vineyards (10,000 hectares) are located between 600 – 1000 metres above sea level.

Grape growing is mostly geared for raising production, as Muslims like to eat them as snacks while travelling.

In the south, some vineyards are located up to 2000 metres above sea level, to escape suffocating heat, although the majority happen to be between 500 – 750 metres.

Practically all vineyards in Kyrgyzstan must be irrigated to yield an adequate amount of fruit.

45 varieties are recognized for wine making.

These include cabernet sauvignon, rkatsiteli, pinot noir, bayan shirey, kuljinski, riesling, saperavi, budeshiru tetri, mairam, mourvedre kirghizski, Hungarian Muscat, black muscat, cinsault, and Madeleine anegvin.
Much of the wine produced is exported to Russia.

KAZAKSTAN

This large republic south of Russia and bordering China, with its capital Almaty (Alma Ata), is now a member of the Confederation of Independent States (CIS).

The population of 18 million is largely (65 per cent) Muslim, with minorities of Roman Catholics, Protestants, Buddhists, and eastern orthodox Christians.

Although located between latitudes north 40 – 45 only a small percentage (four per cent) of the land is suitable for grape growing.

Viticulture goes back to the seventh century A D.

In the 1990’s, there were 20 000 hectares of vineyards in the country, cultivated mostly by state farms, planned and established by Soviet authorities to supply the republics and to create employment.

Today, vineyards are mostly in the Chimkent region with a climate suitable for viticulture. Irrigation is a must, as is winter protection.

Of the 43 grapes varieties allowed, 24 are table grapes. Popular varieties are rkatsiteli, Riesling, aleatico, kuljinski, saperavi, maiski cherny, pinot noir, cabernet sauvignon, cabernet franc, and rubinovy magaratche.

The country has the potential to produce sufficient quantities of table grapes to supply eastern Russia and produce enough for the local population, at least those who drink wine.

UZBEKISTAN’S WINES

This Central Asian republic, with a population of a little more than 27 million is a CIS member (Commonwealth of Independent States) and produces mostly table grapes, and approximately the same amount of wine as Kazakhstan to the north.

The capital, Tashkent, is famous for its architecture and mosques. 88 percent of the population is Muslim, nine Russian Orthodox, and small segments practising other religions.

The Ferghana Valley was famous for its luscious grapes as early as sixth century B.C., and exported to China to the east. The valley also grew cereal, using irrigation canals.

Arabs, Greeks, and traders brought in a few varieties to the Ferghana Valley from Iran.

Archaeologists discovered grape seeds, dating back to fifth century B C, near Samarkand in Tali Borzu.

Viticulture ad winemaking flourished up to the seventh century A. D. until the arrival of Arabs and Islam.

Then production was changed to table grapes and raisin production. Russians arrived in teh middle of the 19th century and introduced grape varieties from Moldova, and Ukraine (Crimea), Georgia, and other varieties to increase production.
In 1917 Uzbekistan had 38,000 hectares of vineyards mostly owned by individuals; three years later specialized large-scale state farms were established.

Uzbekistan is a mountainous country (30 percent of the land consists of mountains i,.e Tian-Shan, Pamir and Alai.

The climate is continental with mild winters and warm to hot summers with low precipitation in the lowlands. In the mountains rainfall is one metre, more than enough for successful viticulture.

Grapes are grown around Tashkent, Samarkand and Bukhara; these cities are also famous for carpet weaving with distinct designs.

Aleatico, riesling, Hungarian muskat, Muscat rose, soiaki, saperavi, bayan shirey, rkatsiteli, khindogny, kuljukski and morrastell are the most popular grapes.

Early and late ripening varieties were chosen so that there will be continuous harvesting for 120 days during the year.

Uzbekistan produces dry, powerful, dessert, and sparkling wines to satisfy local and Russian demand.

Ampelographer A. Negrul, and important viticulture expert, works with the Shreder Research Institute for Horticulture, Viticulture, and Oenolgy in an attempt to improve the industry and fruit quality.

Winemaking industry flourished with Russian expert help and to this day there are still many Russians and even Germans from before World War I who live and work there.

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Once under the umbrella of Yugoslavia, this country on the Adriatic Sea has a long and varied vitvinicultural history starting with ancient Greeks who where probably the first to plant grapes in the region.

Croatia is located between 43 – 46 latitudes north bordering Bosnia and Herzegovina, Hungary, Slovenia and the Adriatic Sea.

The majority of wine produced is white, with some rose and little red.

Ranges of hills that follow the contour of the coast split vineyards.

Inland Croatia extends south and east from the eastern tip of Austria along the Drava River, a contributor to the Danube.

The Adriatic coast including the Dalmatian, Istrian Coast, and all the islands down to the idyllic town of Dubrovnik produces both red and white wines.

Istria in this region has vineyards planted to cabernet sauvignon, merlot, refosco, malvasia, gamay, pinot noir, and plavac mali.

Plavac mali is used to produce Dingac and Postup, both of which are high alcohol red wines with some aging potential.

Babic, posip, girk, vugava are minor varieties planted.

Marastino, a white grape, can be vinified to a fresh, light, and herbal wine if grapes are harvested early.

The government promulgated wine laws and defined 300 geographical entities for vineyards along western vitivinicultural philosophy of terroir.

While the laws exist, enforcement seems to be far from effective.

Most of the Croatian wines are low in acidity and “made” sweet for inexpensive export in 2 Litre bottles to Germany where a certain market exists.

Wine making technology was updated in 1950’s and lacks modern equipment, knowledge, and will to produce dry, refined and balanced wines.

The practice of “semi-communism” introduced by Josip Broz Tito has largely contributed to stop technological the evolution of the industry. Before this unfortunate historical event, the Ottoman Empire’s army occupied the region at the beginning of the 15th century and imposed anti-alcohol laws and Islamic culture upon the population, but tolerated Christian and Jewish customs of wine consumption, albeit both minorities were taxed heavily for the privilege of living there.

Since the disintegration of Yugoslavia, Croatia’s wine industry made great strides, but lack of investment represents major impediments to modern winemaking.

For white wines, growers prefer: chardonnay, debit, bratkovina, drne, kucrna, grasevina (welschriesling), grk, kraljevina, malvazija, muscat bijeli (white muscat), muscat zuli (yellow muscat), muscat Ottonel, pinot blanc, pinot gris, posip, rkatsiteli, traminac, and tramisvini (gewürztraminer), trebbiano Toscano, and verduzzo.

For reds the following varieties are planted: babic, barbera, cabernet franc, cabernet sauvignon, carignan, frankovka (blaufrankisch, lemberger, kekfrankos), gamay, grenascrini, St. Laurent, merlot, nebbiolo, pinot noir, syrah, refosco, zweigelt, and crljenak kastelanski.

Two grape varieties of importance in western winemaking originated in the region: krljenak kastelanski is the ancestor of primitivo of Puglia in Italy. It was transplanted to California by Puglisi immigrants and since then acclimatized to the terroir. It is called zinfandel in the U S A.

Gouais blanc is an ancient white, obscure white grape variety claimed to the mother of many now popular grape varieties i.e. chardonnay, aligote, auxerrois, bachet, franc noir, gamay noir, melon, and romorantin. It has many synonyms and has been crossbred with chenin blanc resulting in colombard; others are balzac blanc and meslier.

Recent DNA (deoxybonucleic acid) studies conform the ancestry mentioned above.

According to history researchers, gouvais blanc was given by emperor Marcus Aurelius Probus (born 232 – 282 and emperor from 276 – 282), from Pannonia, to Gauls who planted it close to pinot vineyards where many spontaneous crosses resulted i.e aubin vert, knipperle, and roublot.

Gouais was known as weisser Heunisch in the Middle Ages and planted in many vineyards of what is today France including Jura, but here it was wiped out with the invasion oft eh phylloxera vastatrix in late 18th century and never replanted.
In Geisenheim’s (the most famous school of oenology in Germany) experimental vineyards there are a few rows of gouais.

Montpellier (a reputable French school of vitivinicultural science) has a few rows as well.

According to the law three levels of quality exists,
Table wine
Quality wine
Premium wine

A part of the population is Muslim and does not drink wine; therefore the 36,000 hectares of vineyards yield too many grapes.

Exports to neighbouring countries is a must, and at prices that are much lower than they should be, if quality satisfy taste requirements in these markets.

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This large Eastern Mediterranean Island has been producing wine since 2300 B.C as archaeological excavations prove.

The evolution of winemaking can be conveniently divided into the following eras – Lusignan, Ottoman, British and since 1980.

During the Lusignan era, with the help of Armenian rulers of Cilicia in what is today southern Turkey, winemaking advanced and drinking was popularized.

When the Ottoman Empire (15th century) occupied the island, winemaking suffered a significant set back. Most of the vineyards were uprooted; some were kept for table grape production. This lasted until 1878 at which time the British crown started to govern. Winemaking came to prominence again. Britain was and still is a lucrative market for Cypriot wine.

When Cyprus became independent in 1980, the industry was forced to look for additional export markets. At the time there were only a few large wineries (KEO, ETKO, LOEL, and SOPAP), which produced wine more for export and especially for Britain.

Wine laws were promulgated to make dry wines more appealing to western palates:

Table winwes
Local wines (must contain 85 per cent of grapes grown in the area)
Protected designation of origin (yields and grape varieties are prescribed, maximum pressing limits imposed, aging periods defined).

Appellation of origin (Prescribes altitude of vineyard (600 – 750 metres above sea level), yields are restricted to 36 – 45 hectolitres/hectare pending on vineyard elevation) all vines must be five years or older, and regions are delimited.
Palomino and Semillon are popular white grapes.

Mavro, xynesteri, Malaga, shiraz, grenache, Alicate-Bouchet, cabernet sauvignon, cabernet franc, and carignan are popular red varieties.

Consultants from Spain, Italy and France have been invited to help produce more appealing table wines.

The most famous wine of Cyprus is Commandaria. It was produced before the 12th century and gained fame when Richard the Lionheart drank and enjoyed it during his wedding on the island. He claimed Commnandaria to be “ A wine for kings and king of wines”.

Commandaria must be produced exclusively using mavro and xynesteri grapes that are sun-dried for a few weeks, then crushed and fermented The minimum alcohol level is established as 15 per cent ABV and may be fortified to achieve that level, but this is rarely necessary given the climate of the region. Commandaria is sweet must be barrel aged for a minimum of four years.

Cypriot vineyards have never experienced phylloxera.

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This Central Asian republic, with a population of a little more than 27 million is a CIS member (Commonwealth of Independent States) and produces mostly table grapes, and approximately the same amount of wine as Kazakhstan to the north.

The capital, Tashkent, is famous for its architecture and mosques. 88 percent of the population is Muslim, nine Russian Orthodox, and small segments practising other religions.

The Ferghana Valley was famous for its luscious grapes as early as sixth century B.C., and exported to China to the east. The valley also grew cereal, using irrigation canals.

Arabs, Greeks, and traders brought in a few varieties to the Ferghana Valley from Iran.

Archaeologists discovered grape seeds, dating back to fifth century B C, near Samarkand in Tali Borzu.

Viticulture ad winemaking flourished up to the seventh century A. D. until the arrival of Arabs and Islam.

Then production was changed to table grapes and raisin production. Russians arrived in teh middle of the 19th century and introduced grape varieties from Moldova, and Ukraine (Crimea), Georgia, and other varieties to increase production.

In 1917 Uzbekistan had 38,000 hectares of vineyards mostly owned by individuals; three years later specialized large-scale state farms were established.

Uzbekistan is a mountainous country (30 percent of the land consists of mountains i,.e Tian-Shan, Pamir and Alai.

The climate is continental with mild winters and warm to hot summers with low precipitation in the lowlands. In the mountains rainfall is one metre, more than enough for successful viticulture.

Grapes are grown around Tashkent, Samarkand and Bukhara; these cities are also famous for carpet weaving with distinct designs.

Aleatico, riesling, Hungarian muskat, Muscat rose, soiaki, saperavi, bayan shirey, rkatsiteli, khindogny, kuljukski and morrastell are the most popular grapes.

Early and late ripening varieties were chosen so that there will be continuous harvesting for 120 days during the year.

Uzbekistan produces dry, powerful, dessert, and sparkling wines to satisfy local and Russian demand.

Ampelographer A. Negrul, and important viticulture expert, works with the Shreder Research Institute for Horticulture, Viticulture, and Enolgy.

Winemaking industry flourished with Russian expert help and to this day there are still many Russians and even Germans from before World War I who live and work there.

Never miss a post! subscribe via RSS or subscribe via e-mail.   Post writer – Hrayr Berberoglu – E-mail – Read his books?

This fertile land’s vitivinicultural history goes back to pre-Christian centuries. The long occupation of Ottoman Turks slowed wine making and the development of the wine industry.

Bulgaria’s modern wine industry started approximately in 1890’s and three decades later consisted of thousands of small grape growers delivering to co-operatives, which were more interested in quantity than quality.

Since then, the development of the Bulgarian wine industry was linked to the soviet demand, and later Comecon (The soviet common market) economics and politics.

Vinprom (since 1930’s) was the only government agency in charge of importing and exporting wine.

Much of the private acreage was expropriated and combined to cerate huge tracts of land and vineyards with an objective to produce quantity at lowest cost possible.
In 1960’s, agricultural–industrial complexes were producing cereal, grapes, fertilizers pesticides, rice, fruits, and vegetables.

Regardless of this arrangement, new grape varieties like cabernet sauvignon, sauvignon banc, rkatsiteli, welschriesling, merlot were introduced to satisfy external demand. This was done mostly to increase exports and to take advantage of the recognition factor of these varieties in western markets.

The Soviet government helped install stainless steel tanks, bottling lines, refrigeration, filters in an attempt to encourage Bulgaria to produce sweet sparkling and sweet still wines for which there was huge demand in Russia.

Since 1989, the Bulgarian government has been trying to return vineyard parcels to their legitimate owner who could prove their claims. This is a long and convoluted process, which may take still several years.

Wineries were privatized, and some sold to western European corporations.

During Soviet times American capital, provided by Pepsico in exchange for marketing privileges Pepsi Cola in Bulgaira, facilitated the involvement of University of California at Davis experts to advise the industry. Pepsico was interested in marketing Bulgarian wines in the U S A, and for the plan to succeed quality and consistency were important. American experts advised wineries on these points.

Now Vinprom is disbanded, the Russian market a shadow of its former self, and the industry in great difficulty with inventories of sweet- and sweet sparkling wines which few western countries are willing to buy.

Regardless Bulgaria, a small country stretching from the Black Sea to Slovenia approximately 300 km. and from Varna to the Romanian border for 200 km, has the potential to produce fine wines, and over time, this will be achieved with expert help and western capital.

The country is now a member of the European union, and has launched wine laws more or less along the lines of appellation controlle of France and Denominazione di origine controllata of Italy.

The laws distinguish:
Basic light wines
High quality (mostly branded wines)
Special wines
Declared geographic region (DGO)

Controliran wine is the equivalent of France’s AOC. Reserve quality white wines must be barrel aged for a minimum of two years, and reds for three.

Grapes are grown throughout Bulgaria’s five regions.

Eastern region extends from the Black Sea coast from Burgas to the Romanian border and west to Khan Krum. The region has three sub-regions – Northern Seacoast, Southern Sea- coast and Inland.

Northern Plain Region extends south of the Danube River, which forms the border between Romania and Bulgaria. It has three sub-regions – East, Central and West. This region’s vineyards represent 30 per cent of all acreage and grow mostly red grapes.

Sub Balkan region around the city of Sliven is famous for its melnik variety.

A southern region is located north of Greece and has vast vineyards for red grapes.

Southwestern region shares borders with Slovakia.

For red wines gamza (kadarka in Hungary), mavrud, melnik, pamid, cabernet sauvignon, pinot noir, saperavi, and senzo (cinsault) are planted along with experimental varieties to determine which ones thrive and yield better wines.

For white wines dimiat, misket, rkatsiteli, feteaska, welschriesling, muscat-Ottonel, chardonnay, sauvignon blanc, gewürztraminer, aligote and ugni blanc (trebbiano in Italy) are planted, Misket is a cross of riesling and dimiat.

Now there are more than 50 wineries; some owned by German and Italian interested.
The most famous ones are: Blue Ridge, Domaine Boyar, VINI, Telish, and Targovischte.

Bulgarian wines of Soviet times were deliberately low priced, and of mediocre quality, to capture market share in western markets.

People now expect Bulgarian wine to be less expensive at all times even if quality warrants a high price.

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This country’s vitivinicultural history goes back 2500 years. Trading Greeks established vineyards on the northern coast of the Black Sea close to Rostov-on-Don. Generally, Russians prefer spirits and beers to wine, therefore made little effort to expand vineyards, and the climate is less than suitable for large-scale grape growing, being prone to extremely cold winters. Vines die at – 25 C and often the temperatures prevailing this far north are lower than that.

The U S S R (Union of soviet Socialist Republics) had sufficient satellite countries (Moldova, Azerbaijan, Armenia, Uzbekistan, Turkmenistan, and Kazakhstan) to cover much of the needs supplemented with imports from Hungary, Bulgaria, Georgia, and Romania.

Additional demand, if and when it occurred, was covered by imports from Argentina, and Algeria with low-end bulk wine.

All wineries in the U S S R had to ship their wines in bulk to bottling plants located throughout the country. Quality varied a great deal, even from one bottle to the next in one case, and often bulk wine was sold directly from boxcars.

Most of the vineyards in Russia are around Krasnodar (44 N), Stavropol (44 N). Rostov-on-Don (47 N) and Dagesthan (42 – 44 N), a semi-autonomous region along the northwestern shores of the Caspian Sea.

Along the Don River, vines must be buried before winter sets in so as to protect them from freezing, and uncovered in spring; this is a time consuming and expensive undertaking.

Krasnodar krai (region) is responsible for 50 per cent of wine production in Russia, and rkatsiteli (a white grape variety indigenous to Georgia) constitutes 45 per cent of total wine output.

Aligote, traminer, and Riesling are some of the other white grapes planted.

Fore red wines, cabernet sauvignon, merlot, pinot noir, and saperavi, cabernet severnyi, and saperavi severny are planted. Cabernet severnyi and saperavi severny are hybrids developed by research stations because for their cold resistance. Severnyi is a hybrid of vitis aurensis and seianetze malengra.

Today, there is more than 10 privately owned wineries around the northern Caucasus, including Rostov-on-Don, and quality is improving with imported help from Europe.

Russians consume substantial quantities of sparkling wines and even developed a continuous sparkling wine production technology to satisfy demand. This technology yields acceptable, but never great sparkling wines.

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Under the Roman Empire, Portugal was known as Lusitania (from Losus, son of Bacchus, the Roman god of wine). Before Romans, trading Phoenicians from eastern Mediterranean had introduced wine to the indigenous population.
Moors, a North African Muslim tribe occupied the country from 711 to 1249, but kept vineyards, since the rulers liked to enjoy grapes. They were tolerant of the population to make and drink wine.

After Spain granted independence to Portugal in 1668, the country allied with England, which rekindled exports that grew considerably in the beginning of the 18^th century. Port wines represented the biggest increase in exports.

More than 300 grape varieties are planted, many of which are indigenous.

Main varieties in red: aragonez or tinta roriz (tempranillo in Spain), baga, castelao, touriga nacional, touriga franca, and trincadeira (tinta amarela). Of late more and more growers are planting cabernet sauvignon, syrah, and other internationally known varieties. Touriga nacional is the most popular of all red varieties.

For whites, growers plant: fernao pires, alvarinho (albarino in Spain), arinto, encruzado, loureiro. Chardonnay, sauvignon blanc, semillon are being planted in increasing amounts.

In the past, most Portuguese table wines were barrel aged for too long. Many had lost their fruit fully, and others were oxidized, with the notable exceptions of ports and Madeira wines. This is no longer the case. Modern wines display vibrant fruit. Reds are balanced and to some extent fruit-driven to appeal to younger drinkers in export markets.

Portugal has more 220 000 hectares of vineyards and ranks 8^th on quantity in the world. Considering the fact that vineyard acreage represents three per cent of world’s total, this is remarkable.

Of the seven-and-a-half millions hectolitres, 70 per cent are reds. Much of the wine is consumed within the country (locals and tourists), but to the U S A, France, Angola, the Untied Kingdom, and Canada exports are increasing rapidly

Under the current appellation system, Denominacao de origem controlada created in 1990 that defined boundaries for each of the 12 regions.

The listing below runs north to south:

Minho, Tras os montes, Douro ports, Douro table wines, Beiras, Estremadura, Ribatejo, Alentejo, Terras de Sado, Algarve, Azores, and Madeira.

Minho in the north is famous for its light and crisp vinho verde, which has a different taste pending on the main grape variety predominant in the, blend. There is also a red vinho verde popular in the region.

Tras-os-Montes (beyond the mountains) is the most rugged of all regions and now produces remarkable red wines of finesse and power. The Douro Valley, on both banks of this mighty river that enters Portugal from Spain, is home to two distinct classifications – fortified wines, better known as ports, and table wines, which are now becoming more and more popular. The valley is divided into three sub-regions lower Douro, Middle Douro (Baixo), and Alto Douro, close to the Spanish border.

Beiras includes the appellations of Dao, Bairrada, and Tavora Varoso. Bairrada is famous for its baga grape based, tannic wines. Sparkling wines are also produced in this region.

Dao produces remarkable fruity, and acid-driven white wines from the enzcruzado grapes which age well and if cellared sufficiently long (two or three years) develop complexity.

Estremadura along the Atlantic coast and south of the famous university town of Coimbra has the following appellations – Alenquer, Arruda, Bucelas, Carcavelos, Colares, Lourinha, Obidos and Torres vedras. Here cabernet sauvignon, merlot, and chardonnay thrive amongst indigenous varieties.

Ribatejo stretching north and south from the city of Santarem is relatively flat, and most of the wines produced there were sold in bulk. Now, large and modern wine estates dominate the scene and produce fine wines that are marketed all over Europe and North America.

Alentejo, 120 km. east of Lisbon, is home to huge wine estates, cork trees, and olive groves. Here vineyards, planted scientifically according to terroir, yield fine fruit, which is vinified using modern technology and equipment. Appealing, full-bodied and fruit-driven red and white wines are now produced and exported.

Terras de Sado, located south of Lisbon and along the Atlantic Coast is home to two appellations – Palmela and Setubal.

Moscatel de Setubal, a fortified sweet wine made using Muscat grapes, smells floral and fruity and ages well. Palmela wines made using castelao grapes taste fine with local fare and light meat dishes, including pastas and pizzas.

Algarve located in the south of the country covers the appellations Lagos, Portimao, Lagoa, and Tavira. The wines are soft and fruit. All should be enjoyed within a year or two of vintage year.

Azores consists of nine small islands in mid-Atlantic. Mainland settlers planted the first vineyards in the 15^th century. Some fortified and light dry white wines are produced for local and tourist consumption.

Madeira, located 1000 km from the Portuguese mainland is best known for its fortified wines. Some wineries are now making dry table wines (Madeirense) to take advantage of demand and use fruit unsuitable for fortified wine.

In the past two decades, there has been a revival in the wine industry, mainly with considerable contributions of the European Union head office in Brussels in the form of research grants.

Portuguese wineries have used these funds to their advantage for training, investment in modern equipment and research.

Today, at all price points, the wines are undervalued, yet the finest examples can compete with the best anywhere.

Portugal is quickly becoming one of Europe’s top wine destinations, and its wines are gaining the preference of young and old wine drinkers.

ALENTEJO The undulating Alentejo plains south and east of Lisbon cover a third of mainland Portugal and most of the country south of the river Tagus.  In complete contrast to the north, this is a sparsely populated region where cereal farms stretch as far as the eye can see.  Over the last 20 years the Alentejo region has emerged as an important winemaking area and more recently Cooperatives and single estates have worked hard to modernize both the vineyards and the wineries.  The winemaking potential of the Alentejo is finally being realized with demand for vineyards far exceeding supply resulting in the highest prices per hectare in Portugal.

Grape varieties: The production of red wine, principally from Aragonez, Trincadeira, Moreto and Castelao grapes, exceeds white, although some growers are realizing the potential of white varieties such as Antao Vaz, Roupeiro and Perrum.

BEIRAS Occupying the central part of Portugal, this vast land of forests is home to some of the most interesting wines in Portugal.  The climate and landscape is varied; the local dishes too – from light grilled fish and seafood to heavy lamb stews.  And there is a range of wines to suit every palate and dish.  With its ever-changing landscapes and charming towns, Beiras is where the DOCs of Bairrada and Dao are located.

BAIRRADA Bairrada is an area of agricultural smallholdings.  Cereals, beans and vines thrive in between clumps of eucalyptus on the heavy but fertile clay soils.  There are a number of cooperatives in the region but an increasing number of independent producers are springing up.

Grapes Varieties: Bairrada is unusual in Portugal in that it is almost a one-grape region.  Over 80 per cent of the wines are red, made principally from the Baga vine.  Baga is the native grape of the Bairrada region.  With care it is possible to squeeze all of the juicy character into the bottle without bringing out its aggressive side.  White grapes, mostly Maria Gomes and Bical are grown to produce traditional method sparkling wines.

DAO Locked in three sides by high granite mountains and sheltered from the Atlantic, it benefits from long warm summers, cool nights and abundant winter rainfall.  The sandy soils are well drained and the vineyards are stocked with a wealth of indigenous grape varieties.

Grape varieties: Over two-thirds of D5o wines are red and made from anything up to nine different authorized grapes.  Touriga Nacional must account for at least 20 per cent of any one wine.  The other grapes permitted to make up the remainder are Jaen, Tinta Pinheira, Alfrocheiro Preto and Tinta Roriz and the rather unfortunately named Bastardo.

Young fresh fragrant white wines come from the Encruzado variety, which can be blended with varieties such as Assario Branco and Bical.

DOURO Probably most famous as the source of the famous fortified wine port, although the Douro DOC is increasingly well known for the production of unfortified table wine.

The Douro Valley was demarcated in 1756 making it one of the oldest delimited wine regions in the world.  The boundaries have since been modified but the irregular outline corresponds closely with an outcrop of pre-Cambrian schist.  Hemmed in by granite, this schist runs either side of the river for nearly 100 km from the Spanish frontier to the west.

Table wines are not new to the Douro.  Until the early part of the 18th century, most of the wine exported from the region was fermented dry and shipped without the addition of spirit.  With the huge investment in both skills and equipment that are necessary to make table wine in the extreme Douro climate we now find an area which has established itself as one of Portugal’s finest and most admired wine producing regions.

Grapes varieties: The grape varieties used in making Douro table wines are similar to those used to produce port.  More than 90 different grapes being permitted of which some of the most popular varieties include Touriga Franca, Touriga Nacional and Tinta Roriz (Tempranillo).  Rabigato, Gouveio, and Viosinho are some of the white grape varieties used in the region.

ESTREMADURA is a relatively narrow strip of hilly land lying between the Tagus River and the Atlantic Ocean about 60 miles long and 40 miles wide.  This region is characterised by its gentle rolling hills where the colour green predominates.  Located north of Lisbon, it is known as The Vegetable Garden of Lisbon.  It contains the DOC regions of Torres Vedras in the west, Arruda in the east and Alenquer in the centre.  The climate dictates the styles of wine produced in these three areas, since the vineyards closest to the Atlantic are subject to wetter and more moderate conditions and thus produce lighter, less alcoholic wines, while the vines planted further inland give stronger an fruitier wines.

Grape varieties: For red wines Castelao, Tinta Miuda, Trincadeira and for white Arinto, Vital and Fernao Pires.

RIBATEJO is one of the wealthiest parts of rural Portugal.  The swollen river naturally irrigates vines planted on the flood plain most winters yielding abundant harvests.   Soils are poorer on the stretch alongside the left bank of the Tagus down to Alentejo.

The percentage volume of alcohol of the wine produced in this region is high as a result of the grapes’ exposure to the sun, which reflects on the white sands where the vine grows.

Grape Varieties: a number of varieties can be found in this region, not only indigenous but also international.  Fernao Pires, Arinto and Talia are the favoured white grapes while Castel5o Franc6s, Alfrocheiro, Trincadeira, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Syrah produce a wide variety of red wines.

TERRAS DO SADO is the name of the river, which cuts through this vast plain, sandy region with its mild winters and very hot summers.  The region is famous for its beautiful beaches and fishing villages, as well as its natural parks, laid down around the Sado and Tagus estuary and the Arrabida Mountain.  This area is renowned for its Muscat and Castel5o Franc6s grape varieties, producing very concentrated, fruity wines, recommended for drinking with food because of their strong tannins.  However, some of the new wines from this area, recently introduced into the market, are in contrast soft, and perfect for drinking before and after meals.  The region is also famous for its Moscatel fortified wines, an ideal complement to cakes and sweet desserts, as well as a digestive drink.

Palmela is the larger of the two distinct wine regions on the Set6bal peninsula.  Low yielding vineyards on the north-facing clay and limestone slopes have traditionally produced the best wines, whilst those on the fertile, sandy plain extending eastwards from the fortress town of Palmela have always been more productive.

Grape varieties: The most important grape of the region is the versatile red Castelao Frances (nick-named Periquita), which is used to make red, ros6 and sparkling wines.  Espadeiro and Monvedro are also grown, but imported varieties such as Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot are gaining in popularity.  Apart from the Muscat of Alexandria (see below) Arinto and Esgana are the most significant white varieties.  Chardonnay, Riesling and Gewurztraminer are also grown successfully.

VINHO VERDE It is the white wine from this region that is most often seen around the world.  It is Portugal’s largest demarcated wine region, extending from Vale da Cambra south of the river Douro to the river Minho that forms the frontier with Spain.  It officially divides into six sub-regions, distinguished by climatic differences and the white grape varieties grown there.

Within this region you will find some of the oldest manor houses and noble families in the country dating back to the 11th and 12th centuries.  The region is punctuated by a

patchwork of farms and estates, producing a wide variety of agricultural products including grapes.  Vinho Verde is famous for its landscape of evergreen mountains and valleys, with mild winters and warm pleasant summers.  A region steeped in history, where wine has always played a major role as the best companion for the local fresh fish, meat, poultry and homegrown vegetables.

Grape varieties: Alvarinho, a prestigious variety that produces one of the best but least typical Vinhos Verdes.  Alcohol levels can be up to 13% and the wines are notably age-worthy.  Loureiro, Trajadura and Pedern5 all grow in the Vinho Verde DOC around the towns of Braga, Barcelos and Guimar5es.  These high-yielding vines produce wines that are light and fresh, typically with an alcoholic strength of between 8 and 10%.  Avesso is an important variety grown around the town of Bai5o in the Vinho Verde producing a slightly fuller style of wine.

The most popular grape varieties of Portugal:

White

Alvarinho Produces medium to full-bodied dry, crisp, aromatic wines with notes of peach, citrus, and apple.

Arinto produces dry, tangy wines with refreshing acidity, plenty of citrus fruit, some apple and mineral aromas.

Fernao Pires Characterised by floral aromas, apple, citrus notat and moderate acidity.

Red:

Aragones A highly regarded variety, rich in tannins that produces fruity (redcurrant, cherry, raspberry), dark and aromatic wines.

Castelao Young wines from this grape often have notes of raspberry and redcurrant, maturing with time to develop a warmer, smoother, more tarry character.

Touriga Nacional The wines are often aromatic, bursting with dark berry fruits yet often with floral notes of violets and rockrose pine, eucalyptus and herbs on the nose, plus the potential to age extremely well.

Trincadeira Produces rich and powerful dry reds with blackcurrant fruit, wild flowers and green herb notes.

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Although it is the most renowned winegrowing region in the U S A, Napa Valley, a mere 14 per cent the size of Bordeaux, produces only four per cent of the wine made in California, which, if it were a country, would rank sixth largest wine producer in the world.
Although only four per cent of wine is produced in the state, Napa Valley wine sales generate 40 per cent of the economic impact of California’s wine industry on the total American economy.
While it may appear to the casual observer that Napa County is bursting with vines, only nine per cent of the county is planted in vineyards. Forty years ago, landowners realized the location of their county, a mere 100 km. from San Francisco, all but guaranteed urban development and growth pressures. Given the fact that the average American likes to drive and does not mind commuting, much of Napa Valley could have become paved over and covered with lavish homes and strip malls.
In 1968, Napa valley vintners, growers and community leaders had the forethought to preserve open space and prevent future unabashed development by enacting the first Agricultural Preserve of America.
Throughout wine connoisseurs Napa Valley is synonymous with California’s best wine producing region. Who has not heard of Napa Valley? But knowing the name and appreciating the wines of this incomparable valley are two entirely different things.
Napa Valley has been producing wine for more than a century, but it was the legendary Robert Mondavi who put the region on the map. He promoted his beloved Valley throughout his business life, built his world famous winery here, and travelled the world to promote it – first the county and then his wines.
The valley is approximately 50 Km. Log and two to six Km. Wide. The south, Carneros, is cooler because of the climatic effect of the San Pablo Bay. Here chardonnay and pinot noir yield fine, delicate wines, whereas further north starting in Oakville the weather get warm and cabernet sauvignon, syrah, cabernet franc and merlot among others thrive.
Napa Valley is home to some of the best and most famous American wineries i.e R. Mondavi, Cuvaison, Heitz, Schrambsberg, Moet et Chandon Sparkling Wines, Stag’s Leap Winery, Pahlmeyer, Oakville Ranch, Silver Oak, Opus One, Darioush, Far Niente, Shafer, Cakebread, Markham, Beringer, Rubicon, Duckhorn, and Grgich Hill Estate just to name a few.
The Valley has almost 140 soil types, conveniently divided into three groups Carneros and south Napa, marine clays, western side; Mayamas Range sedimentary loam and alluvial; eastern side/Vaca Range volcanic loams and clays.
Although Napa Valley produces a small proportion of California wines, and sells a very high percentage of it, winery owners/managers never stop promoting their wines.
Advertising and promotion is engrained into the psyche of American business, and because of this belief, often the Association of Napa Valley winery organizes tastings in important markets, one being Ontario more specifically Toronto.
This year approximately 50 Napa Valley wineries poured their best in ROM (Royal Ontario Museum).
Here is a list of the wines that I found to be outstanding. Due to space constraints I cannot provide detailed descriptions, but guarantee their impeccable texture, flavour, balance, bouquet, and extraordinary finish.

White wines:

Chardonnay, 2007, Cuvaison, Los Carneros
Chardonnay, 2006, Grgich Hill Estate
Chardonnay, 2007, Heitz
Chardonnay, 2007, Pine Ridge
Chardonnay, 2007, Oakville Ranch
Reserve Chardonnay 2005, Sterling

Sparkling wine

Blanc de Noir, 2006, Schramsberg

Red Wines:

Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon, 2004, Sterling
Cabernet Sauvignon, 2005, Pahlmeyer
Cabernet Sauvignon, 2005, Heitz
Cabernet Sauvignon Trailside Vineyard, 1999, Heitz
Cabernet Sauvignon, 2005, Grgich Hill Estate
Cabernet Sauvignon, 2005, Hestan
Cabernet Sauvignon, 2006. Darioush
Cabernet Sauvignon Caravan, 2006, Darioush
Cabernet Sauvignon, 2006, Pritchard Hill
Cabernet Sauvignon, 2006, Stag’s Leap Winery
Cabernet Sauvignon, 2005, Clos du val
Barrouge Bordeaux Bland, 2005, Barlow Vineyards
Robert’s Blend, 2005, Oakville Ranch
Pinot Noir, 2007, Cuvaison
Merlot, 2006, Grgich Hill Estate
Zinfandel, 2996, Grgich Hill estate
Syrah, 2006, Peju

For more information log on to www.napavintners.com

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Almost monthly, we read a new study about the health benefits of daily moderate red wine consumption. In particular, reseveratrols (a phenol found in red wines, but particularly in pinot noir and according to some in cabernet sauvignon), among other phenols, has been studied at length. Resverastrol was first discovered in 1950’s in Japan, and now American researchers and scientists are trying to produce it in form of a pill to prolong life.

The good doctor explains in great detail the benefits of red wine consumption and reseveratrols, but also stresses the fact most studies fail to point out. The amount of resveratrol that is needed on a daily basis, and that this phenol behaves differently when ingested in the form of a pill.
What he says is accurate, and extremely well said.
According to the good doctor, wine is food as the populations of most European wine producing countries have known for centuries, but in North America health authorities have never acknowledged the benefits of wine.
Wine is ideal for old people, and protects the brain, is a claim that is well substantiated in this gem of a book.
This book is about healthy living and gives sound, advice what to consume, how much, and the reasons for consuming wine.
What strikes me as a very curious is that long studies in Denmark established that wine drinkers are smarter than the average individual, but it does not establish whether smart people drink wine or wines makes them smart.
This book belongs on the shelf of every wine drinker, and even those who do not drink wine!

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Balbi, Syrah-Viognier, Tulum Valley 2009

This Syrah with a dash of Viognier is fresh and has lots of vibrant fruit and aromas of red cherry. High acidity, elegant structure with vibrant fresh red cherry fruit, well-balanced, elegant with good length.

La Legua Roble, Cigales 2007
The nose suggests bright and vibrant red cherry aromas. Well-balanced palate supported by complex red fruit characters and a firm structure; fresh and lively fruit on the finish; good depth.

Araldica Vini, Asda Extra Special, Barbera d’Asti 2007
Vibrant fruit with chewy red cherry fruit and an attractive perfume. Complex with vibrant fruit and lots of juicy characters, good length.

See the rest of the list at Decanter.com.

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This big, resource-rich South American country has been producing wine since the 16th century. The industry started shortly after Spanish conquistadors arrived and introduced Catholicism by building impressive cathedrals and churches. The clergy needed wine for communions and their daily diet.
Before 1980’s, Argentina produced huge quantities of wine, exported much of it in bulk, and consumed the rest. There was no pressing need to improve quality. Although the official language is Spanish, the majority of the European stock is Italian, and they like to drink a glass or two with their meals. Even children are given a glass of wine diluted with plenty of water. To an Argentine alcohol is a liquid to consume with a meal, and never abused to get intoxicated.
Wine quality was acceptable at best, and never reached levels of excellence worthy to export in bottle.
The industry was poorly organized; quality mattered little or not at all. The situation changed drastically in the 1980’s with foreign investments and enlightened approach by local wineries.
Young and promising winemakers were sent to Spain, Italy, Germany, and the U S A to study oenology, and related chemistry. New equipment including French and American oak barrels were purchased.
Truth in labelling also became important, and today, all verietal wines, destined to international markets, conform to international standards (i.e 75 per cent of variety stated on
the labels is in the blend, although some wineries routinely use 100 per cent).
Now Argentina ranks fifth in quantity produced behind France, Italy, Spain, and the U S A. Exports have grown by leaps and bounds. The U S A, Canada, and the United Kingdom are the best markets, as modern Argentinean wines represent good value.
The country has three main wine producing regions – Norte, Cuyo, and Patagonia), each of which contains several sub-regions.
Norte consists of Molinos, El Arenal and Cafayate, all in the province of Salta, and ranging in altitude between 1700 and 3000 metres. Valle de Fiambola is in Catamarca with vineyards located on 1700 metres above sea level. Norte is closest to the Equator, and by necessity, vineyards must be located on high altitudes.
Cuyo is the largest viticultural region, and located in the provinces of La Rioja, San Juan and Mendoza. It consists of 18 sub-regions- Vallee de Famartina (La Rioja), Valle del Pedernal, Valle de Tulum, Valle del Zonda, (all in San Juan); Norte, Este, Lujan, Maipu, Valle de Uco Centro, San Carlos and San Rafael (all in Mendoza). The altitudes of vineyards range from 700 to 1100 metres above sea level.
Patagonia, the farthest south and coolest of all regions has two sub-regions: San Patricio del Chanar, and Alto Valle del Rio Negro. The vineyard altitude varies between 200 – 300.
Argentina has a total of 245,000 hectares under vines. The country produces mostly red wines, but white wine production is increasing rapidly.
The most popular red grape varieties are: malbec, cabernet sauvignon, bonarda, syrah, tempranillo, merlot, tannat, and pinot noor.
For white wines, winemakers prefer chardonnay, chenin blanc, sauvignon blanc, torrents, viognier, tokay friulano, moscatel de Alejandria (Muscat d`Àlexandrie), ugni blanc (trebbiano) and semillon.
Of all red grape varieties malbec is the most popular, and internationally successful. Malbec comes in an array of styles ranging from juicy-fruity quaffers to refined wines of grace and elegance, to robust, potent wines suitable for steaks and game roasts. It goes very well with grilled and/or roasted choice beef cuts, i.e strip loin of beef, rib of beef, and tenderloin of beef.
Torrontes a native white grape evolved over centuries from imported vitis vinifera varieties, emanates floral aromas and is very appealing in its youth, but unfortunately does not age well It should be consumed within a year of harvest.
Before the “wine revolution”, huge wineries dominated the market. Today, many small and medium-sized, mostly family-owned, quality-oriented wineries are gaining market share both at home and in export markets.
Here are some red wines I recommend, although many small wineries produce outstanding white wines, but unfortunately they are unavailable in export markets, and if so in very small quantities.
Malbec, 2008, Altos Las Hormigos
Malbec, 207 Andean Vineyards
Malbec 2008 Chakana
Malbec 2006, Kaiked Ultra
Signature Malbec 2007 Dominio del Plata
Broquel Malbec 2006 Trapiche
Malbec 2006 Vina Lobos
Alegoria Gran Reserva Malbec 2006 Navarro Correas
Don David Reserva Malbec 2007 Michele Torino

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During recessions, people tend to trade down their gustatory pleasures. Less expensive foods are favoured over more refined and processed foods. Wine drinkers start buying less expensive products but don’t want to give up taste.
This provides an opportunity for wine producing countries that offer value wines. In such countries land is less expensive, labour abundant, and technology advanced.
Portugal is one such country. Located on the Iberian Peninsula, this small country has been producing wine well over 2000 years, and recently switched to modern wine making techniques. Modern Portuguese wines are fruity, well defined, offer a lot of taste, are east to enjoy, designed to complement food and above all value priced.
If you want low alcohol and fragrant white wines , go with vino verde, to match fish dishes, pastas, assorted cured meats and seafood based appetizers.
Regional wines are fine, and if you are fond of fortified sweet wines, Port and Madeira wines will please your palate.
Portugal has 11 delimited regions, each of which contains several sub-regions noted for their different characteristics.
Two decades ago, Portuguese winemakers and winery owners decided to use predominantly indigenous grape varieties, and occasionally supplement them, if at all, with international ones like cabernet sauvignon, chardonnay, sauvignon blanc, cabernet franc, and syrah just to name a few. A few wineries produce and market varietal wines derived exclusively from foreign grape varieties in an attempt to gain market share, as many in export markets are more apt to buy such wines with which they are familiar.
In fact since 2008, Portuguese wine sales worldwide have substantially increased.
The L. C. B. O. offers several fine Portuguese wines in its general list offerings, and frequently the Vintages division features excellent products at very reasonable cost, for example on November 21 release Frei Joao 2006 by Caves Joao, from Bairrada in northern Portugal. This full-bodied, fruity, well-balanced red wine with soft tannins drinks well now, but can be aged
for two to three years to become even more refined. It is easy to enjoy now, with meat-sauced pastas, medium-rare steaks, roast beef, stews, and with semi-hard or hard cheeses.
Frei Joao is highly recommended and represents good value.

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Columbia Crest Cabernet Sauvignon Columbia Valley Reserve 2005.
95 points / $27 5,000 cases made Washington

Columbia Crest, founded in 1978, is part of Ste. Michelle Wine Estates, which accounts for more than half the wine produced in Washington. The winery’s ability to combine quality and value has earned it 14 spots in our Top 100. But it has reached new heights this year.

Read more at WineSpectator.com

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Most people associate Brazil with snow-white, fine sand beaches, tropical scenery, exotic foods, maybe cachaca (sugarcane based distillate), but never with wine.
Yet Brazil is the third largest wine producing country in South America after Argentina and Chile. The country’s 200 wineries produce enough to cover the needs of the 120 million population, who average about two litres per annum. Brazilians prefer beer and liquor over wine, but as growing segment of the population appreciates wine as their favourite alcoholic beverage mainly in restaurants and also at dinner.
The wine was introduced as early as 1532 by the Portuguese in the Sao Paulo state, and by Jesuit missionaries in Rio Grande do Sul in 1626. Later, vineyards fell victim to neglect, and only after 1970’ started to revive again.
Most of the vineyards are located in the state of Bahia (8 degrees south of the Equator); Rio Grande do Sul (31 S) around Serra Gaucha at 700 metres of altitude, and Baje.
Bahia`s vineyards in the Sao Francisco Valley near Recife survive desert-like climate and must be irrigated, but yield ripe, luscious grapes, suitable for dry wines.
The vineyards in Rio Grande do Sul are exposed to precipitation towards the end of the growing season, hence grapes tend to be high in acidity, more suitable for sparkling wines that require carefully calibrated dosage to be palatable.
The climate of this huge country bordering 10 others varies greatly from north to south.
The first successful grape variety planted was Isabella, a North American hybrid that tolerates humidity, but never produces quality wine as western palates define it.
Today, wineries process to the extent possible, trebbiano, chardonnay, muscats, cabernet sauvignon, cabernet franc, merlot, petit syrah, gamay, touriga nacional, pinot noir, alfrocheiro, and tinta roriz a.k.a tempranillo in Spain.
Modern wineries and those with forward looking managements employ European wine consultants to produce wines of export quality.
Vineyard management was improved through the introduction of suitable canopy design and management, pruning, and irrigation when necessary. Yields have been reduced to obtain better quality fruit.
Recently I had an opportunity to taste a range of wines by Miolo, established in 1897 by Giacomo Miolo, an Italian immigrant from Genoa. Today, the winery owns and operates 600 hectares of vineyards in the states Rio Grande do Sul and Bahia.
Miolo Selection (a blend of chardonnay, riesling italico, and sauvignon blanc) offered apple and pear aromas, had an appealing colour, balanced taste and fine texture.

Terranova, cabernet sauvignon and shiraz, 2005, had a vibrant colour, deep flavour, and good grip, with a long aftertaste. Cellaring for two to three years recommended.

Lot 43, 1999, a Bordeaux blend of cabernet sauvignon, cabernet franc, and merlot was soft, velvety with a broad taste of ripe fruit, supported with oak flavours. A very pleasant wine to consume now with all types of meat dishes.

What is most pleasant with Miolo wines is the price. The export manager informed me that Miolo exports 1000 cases to the U S A monthly.
In Ontario Miolo wines must be imported privately through an agency (info”vi-howine.com) or vin-howine”rogers.com.

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Most people associate Thailand with exotic, fun-filled vacations, and fine food, but never wine. Yet Thailand produces wine and soon we may be able to buy them in North America. Located between latitudes 20 and 6 North, Thailand is a tropical country.
Every enophile knows that vines don’t like excessive heat and rain – both are prevalent in this beautiful East Asian country.
Wine was always imported, and usually from traditional, well-established countries – France, Italy, in the 1970’s Australians made inroads, and now New Zealand and the U S A have captured market share.
Canada’s ice wines sold well until the economy collapsed in the 1990’2 and then recovered somewhat to plunge again in the latest worldwide recessions.
The emergence of a burgeoning middle class has created an increasing taste and market for less expensive, i.e domestic wine. This prompted local entrepreneurs to invest in vineyards and wineries. Chateau de Loei is one of the first Thai wineries launched in 1991. Located in
the northern highlands bordering Laos vineyards were planted by a wealthy physician who actually owns a construction company and a hotel chain including the world famous Oriental hotel in Bangkok.
First chenin blanc and syrah were planed on 90 hectares. Other suitable grape varieties have been planted since for experimental purposes.
In Thailand due tot eh climate, vines produce twice a year. The first crop in February is the best to the dry and sunny weather. Vines start producing new leaves after harvest and bear a second crop during the rainy season. The second crop is of poor quality with low sugar levels and must be blended with other wines either imported or local.
Mold damages and kills many vines. Yet other wineries have been established- Pak Chong 180 km north of Bangkok in the foothills of Khoo Yai National Park, and Château de Shalawan 320 km north of Bangkok.
Thai cuisine is delicious but somewhat spicy, and to North American palates downright hot and spicy and logically white off-dry wines should be more popular, but the population wants soft, fruity red wines.
Presently, there is a shortage of red grapes and wineries import shiraz concentrate from Australia to complement the shortfall.
Expect to see more Thai wines in restaurants when you visit this exotic country, colourful country, with a friendly and happy population.

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Now in its 15th year, Toronto’s annual Wine and Food Expositio0n will take place November 19 – 22 at the Metro Toronto Convention Centre.
This year’s main sponsor is Vini Portugal. Many wineries of this small, but major wine producing country (Sixth by volume in the world) will be pouring their remarkable value wines
Wine and Food Expo has taken on the challenge to assemble a 15-member panel of wine writers, winemakers, sommeliers and other experts to select the best of what has been submitted for evaluation.
The wines have been categorized by variety i.e chardonnay, sauvignon blanc, cabernet franc, cabernet sauvignon, shiraz blends and other groups (bends of red wine, aromatic whites, dessert and fruit wines.
Those that have been awarded a medal will be on display and most of them available for tasting in various booths.
This feature alone would make a visit worthwhile. Entry fee is $ 20.00, and tickets for tasting are available for purchase.
In addition to taste there will be hundreds of wines, beers and spirits from all over the world. Those who wish to learn more about wine can register for tutorials staged by sommeliers, wine writers, and famous beverage personalities like Kevin Brauch.
If you prefer less expensive tutorials, you can enrol fro them when you are there. The International Wine Guild offers them.
This year many more restaurants will be participating and you can taste their signature dishes for a small fee to decide whether to visit the establishment of an evening’s dining experience.
Overall, Food and Wine Expo offers many opportunities to taste wines, beers and spirits, also to study wine paraphernalia (glasses, decanters, cork screws), learn how to mix Mott`s clamato cocktails, sample local cheeses, and restaurant signature plates, select wine magazines that provide many opportunities to read about regions, information, and recommendations.
For more information log on to
Foodandwineexpo.ca

Never miss a post! subscribe via RSS or subscribe via e-mail.   Post writer – Hrayr Berberoglu – E-mail – Read his books?