In Old World wine producing countries the concept of co-operatives has been a driving force for centuries. The necessity for the co-operative movement stems from the fact that many growers own very small properties, some as small as one hectare, some even smaller, and none more than five hectares. The quantities of harvest are anywhere from miniscule to small, and often growers lack winemaking knowledge.

Very few have the financial means to buy equipment, cerate a winery, and market their wines.

This led to co-operatives where hundreds of farmers pool capital with help from local or provincial governments, start a fully equipped winery including properly trained winemaker(s), marketing professionals, and other essential employees.

Growers are assured a source buy their grapes at market prices, but only if the quality standards set are met.

France, Germany, Spain, Italy and Portugal have many government supported co-operative wineries.

Most are large and produce huge quantities of wine. A portion of the production may be sold in bulk to other wineries or shippers, and now there is a movement afoot to make more upscale wines in an attempt to capture a larger market share and increase exports.

In North America wine co-operatives never worked well, in fact, in the U S A there is none, and in Ontario there was one which went bankrupt after two years simply because members never understood that inferior quality grapes cannot yield drinkable wine and insisted that the co-operative buys their crop.

There was from the beginning, no fruit quality standards established and the winery management proved to be incapable to resist the insistence of growers to accept their poor quality grapes. It seems North American mentality is the “freedom” to be able to make financial choices.

Recently, a co-operative winery association from Portugal consisting of 27 wineries called A9, was in Toronto to showcase their wines.

There were approximately 70 wines from seven member wineries.

The following were the highlights of the tasting:

Via Latina Alvarinho Vino Verde, 2008, Vercoope

Vinted exclusively using alvarinho (albarino in Spanish), this fragrant, acid-driven, medium-bodied wine offers pleasant fruitiness, and long aftertaste.

88/100

Selected Harvest, 2009, Adega de Pegoes, Setubal

Composed of chardonnay, arinto and antao vaz grapes, this full bodied, aromatic, smooth, and elegant wine would be fine as an aperitif with hors d’eouvre, pan fired fillets of white-fleshed fish, pastas, sautéed chicken breast, and shrimp win tomato sauce

89/100

Touriga Nacional, 2008, Adega de Pegoes, Setubal

One of the best red wine grapes of Portugal touriga nacional smells of ripe blackberries is dark, and well extracted. The mid-palate boasts layers of flavours including chocolate. Powerful and long aftertaste. Good for beef- and game stews, and aged cheeses.

89/100

Aragones, 2008, Adega de Pegoes, Setubal

Aragones a.k.a tempranillao in Spain grows well in Setubal’s warm growing season. Aromas of ripe berries waft out of the glass, followed by a full body and satisfying aftertaste.

88/100

Touriga Nacional, 2008, Caves Santa Marta, Douro Valley

This is one of the larger co-operatives of the Douro Valley producing approximately 10 per cent of all the wine output of the region.
Ruby red, fruity, well balanced, full-bodied, velvety, and with a long finish. Best with foods of substance like med-rare grilled steaks, roast leg of lamb or grilled lamb chops.

89/100

CSM 59, 2005, Caves Santa Marta, Douro Valley

A profound wine with aromas of vanilla, roasted coffee beans, full-body, and chocolate falvour. Powerful and lingering finish

89/100

Moscatel 10 year old, Adega Cooperativa de Favaois, Douro Valley

Muscat grapes thrive in the heat of the Douro Valley. This Muscat smells of raisins, has a sweet but well balanced taste with a fine and pleasant finish. Recommended with ginger-infused fresh fruit salads.

89/100

Tawny Port, Caves Santa Marta, Douro Valley

Composed of tinta roriz, tinta francesa, and tinta barroca, this complex tawny offers ample ripe fruit aromas and powerful flavour. Spicy but elegant with a clean and long finish.

88/100

Never miss a post! subscribe via RSS or subscribe via e-mail. Post writer – Hrayr Berberoglu – E-mail – Read his books?   Professor B offers seminars to companies and interested parties on any category of wine, chocolates, chocolates and wine, olive oils, vinegars and dressings, at a reasonable cost.

Under the Roman Empire, Portugal was known as Lusitania (from Losus, son of Bacchus, the Roman god of wine). Before Romans, trading Phoenicians from eastern Mediterranean had introduced wine to the indigenous population.
Moors, a North African Muslim tribe occupied the country from 711 to 1249, but kept vineyards, since the rulers liked to enjoy grapes. They were tolerant of the population to make and drink wine.

After Spain granted independence to Portugal in 1668, the country allied with England, which rekindled exports that grew considerably in the beginning of the 18^th century. Port wines represented the biggest increase in exports.

More than 300 grape varieties are planted, many of which are indigenous.

Main varieties in red: aragonez or tinta roriz (tempranillo in Spain), baga, castelao, touriga nacional, touriga franca, and trincadeira (tinta amarela). Of late more and more growers are planting cabernet sauvignon, syrah, and other internationally known varieties. Touriga nacional is the most popular of all red varieties.

For whites, growers plant: fernao pires, alvarinho (albarino in Spain), arinto, encruzado, loureiro. Chardonnay, sauvignon blanc, semillon are being planted in increasing amounts.

In the past, most Portuguese table wines were barrel aged for too long. Many had lost their fruit fully, and others were oxidized, with the notable exceptions of ports and Madeira wines. This is no longer the case. Modern wines display vibrant fruit. Reds are balanced and to some extent fruit-driven to appeal to younger drinkers in export markets.

Portugal has more 220 000 hectares of vineyards and ranks 8^th on quantity in the world. Considering the fact that vineyard acreage represents three per cent of world’s total, this is remarkable.

Of the seven-and-a-half millions hectolitres, 70 per cent are reds. Much of the wine is consumed within the country (locals and tourists), but to the U S A, France, Angola, the Untied Kingdom, and Canada exports are increasing rapidly

Under the current appellation system, Denominacao de origem controlada created in 1990 that defined boundaries for each of the 12 regions.

The listing below runs north to south:

Minho, Tras os montes, Douro ports, Douro table wines, Beiras, Estremadura, Ribatejo, Alentejo, Terras de Sado, Algarve, Azores, and Madeira.

Minho in the north is famous for its light and crisp vinho verde, which has a different taste pending on the main grape variety predominant in the, blend. There is also a red vinho verde popular in the region.

Tras-os-Montes (beyond the mountains) is the most rugged of all regions and now produces remarkable red wines of finesse and power. The Douro Valley, on both banks of this mighty river that enters Portugal from Spain, is home to two distinct classifications – fortified wines, better known as ports, and table wines, which are now becoming more and more popular. The valley is divided into three sub-regions lower Douro, Middle Douro (Baixo), and Alto Douro, close to the Spanish border.

Beiras includes the appellations of Dao, Bairrada, and Tavora Varoso. Bairrada is famous for its baga grape based, tannic wines. Sparkling wines are also produced in this region.

Dao produces remarkable fruity, and acid-driven white wines from the enzcruzado grapes which age well and if cellared sufficiently long (two or three years) develop complexity.

Estremadura along the Atlantic coast and south of the famous university town of Coimbra has the following appellations – Alenquer, Arruda, Bucelas, Carcavelos, Colares, Lourinha, Obidos and Torres vedras. Here cabernet sauvignon, merlot, and chardonnay thrive amongst indigenous varieties.

Ribatejo stretching north and south from the city of Santarem is relatively flat, and most of the wines produced there were sold in bulk. Now, large and modern wine estates dominate the scene and produce fine wines that are marketed all over Europe and North America.

Alentejo, 120 km. east of Lisbon, is home to huge wine estates, cork trees, and olive groves. Here vineyards, planted scientifically according to terroir, yield fine fruit, which is vinified using modern technology and equipment. Appealing, full-bodied and fruit-driven red and white wines are now produced and exported.

Terras de Sado, located south of Lisbon and along the Atlantic Coast is home to two appellations – Palmela and Setubal.

Moscatel de Setubal, a fortified sweet wine made using Muscat grapes, smells floral and fruity and ages well. Palmela wines made using castelao grapes taste fine with local fare and light meat dishes, including pastas and pizzas.

Algarve located in the south of the country covers the appellations Lagos, Portimao, Lagoa, and Tavira. The wines are soft and fruit. All should be enjoyed within a year or two of vintage year.

Azores consists of nine small islands in mid-Atlantic. Mainland settlers planted the first vineyards in the 15^th century. Some fortified and light dry white wines are produced for local and tourist consumption.

Madeira, located 1000 km from the Portuguese mainland is best known for its fortified wines. Some wineries are now making dry table wines (Madeirense) to take advantage of demand and use fruit unsuitable for fortified wine.

In the past two decades, there has been a revival in the wine industry, mainly with considerable contributions of the European Union head office in Brussels in the form of research grants.

Portuguese wineries have used these funds to their advantage for training, investment in modern equipment and research.

Today, at all price points, the wines are undervalued, yet the finest examples can compete with the best anywhere.

Portugal is quickly becoming one of Europe’s top wine destinations, and its wines are gaining the preference of young and old wine drinkers.

ALENTEJO The undulating Alentejo plains south and east of Lisbon cover a third of mainland Portugal and most of the country south of the river Tagus.  In complete contrast to the north, this is a sparsely populated region where cereal farms stretch as far as the eye can see.  Over the last 20 years the Alentejo region has emerged as an important winemaking area and more recently Cooperatives and single estates have worked hard to modernize both the vineyards and the wineries.  The winemaking potential of the Alentejo is finally being realized with demand for vineyards far exceeding supply resulting in the highest prices per hectare in Portugal.

Grape varieties: The production of red wine, principally from Aragonez, Trincadeira, Moreto and Castelao grapes, exceeds white, although some growers are realizing the potential of white varieties such as Antao Vaz, Roupeiro and Perrum.

BEIRAS Occupying the central part of Portugal, this vast land of forests is home to some of the most interesting wines in Portugal.  The climate and landscape is varied; the local dishes too – from light grilled fish and seafood to heavy lamb stews.  And there is a range of wines to suit every palate and dish.  With its ever-changing landscapes and charming towns, Beiras is where the DOCs of Bairrada and Dao are located.

BAIRRADA Bairrada is an area of agricultural smallholdings.  Cereals, beans and vines thrive in between clumps of eucalyptus on the heavy but fertile clay soils.  There are a number of cooperatives in the region but an increasing number of independent producers are springing up.

Grapes Varieties: Bairrada is unusual in Portugal in that it is almost a one-grape region.  Over 80 per cent of the wines are red, made principally from the Baga vine.  Baga is the native grape of the Bairrada region.  With care it is possible to squeeze all of the juicy character into the bottle without bringing out its aggressive side.  White grapes, mostly Maria Gomes and Bical are grown to produce traditional method sparkling wines.

DAO Locked in three sides by high granite mountains and sheltered from the Atlantic, it benefits from long warm summers, cool nights and abundant winter rainfall.  The sandy soils are well drained and the vineyards are stocked with a wealth of indigenous grape varieties.

Grape varieties: Over two-thirds of D5o wines are red and made from anything up to nine different authorized grapes.  Touriga Nacional must account for at least 20 per cent of any one wine.  The other grapes permitted to make up the remainder are Jaen, Tinta Pinheira, Alfrocheiro Preto and Tinta Roriz and the rather unfortunately named Bastardo.

Young fresh fragrant white wines come from the Encruzado variety, which can be blended with varieties such as Assario Branco and Bical.

DOURO Probably most famous as the source of the famous fortified wine port, although the Douro DOC is increasingly well known for the production of unfortified table wine.

The Douro Valley was demarcated in 1756 making it one of the oldest delimited wine regions in the world.  The boundaries have since been modified but the irregular outline corresponds closely with an outcrop of pre-Cambrian schist.  Hemmed in by granite, this schist runs either side of the river for nearly 100 km from the Spanish frontier to the west.

Table wines are not new to the Douro.  Until the early part of the 18th century, most of the wine exported from the region was fermented dry and shipped without the addition of spirit.  With the huge investment in both skills and equipment that are necessary to make table wine in the extreme Douro climate we now find an area which has established itself as one of Portugal’s finest and most admired wine producing regions.

Grapes varieties: The grape varieties used in making Douro table wines are similar to those used to produce port.  More than 90 different grapes being permitted of which some of the most popular varieties include Touriga Franca, Touriga Nacional and Tinta Roriz (Tempranillo).  Rabigato, Gouveio, and Viosinho are some of the white grape varieties used in the region.

ESTREMADURA is a relatively narrow strip of hilly land lying between the Tagus River and the Atlantic Ocean about 60 miles long and 40 miles wide.  This region is characterised by its gentle rolling hills where the colour green predominates.  Located north of Lisbon, it is known as The Vegetable Garden of Lisbon.  It contains the DOC regions of Torres Vedras in the west, Arruda in the east and Alenquer in the centre.  The climate dictates the styles of wine produced in these three areas, since the vineyards closest to the Atlantic are subject to wetter and more moderate conditions and thus produce lighter, less alcoholic wines, while the vines planted further inland give stronger an fruitier wines.

Grape varieties: For red wines Castelao, Tinta Miuda, Trincadeira and for white Arinto, Vital and Fernao Pires.

RIBATEJO is one of the wealthiest parts of rural Portugal.  The swollen river naturally irrigates vines planted on the flood plain most winters yielding abundant harvests.   Soils are poorer on the stretch alongside the left bank of the Tagus down to Alentejo.

The percentage volume of alcohol of the wine produced in this region is high as a result of the grapes’ exposure to the sun, which reflects on the white sands where the vine grows.

Grape Varieties: a number of varieties can be found in this region, not only indigenous but also international.  Fernao Pires, Arinto and Talia are the favoured white grapes while Castel5o Franc6s, Alfrocheiro, Trincadeira, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Syrah produce a wide variety of red wines.

TERRAS DO SADO is the name of the river, which cuts through this vast plain, sandy region with its mild winters and very hot summers.  The region is famous for its beautiful beaches and fishing villages, as well as its natural parks, laid down around the Sado and Tagus estuary and the Arrabida Mountain.  This area is renowned for its Muscat and Castel5o Franc6s grape varieties, producing very concentrated, fruity wines, recommended for drinking with food because of their strong tannins.  However, some of the new wines from this area, recently introduced into the market, are in contrast soft, and perfect for drinking before and after meals.  The region is also famous for its Moscatel fortified wines, an ideal complement to cakes and sweet desserts, as well as a digestive drink.

Palmela is the larger of the two distinct wine regions on the Set6bal peninsula.  Low yielding vineyards on the north-facing clay and limestone slopes have traditionally produced the best wines, whilst those on the fertile, sandy plain extending eastwards from the fortress town of Palmela have always been more productive.

Grape varieties: The most important grape of the region is the versatile red Castelao Frances (nick-named Periquita), which is used to make red, ros6 and sparkling wines.  Espadeiro and Monvedro are also grown, but imported varieties such as Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot are gaining in popularity.  Apart from the Muscat of Alexandria (see below) Arinto and Esgana are the most significant white varieties.  Chardonnay, Riesling and Gewurztraminer are also grown successfully.

VINHO VERDE It is the white wine from this region that is most often seen around the world.  It is Portugal’s largest demarcated wine region, extending from Vale da Cambra south of the river Douro to the river Minho that forms the frontier with Spain.  It officially divides into six sub-regions, distinguished by climatic differences and the white grape varieties grown there.

Within this region you will find some of the oldest manor houses and noble families in the country dating back to the 11th and 12th centuries.  The region is punctuated by a

patchwork of farms and estates, producing a wide variety of agricultural products including grapes.  Vinho Verde is famous for its landscape of evergreen mountains and valleys, with mild winters and warm pleasant summers.  A region steeped in history, where wine has always played a major role as the best companion for the local fresh fish, meat, poultry and homegrown vegetables.

Grape varieties: Alvarinho, a prestigious variety that produces one of the best but least typical Vinhos Verdes.  Alcohol levels can be up to 13% and the wines are notably age-worthy.  Loureiro, Trajadura and Pedern5 all grow in the Vinho Verde DOC around the towns of Braga, Barcelos and Guimar5es.  These high-yielding vines produce wines that are light and fresh, typically with an alcoholic strength of between 8 and 10%.  Avesso is an important variety grown around the town of Bai5o in the Vinho Verde producing a slightly fuller style of wine.

The most popular grape varieties of Portugal:

White

Alvarinho Produces medium to full-bodied dry, crisp, aromatic wines with notes of peach, citrus, and apple.

Arinto produces dry, tangy wines with refreshing acidity, plenty of citrus fruit, some apple and mineral aromas.

Fernao Pires Characterised by floral aromas, apple, citrus notat and moderate acidity.

Red:

Aragones A highly regarded variety, rich in tannins that produces fruity (redcurrant, cherry, raspberry), dark and aromatic wines.

Castelao Young wines from this grape often have notes of raspberry and redcurrant, maturing with time to develop a warmer, smoother, more tarry character.

Touriga Nacional The wines are often aromatic, bursting with dark berry fruits yet often with floral notes of violets and rockrose pine, eucalyptus and herbs on the nose, plus the potential to age extremely well.

Trincadeira Produces rich and powerful dry reds with blackcurrant fruit, wild flowers and green herb notes.

IMPORTANT NOTE:

Portuguese Trade Commission in Toronto and leading wineries stage an annual tasting in Toronto.

This year, the following wines stood out:

Quinta de Vale, 2008, van Zeller, Douro Valley

The Douro Valley, log famous for its fortified sweet red wines, is now producing increasingly more dry table wines of note. Van Zeller was for a long time the manger and winemakers of the famed Quinta do Noval, arguably the best port winery. Since he departed from Quinta do Noval , he started his new estate. This is an impressive, deeply flavoured and nuanced wine. 90/100

Herdade de Grais, 2008, Alentejo

This southern Portuguese region 120 km. East of Lisbon is relatively new, but managed to produce excellent red wiens using modern viti-and vinicultural technologies. Herdade de Grais is dark red, viscous, full-bodied, fruity and powerful.

92/100

Herdade Sobroso, 2009

This small quality-oriented estate uses only fruit grown on its own vineyards and sorts the harvest twice to ensure that only perfectly ripe fruit is crushed and pressed.

Impeccably made, a flavourful and balanced wine that would complement beef stews, medium-rare grilled steaks and hard cheeses/

92/100

Quinta do Infantado, 2007, Douro Valley

This is an outstanding wines with pedigree. Deeply flavoured, spicy, balanced with a long aftertaste.

92/100

Madeira:

Portuguese explorers in discovered the 15ht century this island in the middle of the Atlantic Ocean. It is still being administered by Lisbon.

Henriques e Henriques (H & H) is one of the oldest, if not the best of Madeira wineries and shippers.

Harvest 1998 is a unique blend of grapes from the vintage 1998. Generally, Madeira wines are not vintage dated, except some high-end varietals.

This is an extremely well balanced, superbly crafted wine that would be excellent freshly roasted unsalted nuts, clear soups, with chicken cooked in cream sauces, and hard cheeses.

93/100

Vino Verde, 2008, Follies

The region north oft eh Douro Valley is cool and gets a lot of rain. The wines are always light, fragrant, and low in alcohol and acid driven. Ideal with grilled fresh sardines and other rich foods.

Fragrant, and delicate, this particular version is well worth trying.

90/100

Viognier, 2008, Valle de Algaro

Viognier is an indigenous variety of the Rhone valley, but has found a second home in Portugal’s hot climate.

This wine shows characteristic peah and apricot aromas, is smooth and delicate. Ideal for sipping and with delicate light-textured foods.

90/100

Sweet wine:

Quinta das Lamelas 10 year old white port

White port wines range from off dry to very sweet. This sweet 10-year-old port is composed of malvasia, codega and gouveio grapes. It has an old gold colour with aromas of dried stone fruits, nuts and figs. It is full bodied with a compelling and long aftertaste. This excellent wine would be suitable with fruit based desserts, as a pick-me-up at 4 p.m or simply for sipping. Serve at 14 C to enjoy this delicious wine at its best.

It comes in 500 ml bottles and would yield for adequate servings.

Never miss a post! subscribe via RSS or subscribe via e-mail.   Post writer – Hrayr Berberoglu – E-mail – Read his books?

Under the Roman Empire, Portugal was known as Lusitania (from Losus, son of Bacchus, the Roman god of wine). Before Romans, trading Phoenicians from eastern Mediterranean had introduced wine to the indigenous population.
Moors, a North African Muslim tribe occupied the country from 711 to 1249, but kept vineyards, since the rulers liked to enjoy grapes. They were tolerant of the population to make and drink wine.

After Spain granted independence to Portugal in 1668, the country allied with England, which rekindled exports that grew considerably in the beginning of the 18^th century. Port wines represented the biggest increase in exports.

More than 300 grape varieties are planted, many of which are indigenous.

Main varieties in red: aragonez or tinta roriz (tempranillo in Spain), baga, castelao, touriga nacional, touriga franca, and trincadeira (tinta amarela). Of late more and more growers are planting cabernet sauvignon, syrah, and other internationally known varieties. Touriga nacional is the most popular of all red varieties.

For whites, growers plant: fernao pires, alvarinho (albarino in Spain), arinto, encruzado, loureiro. Chardonnay, sauvignon blanc, semillon are being planted in increasing amounts.

In the past, most Portuguese table wines were barrel aged for too long. Many had lost their fruit fully, and others were oxidized, with the notable exceptions of ports and Madeira wines. This is no longer the case. Modern wines display vibrant fruit. Reds are balanced and to some extent fruit-driven to appeal to younger drinkers in export markets.

Portugal has more 220 000 hectares of vineyards and ranks 8^th on quantity in the world. Considering the fact that vineyard acreage represents three per cent of world’s total, this is remarkable.

Of the seven-and-a-half millions hectolitres, 70 per cent are reds. Much of the wine is consumed within the country (locals and tourists), but to the U S A, France, Angola, the Untied Kingdom, and Canada exports are increasing rapidly

Under the current appellation system, Denominacao de origem controlada created in 1990 that defined boundaries for each of the 12 regions.

The listing below runs north to south:

Minho, Tras os montes, Douro ports, Douro table wines, Beiras, Estremadura, Ribatejo, Alentejo, Terras de Sado, Algarve, Azores, and Madeira.

Minho in the north is famous for its light and crisp vinho verde, which has a different taste pending on the main grape variety predominant in the, blend. There is also a red vinho verde popular in the region.

Tras-os-Montes (beyond the mountains) is the most rugged of all regions and now produces remarkable red wines of finesse and power. The Douro Valley, on both banks of this mighty river that enters Portugal from Spain, is home to two distinct classifications – fortified wines, better known as ports, and table wines, which are now becoming more and more popular. The valley is divided into three sub-regions lower Douro, Middle Douro (Baixo), and Alto Douro, close to the Spanish border.

Beiras includes the appellations of Dao, Bairrada, and Tavora Varoso. Bairrada is famous for its baga grape based, tannic wines. Sparkling wines are also produced in this region.

Dao produces remarkable fruity, and acid-driven white wines from the enzcruzado grapes which age well and if cellared sufficiently long (two or three years) develop complexity.

Estremadura along the Atlantic coast and south of the famous university town of Coimbra has the following appellations – Alenquer, Arruda, Bucelas, Carcavelos, Colares, Lourinha, Obidos and Torres vedras. Here cabernet sauvignon, merlot, and chardonnay thrive amongst indigenous varieties.

Ribatejo stretching north and south from the city of Santarem is relatively flat, and most of the wines produced there were sold in bulk. Now, large and modern wine estates dominate the scene and produce fine wines that are marketed all over Europe and North America.

Alentejo, 120 km. east of Lisbon, is home to huge wine estates, cork trees, and olive groves. Here vineyards, planted scientifically according to terroir, yield fine fruit, which is vinified using modern technology and equipment. Appealing, full-bodied and fruit-driven red and white wines are now produced and exported.

Terras de Sado, located south of Lisbon and along the Atlantic Coast is home to two appellations – Palmela and Setubal.

Moscatel de Setubal, a fortified sweet wine made using Muscat grapes, smells floral and fruity and ages well. Palmela wines made using castelao grapes taste fine with local fare and light meat dishes, including pastas and pizzas.

Algarve located in the south of the country covers the appellations Lagos, Portimao, Lagoa, and Tavira. The wines are soft and fruit. All should be enjoyed within a year or two of vintage year.

Azores consists of nine small islands in mid-Atlantic. Mainland settlers planted the first vineyards in the 15^th century. Some fortified and light dry white wines are produced for local and tourist consumption.

Madeira, located 1000 km from the Portuguese mainland is best known for its fortified wines. Some wineries are now making dry table wines (Madeirense) to take advantage of demand and use fruit unsuitable for fortified wine.

In the past two decades, there has been a revival in the wine industry, mainly with considerable contributions of the European Union head office in Brussels in the form of research grants.

Portuguese wineries have used these funds to their advantage for training, investment in modern equipment and research.

Today, at all price points, the wines are undervalued, yet the finest examples can compete with the best anywhere.

Portugal is quickly becoming one of Europe’s top wine destinations, and its wines are gaining the preference of young and old wine drinkers.

ALENTEJO The undulating Alentejo plains south and east of Lisbon cover a third of mainland Portugal and most of the country south of the river Tagus.  In complete contrast to the north, this is a sparsely populated region where cereal farms stretch as far as the eye can see.  Over the last 20 years the Alentejo region has emerged as an important winemaking area and more recently Cooperatives and single estates have worked hard to modernize both the vineyards and the wineries.  The winemaking potential of the Alentejo is finally being realized with demand for vineyards far exceeding supply resulting in the highest prices per hectare in Portugal.

Grape varieties: The production of red wine, principally from Aragonez, Trincadeira, Moreto and Castelao grapes, exceeds white, although some growers are realizing the potential of white varieties such as Antao Vaz, Roupeiro and Perrum.

BEIRAS Occupying the central part of Portugal, this vast land of forests is home to some of the most interesting wines in Portugal.  The climate and landscape is varied; the local dishes too – from light grilled fish and seafood to heavy lamb stews.  And there is a range of wines to suit every palate and dish.  With its ever-changing landscapes and charming towns, Beiras is where the DOCs of Bairrada and Dao are located.

BAIRRADA Bairrada is an area of agricultural smallholdings.  Cereals, beans and vines thrive in between clumps of eucalyptus on the heavy but fertile clay soils.  There are a number of cooperatives in the region but an increasing number of independent producers are springing up.

Grapes Varieties: Bairrada is unusual in Portugal in that it is almost a one-grape region.  Over 80 per cent of the wines are red, made principally from the Baga vine.  Baga is the native grape of the Bairrada region.  With care it is possible to squeeze all of the juicy character into the bottle without bringing out its aggressive side.  White grapes, mostly Maria Gomes and Bical are grown to produce traditional method sparkling wines.

DAO Locked in three sides by high granite mountains and sheltered from the Atlantic, it benefits from long warm summers, cool nights and abundant winter rainfall.  The sandy soils are well drained and the vineyards are stocked with a wealth of indigenous grape varieties.

Grape varieties: Over two-thirds of D5o wines are red and made from anything up to nine different authorized grapes.  Touriga Nacional must account for at least 20 per cent of any one wine.  The other grapes permitted to make up the remainder are Jaen, Tinta Pinheira, Alfrocheiro Preto and Tinta Roriz and the rather unfortunately named Bastardo.

Young fresh fragrant white wines come from the Encruzado variety, which can be blended with varieties such as Assario Branco and Bical.

DOURO Probably most famous as the source of the famous fortified wine port, although the Douro DOC is increasingly well known for the production of unfortified table wine.

The Douro Valley was demarcated in 1756 making it one of the oldest delimited wine regions in the world.  The boundaries have since been modified but the irregular outline corresponds closely with an outcrop of pre-Cambrian schist.  Hemmed in by granite, this schist runs either side of the river for nearly 100 km from the Spanish frontier to the west.

Table wines are not new to the Douro.  Until the early part of the 18th century, most of the wine exported from the region was fermented dry and shipped without the addition of spirit.  With the huge investment in both skills and equipment that are necessary to make table wine in the extreme Douro climate we now find an area which has established itself as one of Portugal’s finest and most admired wine producing regions.

Grapes varieties: The grape varieties used in making Douro table wines are similar to those used to produce port.  More than 90 different grapes being permitted of which some of the most popular varieties include Touriga Franca, Touriga Nacional and Tinta Roriz (Tempranillo).  Rabigato, Gouveio, and Viosinho are some of the white grape varieties used in the region.

ESTREMADURA is a relatively narrow strip of hilly land lying between the Tagus River and the Atlantic Ocean about 60 miles long and 40 miles wide.  This region is characterised by its gentle rolling hills where the colour green predominates.  Located north of Lisbon, it is known as The Vegetable Garden of Lisbon.  It contains the DOC regions of Torres Vedras in the west, Arruda in the east and Alenquer in the centre.  The climate dictates the styles of wine produced in these three areas, since the vineyards closest to the Atlantic are subject to wetter and more moderate conditions and thus produce lighter, less alcoholic wines, while the vines planted further inland give stronger an fruitier wines.

Grape varieties: For red wines Castelao, Tinta Miuda, Trincadeira and for white Arinto, Vital and Fernao Pires.

RIBATEJO is one of the wealthiest parts of rural Portugal.  The swollen river naturally irrigates vines planted on the flood plain most winters yielding abundant harvests.   Soils are poorer on the stretch alongside the left bank of the Tagus down to Alentejo.

The percentage volume of alcohol of the wine produced in this region is high as a result of the grapes’ exposure to the sun, which reflects on the white sands where the vine grows.

Grape Varieties: a number of varieties can be found in this region, not only indigenous but also international.  Fernao Pires, Arinto and Talia are the favoured white grapes while Castel5o Franc6s, Alfrocheiro, Trincadeira, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Syrah produce a wide variety of red wines.

TERRAS DO SADO is the name of the river, which cuts through this vast plain, sandy region with its mild winters and very hot summers.  The region is famous for its beautiful beaches and fishing villages, as well as its natural parks, laid down around the Sado and Tagus estuary and the Arrabida Mountain.  This area is renowned for its Muscat and Castel5o Franc6s grape varieties, producing very concentrated, fruity wines, recommended for drinking with food because of their strong tannins.  However, some of the new wines from this area, recently introduced into the market, are in contrast soft, and perfect for drinking before and after meals.  The region is also famous for its Moscatel fortified wines, an ideal complement to cakes and sweet desserts, as well as a digestive drink.

Palmela is the larger of the two distinct wine regions on the Set6bal peninsula.  Low yielding vineyards on the north-facing clay and limestone slopes have traditionally produced the best wines, whilst those on the fertile, sandy plain extending eastwards from the fortress town of Palmela have always been more productive.

Grape varieties: The most important grape of the region is the versatile red Castelao Frances (nick-named Periquita), which is used to make red, ros6 and sparkling wines.  Espadeiro and Monvedro are also grown, but imported varieties such as Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot are gaining in popularity.  Apart from the Muscat of Alexandria (see below) Arinto and Esgana are the most significant white varieties.  Chardonnay, Riesling and Gewurztraminer are also grown successfully.

VINHO VERDE It is the white wine from this region that is most often seen around the world.  It is Portugal’s largest demarcated wine region, extending from Vale da Cambra south of the river Douro to the river Minho that forms the frontier with Spain.  It officially divides into six sub-regions, distinguished by climatic differences and the white grape varieties grown there.

Within this region you will find some of the oldest manor houses and noble families in the country dating back to the 11th and 12th centuries.  The region is punctuated by a

patchwork of farms and estates, producing a wide variety of agricultural products including grapes.  Vinho Verde is famous for its landscape of evergreen mountains and valleys, with mild winters and warm pleasant summers.  A region steeped in history, where wine has always played a major role as the best companion for the local fresh fish, meat, poultry and homegrown vegetables.

Grape varieties: Alvarinho, a prestigious variety that produces one of the best but least typical Vinhos Verdes.  Alcohol levels can be up to 13% and the wines are notably age-worthy.  Loureiro, Trajadura and Pedern5 all grow in the Vinho Verde DOC around the towns of Braga, Barcelos and Guimar5es.  These high-yielding vines produce wines that are light and fresh, typically with an alcoholic strength of between 8 and 10%.  Avesso is an important variety grown around the town of Bai5o in the Vinho Verde producing a slightly fuller style of wine.

The most popular grape varieties of Portugal:

White

Alvarinho Produces medium to full-bodied dry, crisp, aromatic wines with notes of peach, citrus, and apple.

Arinto produces dry, tangy wines with refreshing acidity, plenty of citrus fruit, some apple and mineral aromas.

Fernao Pires Characterised by floral aromas, apple, citrus notat and moderate acidity.

Red:

Aragones A highly regarded variety, rich in tannins that produces fruity (redcurrant, cherry, raspberry), dark and aromatic wines.

Castelao Young wines from this grape often have notes of raspberry and redcurrant, maturing with time to develop a warmer, smoother, more tarry character.

Touriga Nacional The wines are often aromatic, bursting with dark berry fruits yet often with floral notes of violets and rockrose pine, eucalyptus and herbs on the nose, plus the potential to age extremely well.

Trincadeira Produces rich and powerful dry reds with blackcurrant fruit, wild flowers and green herb notes.

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While most serious wine drinkers know about Oporto, a.k.a Porto, few are aware of the charms the greater municipal government with a population of over 1.7 million.
Located at he mouth of the Douro River, the city is virtually one with Vilanova de Gaia, connected to one another by several bridges, one of which was designed by Eiffel, the famous architect and creator of the Eiffel Tower in Paris.
Port shippers have established their blending facilities, bottling lines and warehouses here because of somewhat cooler air.
Oporto has daily (four times) luxury train connections with Lisbon, the capital of Portugal; there are several flights too.
The luxury train is comfortable, fast, and glides over the rails at high speed while you enjoy the scenery.
Oporto is compact and hilly. Downtown, the streets are narrow and lined with old, colourful houses.
Traffic in these labyrinthine quarters can be trying at the best of times, but around 11 a m when delivery trucks deliver goods to retailers, the traffic literally stops for up to half an hour at a time.
Walking downtown is recommended to visit many of the churches. The Cathedral, Clergymen Church and Tower, Carmo Church, Lapa Church, Cedofeita Church are absolute musts to appreciate the devotion of the overwhelmingly Catholic population.
The plazas are always full of people and there are many bakeries that also serve espresso. Portuguese seem to love pastries and sweets of all sorts.
The modern subway connects Oporto with Vila Nova de Gaia in the south where many of the old and well-established port shippers like Calem, Croft, Sandeman Ramos Pinto, Warre operate sidewalk cafes. Here you can enjoy the slow-flowing mighty Douro River’s beauty and the traffic on it.
Port shippers are always eager and proud to serve their precious vinous creations, and also offer cellar tours.
Several shippers have their old flat and wide rabalo boats on display in the river, emblazoned with their names on the sails. They were used to transport one-year old wines in barrels from the interior to warehouses before railroads and highways were built.
You can visit most of the cellars to see old, huge, upright barrels and hear the story of port wine. At the end of the tour, you may be given a few samples of different port wine styles and urged to buy a bottle or two at the adjacent boutique.
The Port Wine Museum is in Oporto on the shores of the Douro, and those interested in the history of the wine should pay a visit to this highly interesting museum, which surprisingly does not serve any type of wine.
The main thoroughfare of Porto is Miguel Bombarda lined with several art galleries, and many intense parties are held when new exhibits open.
Palacio Bolsa (the stock exchange) was designed in neo-Moorish architectural style, and definitely worth a visit is the Museum of Contemporary Art.
Moors occupied large parts of Portugal and Spain for several centuries and influenced local architecture to the extent that it is still noticeable in toady’s modern buildings.
Romans significantly expanded the city in the fourth century on the foundations of Celtic and proto-Celtic remnants of citadels.
Moors invaded the area in 711 and were defeated in 868. In the approximately century-and-a-half of their “stay” Moors influenced architecture, agriculture, city planning, and culinary evolution.
If you are looking for an interesting and relaxing day, book a Douro River cruise, which travels upriver.
Here you can marvel at the terraced vineyards while sipping a glass of wine derived from fruit grown on these soils. Such a cruise is highly recommended, even if you do not drink wine, and may even result in you getting to appreciate wine.
Accommodation in Oporto is available, but like everywhere else in Europe, quite expensive. Book ahead and make sure the hotel has parking facilities. Alternately, you can seek accommodation in Vila Nova de Gaia.
Casa Aleixo (Rua de Estacao 216) is one restaurant you can safely visit and try their fish and seafood specialties.
You can also try Douro’s famous tripes, and fresh grilled sardines when wash it down with white vino verde.
The best time to travel is spring and autumn to escape the infernal heat and humidity in summer.
For more information about accommodation and restaurants
e-mail info@portugalvirtual.pt

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During recessions, people tend to trade down their gustatory pleasures. Less expensive foods are favoured over more refined and processed foods. Wine drinkers start buying less expensive products but don’t want to give up taste.
This provides an opportunity for wine producing countries that offer value wines. In such countries land is less expensive, labour abundant, and technology advanced.
Portugal is one such country. Located on the Iberian Peninsula, this small country has been producing wine well over 2000 years, and recently switched to modern wine making techniques. Modern Portuguese wines are fruity, well defined, offer a lot of taste, are east to enjoy, designed to complement food and above all value priced.
If you want low alcohol and fragrant white wines , go with vino verde, to match fish dishes, pastas, assorted cured meats and seafood based appetizers.
Regional wines are fine, and if you are fond of fortified sweet wines, Port and Madeira wines will please your palate.
Portugal has 11 delimited regions, each of which contains several sub-regions noted for their different characteristics.
Two decades ago, Portuguese winemakers and winery owners decided to use predominantly indigenous grape varieties, and occasionally supplement them, if at all, with international ones like cabernet sauvignon, chardonnay, sauvignon blanc, cabernet franc, and syrah just to name a few. A few wineries produce and market varietal wines derived exclusively from foreign grape varieties in an attempt to gain market share, as many in export markets are more apt to buy such wines with which they are familiar.
In fact since 2008, Portuguese wine sales worldwide have substantially increased.
The L. C. B. O. offers several fine Portuguese wines in its general list offerings, and frequently the Vintages division features excellent products at very reasonable cost, for example on November 21 release Frei Joao 2006 by Caves Joao, from Bairrada in northern Portugal. This full-bodied, fruity, well-balanced red wine with soft tannins drinks well now, but can be aged
for two to three years to become even more refined. It is easy to enjoy now, with meat-sauced pastas, medium-rare steaks, roast beef, stews, and with semi-hard or hard cheeses.
Frei Joao is highly recommended and represents good value.

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Finagra Esporão Reserva 2006.

This is a great vintage for this wine. It tastes of red berries and spices with a clear, but calm oaky character. The wine has great body all the way with a little short but intense finish. We had this with some chicken which was great. Or you could try it with some veal. Read more about the price in Scandinavia and the dice we gave it on Winesworld.net.

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Winesworld.

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The Douro Valley extending from Spain through Portugal to the Atlantic Ocean is famous for its port wines. In Spain, Ribera del Duero and Toro are two regions that produce fine red table wines.
In Portugal the valley consists of three sub-appellations – Baixa Corgo, Cima Corgo, and Alto Douro. The rugged Alto Douro and tranquil Cima Corgo produce the best port wines, while Baixa Corgo close to the Ocean produces white ports, and now, more and more dry table wines.
Fladgate Partnership is an umbrella organization consisting of three venerable port-shipping houses – Taylor, Fladgate, and Yeates, Fonseca, and Croft.
This organization is one of the largest in the industry, famous for its research and consistent quality.
The Douro Valley produces an average of 120 million bottles of ports of which vintage port represents 1.5 per cent, and LBV (Late Bottled Vintage) 4.5 per cent.
The remainder consists of ruby, and tawny ports of different ages.
Vintage ports are made and declared only in exceptional years. Vintage ports are long-lived and cellar worthy wines. In the past 20 – 50 year old ports were still in very good drinkable condition, while today winemakers make very refined and fruit-driven ports that are accessible much sooner.
Unlike other ports, vintage ports must be consumed once the bottle is opened, but first decanted appropriately to get rid of sediments.
Red port wines should be served at 15 C (68 F) and white ports, cool 45 F (9C).
There are well over 3500 growers, but only 870 of them tend vineyards larger than three hectares. There are 110 port shippers, who buy grapes and/or own their own vineyards and make the wine, including blends that are proprietary. Every port-shipping house has its own style.

Port wines come in the following categories:
Ruby port
Colheita (a ruby port that has been cellared for seven years)
Tawny port (10, 20, 30, and 40 year old)
L B V (Late Bottled Vintage)
Crusted
Vintage
Many well established port houses own estates here called Quinta. Most are located in prime locations, and practically every one contains a guesthouse to entertain dignitaries, famous persons, importers, and wine writers.
Each of the Fladgate partnership’s quintas has guesthouses.
Taylor – Quinta de Vargellas
Fonseca – Quinta do Panascal
Croft – Quinta da Roeda
Recently the CEO of Fladgate Partnership Adrian Bridge conducted a tasting of company’s ports.
The tasting started with Fonseca’s fragrant and delightful; white port ($13.95).
Then we proceeded with a suit down tasting of the following ports:

Quinta do Panascal 2001 Vintage Port
Blackberry and plum aromas waft out of the glass. Well-defined, structured with chocolate flavours and firm tannins. Lingering finish. Enjoy with walnuts, old cheeses, dried fruits or simply sip and contemplate.
Vintages 585893 $ 64.95

Quinta do Roeda 2005 Vintage Port
Inky black with purple highlights. Floral and fruity at the same time. The palate is full of plums, cherries, and blackcurrant jam. Integrated tannins with a long and luscious finish.
Vintages 650556 $ 58.95

Quinta de Vargellas 2005 Vintage Port
Blackcurrant, cherry and blackberry aromas interlaced with notes of apricot and plums rush to the nose. Violet smells, a hallmark of the estate, make this port memorable and delicious on its own, or with dried fruits. An outstanding wine from a well tended estate.
Vintages 403873 $ 65.00

Fonseca 2003 Vintage Port
Fruity, harmonious, full bodied, integrated tannins, powerful, and with a long finish.
Vintages 673095 $ 127.95

Croft 2003 Vintage Port
Blackberry, blackcurrant, and cherry aromas dominate. Full bodied and delicious in the mouth with a good amount of tannin. An excellent wine to cellar for up to 20 years, but can be enjoyed now.
Vintages 673103 $ 123.00

Taylor 2003 Vintage Port
Taylor Fladgate is one of the best port houses, and enjoys an excellent reputation for meticulous wine making and blending.
This vintage yielded wines exuding violets and dark berries. Very powerful and evolves in the mouth, changing from elegance to refinement, to intense, to exuberant.
Cellar worthy for up to 25 – 30 years, but enjoyable now.
Vintages 951962 $ 129.00

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Niepoort Vinhos Redoma 2002

Redoma was the first Douro table wine from Niepoort and the first release was back in 1991. Redoma is like the Douro “extreme and with a rigorous character”. Old north facing vineyards from Quinta de Napoles and Pinhão Valley are the base for Redoma. The main varieties are Tinta Amarela, Tinta Roriz and Touriga Franca.

Even in a little week vintage we do love Niepoort Vinhos. This wine is robust, full-bodied, fruity and rustic. It fits perfect for heavy food and we have it gladly to some pork.

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Winesworld.

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Caves Dom Teodósio Casaleiro Syrah Reserva 2006.

This wine has a lot of power, with tastes of red berries and pepper. You can drink it without any food, but we recommend some food with this one. And the food can be with some spices. It is a fine wine and don’t cost much if you just like some wine with a meal.

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Winesworld.

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Hans Kristian and Carrie Jørgensen bought in 1988 the winyard Cortes de Cima ( ca. 100 acres ) in Alentejo, Portugal. There they make the wine Cortes de Cima.

Winegrower and Winemaker

Both the grapegrower and head winemaker at Cortes de Cima. Born in Skals, Denmark, he took his degree in mechanical engineering before leaving his native country for the East, and spent the next 23 years in Malaysia as engineer for a Danish plantation company, United Plantations. There he worked with a great variety of tropical commodities, including palm oil, coconut oil, cocoa and tea. While in Malaysia, Hans followed the company tradition of flying, private airplanes being the best means of getting around plantations surrounded by tropical jungle.

He keeps this tradition alive at Cortes de Cima, using his Cessna aircraft for aerial observation and visiting his vineyards.

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