This eastern Mediterranean country’s vitivinicultural history goes back 6000 years. This fertile region, located between latitudes 36 and 42 north, was home to a number of nations including ancient Greeks, Armenians, Kurds, Laz and as of the 14th century Turcic tribes from central Asia who had adopted Islam as their religion.
Quran, the Islamic holy book, forbids alcohol consumption, although originally the interpretation of the ulema (the learned people of Islam) considered moderate consumption to be permissible. Now most Quranic scholars believe alcohol consumption is forbidden.
The subjugation of the Christian population of Asia Minor by Ottoman Turks set back viticultural advances, but only partially, because rulers allowed minorities to practise their culture, but they had to pay considerably higher taxes.
Over time, the Christian and Jewish minorities emigrated to large and more cosmopolitan cities i.e Istanbul, Smyrna (Izmir today) and often to other countries; this in turn hampered winemaking.
Vineyard acreage was not affected as the new rulers liked to eat grapes. Today, Turkey has approximately 600 000 hectares of vineyards the vast majority of which grow table grapes. Much of the harvest is dried and sold as raisins. Turkey is the largest raisin producer of the world, and 40th of wine.
Researchers established some 600 –1200 grape varieties exist, but only 60 are grown commercially.
The country is large and the topography varied, the east part being high in altitude with extremely cold winters.
Thrace, the European part of Turkey, produces approximately 40 per cent of all wine grapes.
The Aegean Coast extending south of the Dardanelles to Denizli another 40 per cent.
Central Anatolia around Ankara, the capital, and Nevshehir produce approximately five per cent, the Black Sea Coast from Amasya to Ordu, the Mediterranean Coast from Antalya to Adana and south eastern region around Diyarbekir the remainder.
Although there are many indigenous vitis vinifer silvestris grape varieties planted , growers imported and cultivated internationally known varieties i.e cabernet sauvignon, shiraz, alicante bouchet, gamay, cinsault, clairette, chardonnay, riesling, vasilaki, and semillon.
Indigenous grape varieties are: adakarasi, papazkarasi, karalahana, okuzgozu, bogazkere, horozkarasi, kalecikkarasi, and dimrit.
White grapes are narince, yapincak, bornova misketi, emir, hasandede, kabarcik, and rumi.
Genrally, varieties were planted without taking terroir into consideration, ad hence, resulting wines are often unbalanced, or taste “weak”.
Recent advances in both vini-and viticulture have contributed to significant quality improvements.
Modern presses were imported; stainless steel containers installed, and European experts were hired to make wine.
In vineyards, modern pruning techniques were introduced and yields reduced, both of which resulted in quality improvements.
In general, Turkish wines are low in acidity and contain some residual sugar, rendering them less appealing to the western palate.
More importantly, retailers and many restaurant owners/operators lack the knowledge of handling and serving wine properly.
They refrigerate red wines, and store whites at room temperature often in excess of 20 C.
People outside of large cities, i.e Istanbul, Ankara, Izmir, Antalya, Adana, and Edirne have no interest in wine, and of course religious beliefs do not help the situation.
Surprisingly, a lot of people everywhere drink raki ( a.k.a ouzo in Greece, arrak in Arabic speaking countries) frequently, although it contains 40 and sometimes more per cent alcohol by volume.
There are a few larger wineries – Serafin, Doluca, and Kavaklidere and a few small ones. Their distribution network is limited at best.
Much oft the wine consumed in the country is by tourists
(approximately four and a half million visit the country annually) and by intellectuals ands the minorities, consisting of Greeks, Armenians and Jews.
The better wines are red, although white and sparkling wines are also produced.
The best wineries are:
Buyulubag, Sea of Marmara
Corus, Bozcaada
Doluca, Ankara
Sarafin Winery
Guler, Tharce
Kavaklidere, Ankara
Kayra
Melen Sevilen group, Aegean Coast
 |
Never miss a post! subscribe via RSS or subscribe via e-mail. Post writer – Hrayr Berberoglu – E-mail – Read his books? Professor B offers seminars to companies and interested parties on any category of wine, chocolates, chocolates and wine, olive oils, vinegars and dressings, at a reasonable cost. |
