The landscape of Italy’s wine producing regions is always enchanting, but Tuscany’s vistas are unforgettable

The rolling hills of Tuscany are home to some of Italy’s most striking wines. Here, while change is accepted, tradition is respected and never forgotten. Tuscany’s fame rests on its red wines, although some fine white wines are also produced.

The wine regions of Tuscany from north to south are Chianti (Chianti Rufina, Chianti Colli Fiorentini, Colli Senesi, Chianti Classico are sub-regions), Vino nobile di Montepulciano, Bolgheri, Brunello di Montalcino, San Antimo, and Morellino di Scansano.

Chianti and Chianti classico at one time contained red and white grapes. In such blends, the wine was very light and had to be consumed quickly. These days, most wineries use sangiovese, with a little cabernet sauvignon, merlot, and practically no white grapes.

The wines are brilliant, fruity, satisfying, pending on their provenance, winery and price. Yet most Chianti are value-priced. Colli Fiorentini and Colli Senesi Chiantis represent unique and welcome variations.

In Chianti the following grape varieties are allowed – sangiovese, colorino, cabernet sauvignon, merlot, trebbiano, malvasia, canaiolo, and mammolo.

The best quality comes from vineyards located 400 – 500 metres above sea level.

Brunello di Montalcino must be produced using exclusively the grape variety called sangiovese grosso a.k.a brunello di Montalcino (the little brown one). The wine must be barrel and bottle aged for four years (two in barrel and two in bottle); riserva for five years.

Fine Brunello di Montalcino wines require longer aging, and reward this patience with finesse and flavour concentration but only if the wine is of good quality to start.

Maremma, located just south of the town of Grosetto stretches east to the Lake Bolsano. It is very large, much warmer than Chianti further north, and yields grapes that are fully ripe, thick skinned, and high in natural sugar. Maremma wines are relatively high in alcohol. The region is also known as Morellino di scansano.

Vino nobile die Montepulciano wines must contain a minimum of 70 per cent sangiovese, but most serious winemakers use 100 per cent. Regular wines must be aged for a minimum of two years in barrels, and riservas for three. The wines are deeply flavoured, age well and offer great pleasure with food or on their own.

Morellino di scansano or Maremma wines must contain 85 per cent sangiovese if labelled as D O C, but most wineries use 100 per cent. Maremma wines are high in alcohol, brimming with fruit and flavour.

Bolgheri on the coast, and Sant Antimo in the south of Montalcino are small regions, but produce fine wines using cabernet sauvignon, merlot, sangiovese, syrah or blends thereof. The law allows the use of other grape varieties for experimental purposes. These two up-and-coming regions offer fine wines at affordable prices.

Tuscany also makes a lot of IGT (indicazione geografica tipica) wines that use grape varieties not included in the list of permissible grapes. They can be delicious, and much less expensive than D O C or D O C G wines, and very refined.

Here are the highlights of a recent Tuscan wine tasting:

Saffredi, 2004, Fattoria le Pupille owned and operated by Elisabetta Geppetti, Maremma

Pasiteo Vino Nobile di Montepulciano, 2005, Fassati

Nearco, 2003, Col d’Orica, Sant’Antimo

Campomaccione Morellino di Scansano, 2006, Rocca delle Macie

Brunello di Montalcino, 2004, Leonardo da Vinci

Chianti Colli Fiorentini, 2006, Tenuta il Corno

Chianti Colli Senesi, 2007, La Castellaccia

Chianti Classico, 2006, Cenntaoio

Montesodi Chianti Rufina Riserva, 2005, Marchesi de Frescobaldi

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Just 20 kilometres south of Siena, Tuscany, and the hilly enclave of Montalcino, measures 16 Km. in diameter, and the eponymous town sits at its highest point. The medieval town appears sleepy and stuck in time, but not when it comes to wine; red wine in particular. Here, the now world-famous Brunello di Montalcino was born, and continues to thrive.
It is one of Italy’s best, and the best tasting red wine derived from a sangiovese clone; which happens to be Italy’s most popular red grape variety.
Montalcino is relatively isolated from the mainstream of wine trade and this may partially explain why this high-quality red wine remained obscure for a long time after Ferrucio Biondi-Santi discovered the clone with better flavour and physical attributes than regular sangiovese.
Brunello, literally translated, (the little brown one) yields wines that taste intense and layered and age very well. In fact there are still a few bottles of Brunello di Montalcino from the 19th century in the cellars of Biondi-Santi.
The wine remained relatively unknown both in Italy and abroad well into 1960’s.m Until Banfi, an American wine importer of Italian origin, decided to promote Brunello di Montalcino after establishing a large estate in the region. From then on, demand surged, partially because Banfi was successful in marketing the wine in the U S A. Only well-planned and funded promotional activity can succeed in the U. S.A. However, with fame and increased demand, the inevitable happens – prices start moving upwards.
By 2002 there were well over 70 producers of Brunello di Montalcino (more than ten times in the past 50 years), producing close to six million bottles, whereas in 1960 this number was 100,000.
In the 1960’s the Italian government promulgated wine laws. For Brunello di Montalcino, the minimum barrel aging was stipulated as 42 months, plus 12 months in the bottle.
Occasionally, the fruit fails to ripen fully. This happens infrequently in Montalcino. Such vintages are described as “mediocre” or “less successful”.
Grapes that are not fully ripe yield a wine that does not benefit from lengthy barrel aging. Thus, in 1990 the compulsory barrel aging was reduced to 36 months and 12 months in the bottle. The wine may be released five years from harvest date.
For riserva quality, one more year of aging is required. Some winemakers age their wines in 225 litre French (Allier and Vosges) barrels for a short time and make up the required ageing in the bottle. This keeps the wine vibrant.
A Brunello di Montalcino of a highly rated vintage requires at least ten years of cellaring before it sheds its youthfulness, then the flavours harmonize.
It is important to distinguish Brunello di Montalcino from Rosso di Montalcino, which is made from grapes that are grown by pruning less vigorously, hence increasing yield by one ton per hectare, and barrel aged only for six months and for an equal period in bottle. For Brunello di Montalcino the yield is eight tones per hectare. Needless to say, Rosso di Montalcino costs one-third of regular Brunello.
Here are now two styles – traditional, svelte model that ages well, yielding rich and opulent wines, and more fruity, concentrated, intense, and powerful versions with distinct cherry aromas. The latter pleases the nose and is full bodied on the mid-palate, which North Americans like.
Presently, 65 per cent of Brunello di Montalcino goes to the U S A, five to the United Kingdom, ten to Switzerland, and an equal amount to Germany. Canadian liquor control boards, mainly by the government owned Liquor Control Board of Ontario, purchase a small quantity.
In Europe, Swiss and Germans travel to Tuscany, even for a weekend, and visiting tourists are responsible for much of the sales.
The fortress of Montalcino is now both a museum and a wine shop, featuring local agricultural products namely pecorino Toscano cheese, honey, salumi and wines from all estates.
Many wineries, including Col d’Orcia, Altesino, and others, are involved with clonal selection research to determine the most suitable for the region. Meanwhile, the Biondi-Santi clone is declared a National heritage by the Italian government as clone 5 BBS.
Sangiovese is highly sensitive to its environment, thin-skinned, slow ripening, and prone to rot if it rains when the grapes are ripe. Brunello possesses the same characteristics and grows best in Montalcino, as the region is warmer and drier than further north in Tuscany. Over-cropping dilutes its flavour. 6 – 7,000 vines per hectare works best, with severe pruning to limit the yield to five to five-and-a-half tons per hectare, although legally eight tons are permitted.
In Montalcino, the soil is clay based with patches of galestro (crumbly marl-like soil). Clay based soils yield structurally strong wines, whereas those of galestro produce elegant and refined wines.
The best and richest wines emerge from the sun-baked vineyards south of Montalcino.
Biondi-Santi’s Il Greppo vineyard is located there.
Just outside of town is Fattoria dei Barbi, owned and managed by Donna Colombini-Cinelli. Her son is now in charge of day-to-day management of the property, in addition to another vineyard in Maremma closer to the Tyrrhenian Sea to the west.
Fattoria dei Barbi is well known for its cellar-worthy wines, particularly riserva quality. Fattoria dei Barbi’s wines are reasonably priced. The 400-hectare property produces cheese, wheat, sausages and ham. The on-site restaurant serves typical Tuscan fare, well worth experiencing.
Barrel aging has now become problematic. Previously, wineries employed botte (upright Slovenian oak barrel with a capacity of 75 hectolitres). Now winemakers are debating whether they should employ 25 hectolitre-botte, or use French oak (Allier or Nevers) with 225 litre capacity. Small barrels age the wine faster and impart strong oak flavours if maturation is prolonged. Then there is the question whether old barrels should be used (second or third year) as opposed to new ones for every vintage.
Of course, any winery can decide to sell Rosso di Montalcino after one six months of barrel aging, but the flavour difference is noticeable, as is the price.
Here are some of the most reputable Brunello di Montalcino wineries:
Fattoria dei Barbi, Biondi-Santi, Col d’Orcia, Marchesi Antinori, Argiano, Castello Banfi, Tentua Nuova, Ciacci Piccolomini d’Aragona, Val di Sugo, Siro Pacenti, Conti Constanti, Casa Nova delle Cerbaie, Fanti, Il Palazzone, Lisini, Salicutti Piaggione, Livio Sassetti, Silvio Nardi, Castelgiocondo, Casanovo di Neri, Tentimenti Angelini, Capanna, Marchesi di Frescobaldi, La Gerla, Poggio Antico, Romitorio, and Roberto Cosini.

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Just 20 kilometres south of Siena, Tuscany, the hilly enclave, the commune of Montalcino, measures 16 Km. in diameter with the eponymous town sitting at its highest point. The medieval town appears sleepy and stuck in time, but not when it comes to wine, red wine in particular. Here, the now world-famous Brunello di Montalcino was born, and continues to be produced.

It is one of Italy’s best, and the best tasting red wine derived from the sangiovese clone. Sangiovese is Italy’s most popular red grape variety.

Montalcino is relatively isolated from the mainstream of wine trade and this may partially explain why this high-quality red wine remained obscure long after Ferrucio Biondi-Santi discovered a clone of sangiovese with better flavour and physical attributes than regular vines.

Brunello, literally translated, (the little brown one) yields wines that taste great and age very well. In fact there are still a few bottles of Brunello di Montalcino from the 19th century in the cellars of Biondi-Santi.

But the wine remained relatively unknown both in Italy and abroad well into 1960’s, then Banfi, an American wine importer of Italian origin, decided to import and promote Brunello di Montalcino after establishing a large estate in the region. From then on, there has been a surge in demand, partially because Banfi was successful in marketing the wine in the U S A. No product can succeed in the U. S. A. without well planned and funded promotion activity. However, with fame and increased demand, the inevitable happens – prices start moving upwards.

By 2002 there were well over 70 producers of Brunello di Montalcino (more than ten times in the past 50 years), producing close to six million bottles, whereas in 1960 the number was 100,000.

In 1960 the Italian government promulgated wine laws. For Brunello di Montalcino, the minimum barrel aging was stipulated as 42 months, plus 12 months in the bottle.
Occasionally, the fruit fails to ripen fully. This happens infrequently in Montalcino. Such vintages are described as “mediocre” or l”less successful”.

Grapes that are not fully ripe yield a wine that does not benefit from lengthy barrel aging. Thus, in 1990 the compulsory barrel aging was reduced to 36 months and 12 months int eh bottle.

For riserva quality, one more year of aging is required. Some winemakers age their wines in 225 litre French (Allier and Vosges) barrels for a short time and make up the required ageing in the bottle. This keeps the wine vibrant. .

A Brunello di Montalcino of a highly rated vintage requires at least ten years of cellaring before it sheds its youthfulness, then the flavours harmonize.
It is important to distinguish Brunello di Montalcino from Rosso di Montalcino, which is made using brunello grapes, but barrel aged only for six months and an equal period in bottles. Needless to say, Rosso di Montalcino costs one-third of regular Brunello di Montalcino.

Here are now two styles – traditional, svelte model that ages well, yielding rich and opulent wines, and more fruity, concentrated, intense, and powerful versions with distinct cherry aromas. The latter pleases the nose and is full bodied on the mid-palate. North Americans prefer this version.

Presently, 65 per cent of Brunello di Montalcino goes to the U S A, five to the United Kingdom, ten to Switzerland, and an equal amount to Germany. Canadian liquor control boards, mainly by the government owned Liquor Control Board of Ontario, purchase a small quantity.

In Europe Swiss and Germans travel to Tuscany, even for a weekend, and visiting tourists are responsible for much of the sales.

The fortress of Montalcino is both a museum and a wine shop, featuring the products of all wineries and other agricultural products, namely pecorino Toscano, honey and salumi.

Many wineries, including Col d’Orcia, Altesino, and others, are involved with clonal selection research to determine the most suitable for the region. Meanwhile, the Bindi-Santi clone is declared a National heritage by the Italian government as clone 5 BBS.

Sangiovese is a difficult grape, highly sensitive to its environment, thin-skinned, slow ripening, and prone to rot if it rains when the grapes are ripe. Over-cropping sangiovese dilutes its flavour. 6 – 7,000 vines per hectare works best, with severe pruning to limit the yield to five to five-and-half tons per hectare.

In Montalcino, the soil is clay based with patches of galestro (crumbly marl-like soil). Clay based soils yield structurally strong wines, whereas those of galestro produce elegant and refined wines.

The best and richest wines emerge from the sun-baked vineyards south of Montalcino.
Biondi-Santi’s Il Greppo vineyard is located there.

Just outside of town is Fattoria dei Barbi, owned and managed by Donna Colombini-Cinelli. Her son is now in charge of day-to-day management of the property, in addition to another vineyard in Maremma closer to the Tyrrhenian Sea to the west.
Fattoria dei Barbi is well known for its cellar-worthy wines, particularly riserva quality that must be aged longer than regular Brunello di Montalcino.

Fattoria dei Barbi’s wines are reasonably priced. The 400-hectare property produces cheese, wheat, sausages and ham. The on-site restaurant serves typical Tuscan fare, well worth experiencing.

Barrel aging has now become problematic. Previously, wineries employed botte (upright Slovenian oak barrel with a capacity of 75 hectolitres). Now winemakers are debating whether they should employ 25 hectolitres botte, or use French oak (Allier or Nevers) with 225 litre capacity. Small barrels age the wine faster and impart strong oak flavours if maturation is prolonged. Then there is the question whether old barrels should be used (second or third year) as opposed to new for every vintage.
Of course, any winery can decide to sell Rosso di Montalcino after one year of barrel aging, but the flavour difference is noticeable, and so is the price.

Here are some of the most reputable Brunello di Montalcino wineries:
Fattoria dei Barbi, Biondi-Santi, Col dèOrcia, Marchesi Antinori, Argiano, Castello Banfi, Tentua Nuova, Ciacci, Piccolomini dèAragona, Val di Sugo, Siro Pacenti, Conti Constanti, Casa Nova delle Cerbaie, Fanti, Il Palazonne, Lisini, Salicutti Piaggione, Livio Sassetti, Silvio Nardi, Castelgiocondo, Casanovo di Neri, Tentimenti Anglini, Capanna, Frescobaldi, La Gerla, Poggio Antico, Roberto Cosini and Romitorio.

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Villa Cafaggio Chianti Classico Riserva 2004

Vineyard area: Perfectly placed in Panzano in the Conca d`Oro, the Villa Cafaggio estate has 40 ha of vineyards, 85% of which are planted with Sangiovese. Over the past 15 years a major re-planting program has taken place. Vine density has been increased to 5.100 vines per hectare, producing less than 1,5 kilos of grapes per vine. Vines which have now reached perfect maturity are being used to produce the Chianti Classico.

We have tasted this wine before, that is the 2000 vintage. Normally the 2004 should be better than the 2000, but this wine we did like the 2000 more.

The wine is full-bodied with tastes of cherry and plum and finish of with a nice oaky character.

Have you tasted this or another wine, you are welcome to add a dice/review in our wine guide
Winesworld.

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In our search for Norwegian links to the wine industry, I did stumble over the winepages to Italian Caiano. This winery is actually own by a Norwegian ( since 1997 ).

They make two kinds of Cianti:

Caiano Chianti Classico
The wine has a deep, almost ruby colour, smelling fresh and fruity, in good balance with integrated oak tones. It has the typical character of the grape Sangiovese. It stands long storage and will develop further for 2-4 years. The wine matches well among other things to grilled food, beef, pig, paste and fish, but can also be enjoyed just as it is. The Norwegians like very much Caiano Chianti Classico. The wine is sold at Vinmonopolet in Norway.

Caiano Chianti Classico Riserva
Deep red colour, fine fruitiness, with elements of dark plum, pleasant oak tones, good balance.

In addition to producing wine and olive oil, the vineyard offers both overnight stop and day visits.

The Terreno estate is situated in the heart of Tuscany in the Chianti Classico district. Since 1988, the Ruhne family from Stockholm run the estate. It comprises about 150 hectares out of which the vineyards take up 25 hectares.

The production includes red and white wines, Grappa, Vin Santo and an excellent extra virgin oil.
The Sangiovese grape is the major ingredient in the red wines. Three of the five reds are classed D.O.C.G. and may be bought a.o. at Systembolaget in Sweden.
Terreno Chianti Classico, Terreno Riserva, Terreno Riserva Lignanello.
There are holiday lets available both in separate dwellings and smaller flats. You are also most welcome to visit Terreno for a wine tasting. For groups of more than 10 this may be combined with a tour of the vineyard and wine cellar, perhaps followed by a simple lunch. There is also a farm shop.