
Those who do not take chances will never enjoy champagne. Russian proverb
I could drink champagne all the time, if only it weren’t so expensive. Luckily, of late, prices have started to come down, even at L C B O.
Champagne manufacturers noticed, much to their dismay, that demand has dropped in some markets up to 30 per cent, but only for the entry level products. Premium brands, les grandes marques, are still selling at the same prices before the recession.
In Champagne last year, the yield per hectare was fixed at 15 tons. This year it is 12 tons, and the juice of three tons must be held back and sold at a later date.
Champagne is a luxury product and most manufacturers are well off, enough to ride out, even a long recession. Small family operations suffer financially.
In the last two decades, practically all wine producing countries started their own industries either my using the costly methode champenoise, or the less expensive Charmat method. Such products cost a fraction of champagne, but lack the cachet of the original wine mostly due to marketing, packaging, and finesse of the champagne.
Although most books only three grape varieties are mentioned (pinot noir, pinot meunier and chardonnay), in reality nine can be legally planted and surely there are. The remaining six are: arbanne, pinot blanc, petit meslier, pinot gris (fromanteu in Champagne), pinot de Juillet and pinot rose.
Of late many large champagne manufacturers purchased smaller but well known producers and their brands, i.e Louis Vuitton Moet Hennessy owns Krug, Veuve Cliquot, Ruinart, and Mercier.
Moet et Chandon and Veuve Cliquot control 55 per cent of the export market.
Boizel-Chamoine owns Lanson, Boizel, de Venoge, Besserat, Gauthier, Maison Burton, Chamoine Freres, and Champagne Alexander Bonnet.
Remy-Cointreau group owns Charles Heidsieck and Piper-Heidsieck.
A. Thienot Marie Stuart, Thienot, Canard-Duchene,
Pernod-Ricard G.H. Mumm, and Perrier-Jouet.
Vranken-Pommery Heidiseck Monopole, and Magnien.
At this time champagne houses are reserving vintage wine and disgorging to specific requests of their best customers.
Small family operations are now turning to biodynamic production in an attempt to gain market share, or at least maintain what they have.
Recently, I had the opportunity to taste five biodynamic champagnes from Fleury, a small family owned and operated firm.
Carte Rouge ($ 56.95), dry, fruity, refreshing with a long aftertaste and fine bubbles; Fleur de l’Europe ($ 56.95(dry, blended using wines from the 2001 and 2002 vintage, aromas of apples/pears, vibrant and deeply flavoured: Rose de Seigne Brut ($ 67.95) exclusively produced using pinot noir grapes with the classic “saignee” technique. This is an excellent rose that could rival brands selling for close to $ 100.00. It smells of strawberries, is well balanced and possesses very fine bubbles; Robert Fleury, 2000, ($ 79.95) was created in honour of the founder of the firm. It has finesse, offers pronounced fruit aromas, is refreshing and layered flavours; 1995 vintage Fleury ($ 89.95) had a biscuit flavour. It is elegant refined with superb, ripe fruit. Comparable quality bands cost twice the amount being asked.
All can be ordered from the Living Wine. E-mail mark@thelivingvine.ca.
Champagne’s best markets are: The United Kingdom, the U.S.A., Germany, Belgium, Sweden, Spain, the Netherlands, Canada and Denmark. Russia and China are evolving and promising markets.
If you cannot afford champagne, there are other alternatives: Freixenet Cordon Negro, Segura Viudas Brut Reserva (Spain), Sauvignon Blanc Two Oceans, (South Africa), Henkell Brut (Germany), Prosecco di Valdobbiadene, Cantina Produttori di Valdobbiadene, Asti Spumante, Martini e Rossi (Italy), Jacobs Creek Sparkling, Jantz (Australia), Roederer California (U.S.A), Schramsberg, Brut Chateau des Charmes (Ontario).
Tips
Sparkling wines should be consumed within a year of purchase. Vintage dated champagne can be cellared for up to 10 years and in some cases even longer.
Never put sparkling wine in the freezer to cool quickly. A bottle of sparkling wine will cool in 20 – 25 minutes (water, ice cubes, and salt).
Use flute shaped glasses for service.
Never shake a bottle and serve the wine at approximately 9 – 10 C
![]() |
Never miss a post! subscribe via RSS or subscribe via e-mail. Post writer – Hrayr Berberoglu – E-mail – Read his books? |





























