
Burgundy in central eastern France is fabled wine country with thousands of grape growers, hundreds of winemakers, and many shippers.
Not too long ago, shippers dominated export markets. They had the means to buy unfinished wines, sometimes blend them, at other times barrel age and bottle. Needless to say, they could afford to finance foreign travel to open new markets and/or promote their brands.
Today, many grape growers make their wines, sometimes with a little help from consultants, and promote travelling in large groups to distant markets pouring their wines.
Some are great wines, others “interesting, but never dull.
Bouchard Pere et Fils was founded by a Belgian textile manufacturer and merchant who travelled frequently to France to sell. He loved Burgundy so much that in 1731 decided to settle in Volnay and ship wine to Belgium. In the 19th century, Bouchard expanded to make wine and also stared buying bulk for blending and moved to Chateau de Beaune, where it remains to day.
The company owns 130 hectares on the Cote d’Or (stretching from Dijon to Chagny, a small village with an excellent Michelin starred restaurant called La Meloise) of which 12 are classified as Grands cru, and 74 premiere crus.
In Burgundy there are 23 regional appellations representing 53 per cent of all vineyards. Most are on flatlands and away from the hills. 30 per cent in village appellations, 15 per cent or 570 vineyards premiere cru (classified vineyards) and two per cent or 33 vineyards grands cru which represent the best terroirs.
In Burgundy the vineyards are classified, whereas in Bordeaux château (estates) reign.
In Burgundy consumers must know about the classification of vineyards and the difference between grand cru, premiere cru, village and regional appellation and take into consideration the reputation of the shipper or winery.
Some unscrupulous shippers buy village quality wines age them to sell as premiere cru, or under brands of their own and classify them higher than they should be at elevated prices.
Chevalier Montrachet is a single vineyard classified as grand cru, and may be marketed by a few shippers as such because it is very small, but Montrachet is a village appellation, not Le Montrachet, a single classified vineyard, made and marketed many growers and shippers.
Meursault is a village appellation, but Meursault Genevrieres is single vineyard classified as premiere cru.
Bouchard Pere et Fils has also a few “monopole” wines which are exclusive to the company and only marketed by it i.e Vigne de l’Enfant Jesu, Beaune Clos de la Mousse, Volnay Fremiets, Clos de la Rougeotte, Beaune du Chateau. In Cote d’Or the prime grapes are pinot noir for reds and chardonnay for white. In Burgundy there are other varieties that can be quite pleasant and flavourful – gamay, auxerrois, aligote, pinot blanc are the main lesser known varieties.
Gamay is predominant in Beaujolais, others in small parcels throughout the region.
The vineyards in Burgundy are finely classifies into small sections making a mosaic of terroirs with countless nuances.
Bouchard Pere et Fils is an ambassador of this diversity, harvesting fruit fro a great number of remarkable vineyards all over Cote d’Or and now also in Fleurie, one of the 10 cru of Beaujolais. The winery is called Villa Ponciago.
Luc Bouchard visits Toronto very year for a tasting;
The highlights of this year’s tasting for me were:
Whites:
Meursault Perrieres, 2008,Premiere Cru, Cote d’Or
Brillaint light yellow with green tinges. Aromas of pears/apples, floral and whiff of oak. A full bodied wine yet subtle with elegant mineral flavours and long aftertaste.
93/100
$ 47.00
Chevalier Montrachet, 2008, Grand Cru, Cote d’Or
The village of Puligny Montrachet has six grand cru vineyards the largest of which is Chevalier Montrachet (7 hectares).Floral, fruit and toast aromas waft out of the glass. Complex flavours, medium bodied, elegant with good aging potential. A divine wine.
94/100
$ 255.00
Corton Charlemagne, 2008, Grand Cru, Cote d’Or
The village of Aloxe Corton has 12 grand cru classified vineyards. This grand cru offers intense fruit, mineral, and toast aromas. Well-extracted, rich and powerful with personality and excellent finish.
94é100
$ 149.00
Meursault Les Clous, 2007
This village quality Meursault offers floral aromas. It is subtle with fine acid undertones and smooth clean finish.
93é100
$ 47.00
William Fevre Chablis wines.
The company is owned by Mr. Henriot the owner of Bouchard Pere et Fils
Chablis Bougros Cote Bougerots, 2008
Chablis comes in four quality levels. Chablis Grand cru, Chablis Premiere Cru, Chablis and Petit Chablis.
There are only seven grand cru vineyards. This wine originates in one, and offers depth, extraordinary fruit ripeness, and elegance. Complex flavours in the mouth make it apprpriate with seafood.
91é100
$ 81.00
Chablis Les Preuses, 2008
Alond aromas waft out of the glass. The mid-palate is soft, layered and with fine acid backbone. A superb wines for delicate seafood i.e. Dover Sole Colbert, shrimp in a cream and dill sauce, scallops in dill sauce, and salmon Swedish stye
91/100 $ 81.00
Chablis Les Clos, 2008
Offers fruit (apples/pears) aromas, depth, refinement and elegance. Smooth and enticing texture and minerality and good length.
94/100
$ 93.00
Red wines
Savigny Les Beaune Les Lavieres, 2007 Premiere Cru
Ripe berry aromas waft out of the glass, followed by intense flavours of mushrooms and forest floor. Good acidity and medium body with a long finish. Can be cellared for to five years.
89/100
$ 40.00
Beaune du Château, 2007, Premiere Cru
This property is owned by Bouchard Pere et Fils since 1907. The wine is a blend of 17 premiere cru vineyards.
Perfume aromas, harmonious, soft and elegant.
90/100
$ 39.00
Gevrey Chambertin, 2007
The fruit originates in communal vineyards on flatland, but the wine offers strawberry aromas along with typical forest floor smells. Appealing, fleshy, mouthful with a long finish.
Cellar for two to three years with a potential for five more years.
91/100
$ 45.00
Clos Vougeot, 2007, Grand cru
This enclosed 50-hectare property has more than 70 owners. Some own a few rows. This grand cru classified wines offers fruit aromas, with a hint of spice and oak. On the palate it is refines and elegant with depth.
Superb with roast rack of lamb or veal, hard or semi hard cheeses.
A “meditation” wine.
91/100
$ 169.00
Le Corton, 2007, Grand Cru
From Aloxe Corton’s grand cru vineyard this extraordinary wine smells of ripe berries, forest floor and spice. Well balanced and structured with a long and satisfying finish.
92/100
$ 102.00
Recently Bouchard Pere et Fils acquired an old property in Fleurie, Beaujolais. Three wiens were offered for tasting:
Beaujolais Village, 2009, Villa Ponciaga
Offers freshness fruitiness of a true gamay grown on granitic sandy soils of the region.
92/100
$ 17.00
Villa Ponciaga La reserve Les Haut du Py, 2009
Fruity, offering freshness, lively flavours and silky texture. Would complement cold cuts, roast leg of lamb, even roast chicken, and meat casseroles.
91/100
$ 23.00
All above wines can be ordered through R. Woodman Wines and Spirits Toronto.
Private roders take approximately eight weeks to arrive.
For more information contact Jason at Woodman Wines and Spirits
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Never miss a post! subscribe via RSS or subscribe via e-mail. Post writer – Hrayr Berberoglu – E-mail – Read his books? Professor B offers seminars to companies and interested parties on any category of wine, chocolates, chocolates and wine, olive oils, vinegars and dressings, at a reasonable cost. |


















































