Just 20 kilometres south of Siena, Tuscany, the hilly enclave, the commune of Montalcino, measures 16 Km. in diameter with the eponymous town sitting at its highest point. The medieval town appears sleepy and stuck in time, but not when it comes to wine, red wine in particular. Here, the now world-famous Brunello di Montalcino was born, and continues to be produced.

It is one of Italy’s best, and the best tasting red wine derived from the sangiovese clone. Sangiovese is Italy’s most popular red grape variety.

Montalcino is relatively isolated from the mainstream of wine trade and this may partially explain why this high-quality red wine remained obscure long after Ferrucio Biondi-Santi discovered a clone of sangiovese with better flavour and physical attributes than regular vines.

Brunello, literally translated, (the little brown one) yields wines that taste great and age very well. In fact there are still a few bottles of Brunello di Montalcino from the 19th century in the cellars of Biondi-Santi.

But the wine remained relatively unknown both in Italy and abroad well into 1960’s, then Banfi, an American wine importer of Italian origin, decided to import and promote Brunello di Montalcino after establishing a large estate in the region. From then on, there has been a surge in demand, partially because Banfi was successful in marketing the wine in the U S A. No product can succeed in the U. S. A. without well planned and funded promotion activity. However, with fame and increased demand, the inevitable happens – prices start moving upwards.

By 2002 there were well over 70 producers of Brunello di Montalcino (more than ten times in the past 50 years), producing close to six million bottles, whereas in 1960 the number was 100,000.

In 1960 the Italian government promulgated wine laws. For Brunello di Montalcino, the minimum barrel aging was stipulated as 42 months, plus 12 months in the bottle.
Occasionally, the fruit fails to ripen fully. This happens infrequently in Montalcino. Such vintages are described as “mediocre” or l”less successful”.

Grapes that are not fully ripe yield a wine that does not benefit from lengthy barrel aging. Thus, in 1990 the compulsory barrel aging was reduced to 36 months and 12 months int eh bottle.

For riserva quality, one more year of aging is required. Some winemakers age their wines in 225 litre French (Allier and Vosges) barrels for a short time and make up the required ageing in the bottle. This keeps the wine vibrant. .

A Brunello di Montalcino of a highly rated vintage requires at least ten years of cellaring before it sheds its youthfulness, then the flavours harmonize.
It is important to distinguish Brunello di Montalcino from Rosso di Montalcino, which is made using brunello grapes, but barrel aged only for six months and an equal period in bottles. Needless to say, Rosso di Montalcino costs one-third of regular Brunello di Montalcino.

Here are now two styles – traditional, svelte model that ages well, yielding rich and opulent wines, and more fruity, concentrated, intense, and powerful versions with distinct cherry aromas. The latter pleases the nose and is full bodied on the mid-palate. North Americans prefer this version.

Presently, 65 per cent of Brunello di Montalcino goes to the U S A, five to the United Kingdom, ten to Switzerland, and an equal amount to Germany. Canadian liquor control boards, mainly by the government owned Liquor Control Board of Ontario, purchase a small quantity.

In Europe Swiss and Germans travel to Tuscany, even for a weekend, and visiting tourists are responsible for much of the sales.

The fortress of Montalcino is both a museum and a wine shop, featuring the products of all wineries and other agricultural products, namely pecorino Toscano, honey and salumi.

Many wineries, including Col d’Orcia, Altesino, and others, are involved with clonal selection research to determine the most suitable for the region. Meanwhile, the Bindi-Santi clone is declared a National heritage by the Italian government as clone 5 BBS.

Sangiovese is a difficult grape, highly sensitive to its environment, thin-skinned, slow ripening, and prone to rot if it rains when the grapes are ripe. Over-cropping sangiovese dilutes its flavour. 6 – 7,000 vines per hectare works best, with severe pruning to limit the yield to five to five-and-half tons per hectare.

In Montalcino, the soil is clay based with patches of galestro (crumbly marl-like soil). Clay based soils yield structurally strong wines, whereas those of galestro produce elegant and refined wines.

The best and richest wines emerge from the sun-baked vineyards south of Montalcino.
Biondi-Santi’s Il Greppo vineyard is located there.

Just outside of town is Fattoria dei Barbi, owned and managed by Donna Colombini-Cinelli. Her son is now in charge of day-to-day management of the property, in addition to another vineyard in Maremma closer to the Tyrrhenian Sea to the west.
Fattoria dei Barbi is well known for its cellar-worthy wines, particularly riserva quality that must be aged longer than regular Brunello di Montalcino.

Fattoria dei Barbi’s wines are reasonably priced. The 400-hectare property produces cheese, wheat, sausages and ham. The on-site restaurant serves typical Tuscan fare, well worth experiencing.

Barrel aging has now become problematic. Previously, wineries employed botte (upright Slovenian oak barrel with a capacity of 75 hectolitres). Now winemakers are debating whether they should employ 25 hectolitres botte, or use French oak (Allier or Nevers) with 225 litre capacity. Small barrels age the wine faster and impart strong oak flavours if maturation is prolonged. Then there is the question whether old barrels should be used (second or third year) as opposed to new for every vintage.
Of course, any winery can decide to sell Rosso di Montalcino after one year of barrel aging, but the flavour difference is noticeable, and so is the price.

Here are some of the most reputable Brunello di Montalcino wineries:
Fattoria dei Barbi, Biondi-Santi, Col dèOrcia, Marchesi Antinori, Argiano, Castello Banfi, Tentua Nuova, Ciacci, Piccolomini dèAragona, Val di Sugo, Siro Pacenti, Conti Constanti, Casa Nova delle Cerbaie, Fanti, Il Palazonne, Lisini, Salicutti Piaggione, Livio Sassetti, Silvio Nardi, Castelgiocondo, Casanovo di Neri, Tentimenti Anglini, Capanna, Frescobaldi, La Gerla, Poggio Antico, Roberto Cosini and Romitorio.

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Long celebrated for its fine sauvignon blanc, chardonnay, and pinot gris, New Zealand is now turning heads with its pinot noir, merlot and blends.

Standing apart from most New World wine regions, the climate is cooler and winemakers approach the craft definitively with 21st century technology and mentality. They create red wines that harmonize traditional elegance with contemporary tastes, and wine enthusiasts the worlds over have decided to enjoy them.

New Zealand vineyards get plenty of sunshine but are considerably cooler than those in Australia due to the ocean surrounding both islands. Vineyards are scientifically planted, and managed to yield the best quality fruit possible.

Winemakers aim to produce high quality, because the output is small and must offer an incentive to consumers to buy. Prices are reasonable.

New Zeeland’s pinot noir wines are closer in style to Burgundy red than elsewhere in the world. The cool maritime climate imparts bright acidity, with cherry, berry, plum and pomegranate flavours.

Central Otago in the south island has a short time, become the centre of New Zealand pinot noir production, but central Otago is not the only region that excels in pinot noir. Nelson, adjacent to Marlborough, also produces fine pinot noir wines.
Merlot from Hawkes Bay in the north island is full-bodied, always well balanced, fruit-driven and elegant. They are very approachable in their youth, but can also be cellared for a few years.

Syrah is the “new” red grape of New Zealand, and Hawkes Bay has already been recognized to produce some of the best in the land. Elephant Hill, a German-owned and managed winery, produced northern Cotes du Rhone style syrah that is remarkable.

Here are the red wines of this year’s New Zealand tasting in Toronto:

Pinot Noir, 2006, Carrick, Central Otago
Complex aromas of dark fruit flavours with bitter chocolate overtones. The finish is long an satisfying.
$ 35.95 available at Vintages

Pinot Noir, 2006, Schubert, Martinborough
This small, family-operates winery’s pinot noir can be favourably compared to any Cote de Beaune 1er cru. It is brilliant in colour, smells of strawberries, tastes “juicy” and in the mouth reveals a layered texture.
92/100

Merlot, 2007, Ngatarawa Stables, Hawkes Bay
Easy drinking, mid-weight crimson-coloured, smells of berries, and displays spicy flavours.
90/100
Available at Vintages

Merlot, 2007, Coopers Creek, Hawkes Bay
This brilliant wine includes 12 per cent malbec, is fruity (raspberry and plum) and complex, with fine tannins.
89/100

Syrah, 2008, Elephant Hills, Hawkes Bay
From a new German-owned and managed winery, this syrah seduces the nose with pepper and fruit aromas, buttressed with refined tannins and pleasant acidity.
91/100
$ 28.95
Agency HHD Imports info”hhdimprots.com

Soultaker Pinot Noir, 2007, Gibbotson Highgate Estate, Central Otago
An excellent example of a fine pinot noir. Smells of strawberries dominate. Full bodied, dark, nuanced and long in the finish.
90é100
$ 45.00
Agent : laura.higgins”simpatico.ca

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When the Vikings first reached the shores of eastern America, the land was covered with wild grapes that belong to vitis rotundifolia, – labrusca and – riparia family grape varieties. They resist severe colds (below – 25 C) and are relatively immune to the phylloxera vastatrix aphid.

Unfortunately, they contain methyl antrinilate and impart a chemical and unpleasant aroma to wines. The grapes are highly acidic and sugar or de-acidification. Well into1970’s, old large volume oriented wineries insisted that fine wines can be made from these grapes or their hybrids.

The Free Trade Agreement with the U S A was a wake up call and visionary winery owners (D. Ziraldo, K.Kaiser, and Paul Bosc) saw the writing on the wall, and quickly reverted to vitis vinifera grape varieties that yield superior quality, but resist cold less successfully than native varieties. Before them, late John Marynissen had planted on his vineyards between Niagara-on-the-Lake and Niagara Falls vitis vinfiera, and proved that they can, with due care, survive harsh climates.

Today, the majority of grape farmers and wineries plant vitis vinifera grapes and/or labrusca hybrids that have the “foxiness” outbred of them.

Modern Canadian viticulture has a short history (about 40 years or so) but during this period applying European research to local conditions made a lot of advances.
Today there is still some experimentation going on by winemakers, grape growers, and the Cool Climate School of Oenology at the Brock University.

British Columbia farmers use more or less the same grape varieties with a sprinkling of more German varieties. Thanks to late Dr. H. Becker, the director of Geisenheim School of Oenology, who had a soft spot for Canadian grape growers.

Here are the grape varieties used for a range of wines:

Aligote – (less than two hectares) mostly planted in Ontario. Originally from Burgundy, this grape yields fruity but acid-driven wines that require food. High yielding aligote is produced as a varietal by Chateau des Charmes in St Catharines. Other wineries use it for blending.

L’Acadie blanc (approximately 20 hectares in Nova Scotia). Was developed by the Horticultural Research Institute in Ontario for harsh winters. Produces abundantly, but highly acid grapes with low fruitiness.

Auxerrois (50 hectares in Ontario and British Columbia) Native to Alsace, auxerrois withstands cold temperatures well. The wines from low yield sites smell of apples and pears with floral undertones. Only a few wineries produce auxerrois as a varietal wine.

Bacchus (20 hectare in British Columbia only). A cross of riesling, silvaner and muller-thurgau. Produces finely scented wines if fully ripe. British Columbia’s Okanagan Valley is very suitable for bacchus, and Gehringer Brothers winery is well known for its floral off-dry bacchus wines.

Chardonnay (1000 hectares 60 per cent in Ontario and remainder in British Columbia) – is the most popular grape variety with a great future in Ontario, although it originates in Burgundy. The grape has a relatively neutral taste and lends itself well to different styles of winemaking.

It can be made without oak aging, or with, in a number of different oak barrels and toast levels. Some winemakers ferment the must in barrels for additional flavour and to prolong aging potential.

In British Columbia’s Okanagan Valley chardonnay yields softer and very approachable wines

Chardonnay musque (10 hectares) is a highly aromatic clone of chardonnay. In Burgundy it is classified as a chardonnay clone. The fruitiness fades after two years and the wine takes on more chardonnay flavours.

Chenin blanc (10 hectares) This versatile grape variety yields in the Loire Valley wines ranging from dry to off dry and sweet. The best fruit in Canada comes from British Columbia due to climate. It has a natural, pleasant acidity and lends itself well as a base for sparkling wine. Outside of Loire it is extensively planted in South Africa, California and Argentina.

Gewurztraminer (285 hectares in Ontario and British Columbia). Originated in the town of Tramin in northern Italy, but came to prominence in Alsace with a “spicy” clone discovered there. The most famous and flavourful gewürztraminers come from Alsace. In Canada, British Columbia grows more flavourful fruit, if yields are kept low. Gewurztraminer yields dry wines that are floral, and spicy, with lychee nut flavours. Sweeter versions go best with seared fattened goose liver, or pates of it.

Some Ontario wineries produce superbly balanced and delicious gewürztraminer icewines,

Riesling (540 hectares in Ontario and British Columbia). This classic German grape does well in the Ontario Peninsula and yields fine wines ranging from dry to super sweet in the form of icewine. Riesling is a versatile grape, resists cold weather, needs a long, moderately warm growing season, but must be well pruned to keep yields low. Yields up to seven tons per hectare yield flavourful wines.

Ontario’s terroir yields better quality fruit. There are several wineries that produce outstanding Riesling wines in both Ontario and British Columbia.

Sauvignon blanc (220 hectares in Ontario and British Columbia). Originally from the Loire Valley, this grape yields fine wines when the fruit is picked ripe. It yields dry wines with aromas of gooseberries, freshly moved grass, and herbal nuances. It is sensitive to cold weather.

Pinot Gris (pinot grigio, Grauburgunder) (230 hectares in Ontario and British Columbia). A relative of pinot noir, it has become popular mostly due to its light fruity versions hailing from northern Italy. Pinot gris may be fruity and floral at the same time with a spicy edge. British Columbia pinot gris has more depth than the Ontario versions.

Alsace produces very flavourful pinot gris wines with a more pronounced texture.

Pinot blanc (pinot bianco, Weissburgunder) (110 hectares in British Columbia and Ontario).

Another mutation of pinot noir, but needs warm growing season. Wines smell of apples and pears and may be full bodied if the yield is kept low and fruit picked ripe. Pinot blanc is more successful in British Columbia but losing ground to more popular pinot grigio.

Semillon (20 hectares British Columbia and Ontario). A fine aromatic grape requiring hot growing season. Does well in Bordeaux, Australia, California, and British Columbia in Canada. Mostly used in blending.

Viognier (15 hectares in British Columbia and Ontario). At home in southern Cotes du Rhone this aromatic grape is a newcomer to Canada. The best come from Condrieu and smell of apricots and peaches. Viognier grows well in British Columbia, Australia, California, and Cotes du Rhone.

Vidal (670 hectares), mostly planted in Ontario. This hybrid a.k.a Vidal 256 is a cross of ugni blanc (trebbiano) and S 4986. Vidal is prolific and thick-skinned, winter hardy, and popular in Ontario particularly for icewine. Grapes resist shattering when frozen on the vine. It can be made to a fine dry wine in the hands of capable winemakers.

Seyval blanc (cross between S 5656 and S 4986). Used to be very popular in Ontario due to its winter hardiness, but yield a relatively neutral-flavoured wine mostly used for sparkling wine blends and still wine component.

Gruner Veltliner (less than five hectares). Is a popular Austrian acid-driven grape with a few hectares in Ontario. Inniskillin used to produce a varietal wine, but stopped due to marketing difficulties. Gruner Veltliner can yield lively, fruity wines when picked ripe.

Muscat-Ottonel (30 hectares in Ontario, British Columbia and Nova Scotia). Originally from the Loire Valley. It yields floral, fruity wines, particularly when harvested late. A few Ontario wineries make and market Muscat-Ottonel.

Optima (five hectares in British Columbia) is a cross between Muller-Thurgau and Siegerrebe, and yields fine, fruity, honeyed wines when harvested ripe. It likes hot climates.

Kerner is a cross between courtillier musque and riesling – A few hectares exist in Ontario and at least one winery produces a fine fruity, off dry varietal. It is highly recommended for fruit bowls, and patio sipping.

Ehrenfelser (25 hectares in British Columbia). It is a cross between riesling and silvaner Developed in Germany, it produces floral, fruity, low-alcohol wines, which are eminently suitable for patio sipping. Gehringer Brothers winery in British Columbia’s Okanagan Valley produces fine Ehrenfelser varietals.

There are a few hectares of Geisenheim 234 in Prince Edward County and probably a few more planted by curious and experiment-oriented growers.

Red grapes

Baco noir is one of the more successful French hybrid grapes in Ontario (400 hectares). It is a cross of folle blanche and riparia, and was developed by Francois Baco, a French hybridiser) in 1902. It ripens early, is winter hardy, and yields fine wines if not over cropped. It deserves more attention than it gets by consumers, who believe it to be inferior because of its parentage. There are two Ontario wineries that produce fine baco noirs.

De Chaunac (unknown parentage but related to S 5.163) is popular in Ontario due to its winter hardiness. It can produce respectable mid-weight wines if not over cropped. Its popularity is fast declining in Ontario, but increasing in Nova Scotia.

Chambourcin – Joannes Seyve, a French hybridiser, developed Chambourcin. Yields wines of deep colour and full body. It used to be quite popular in 1980’s in Ontario, but is now used as a blending wine.

Marechal Foch (Kuhlmann 188.2). A cross between riparia-rupestris and goldriesling. developed by Kuhlmann, an Alsatian, director of the wine school there and hybridiser. Marechal Foch is winter hardy, ripens early and yields purple, mid-weight wines. It used to be very popular in Ontario. Still a few Ontario wineries use it for blending. In Nova Scotia it is used to produce a varietal.

Leon-Millot (Kuhlmann 194.2) possesses the same parentage as Marechal Foch. This vigorous and early ripening grape used to be quite popular 30 years ago, but has been losing ground for some time.

Chancellor (S 5163X S800) a fruitful and winter hardy hybrid that yields light, fruity wines. It is losing popularity to vitis vinifera grapes.

Chelois (Seibel 10.878) a moderately productive, winter hardy vine that yields mid-weight wines. Now used mostly in blends.

Cabernet franc (600 hectares in Ontario and British Columbia). Originally from Bordeaux this cool climate vitis vinifera grows well in Ontario. Yields fine, fruity, “spicy” wines if not over cropped. In cool seasons the wines can taste herbaceous. Mostly used in Bordeaux style blends (cabernet sauvignon, merlot and cabernet franc) as the “spicy” component. A few Ontario wineries produce cabernet franc varietals that are “juicy”, succulent, and very appealing. There are few wineries that produce a cabernet franc icewine with appealing texture and flavour.

Cabernet sauvignon (650 hectares in Ontario and British Columbia). Originally from Bordeaux it requires a long, warm growing season. When fully ripe it yields fruity wines (mostly berry aromas), mid-weight to full bodied that that age well. It is tannic and requires careful wine making and blending techniques. In British Columbia a few wineries produce outstanding cabernet sauvignon varietals and Bordeaux blends.

Gamay noir (220 hectares in Ontario and British Columbia). A native of Beaujolais in southern Burgundy. Yields fruity light wines if properly pruned. It requires warm growing seasons. Some wineries have been making gamay wines for a number of years but in general this delightful grape failed to capture the imagination of consumers.

Nebbiolo (less than five hectares in Ontario). Believe it or not one Ontario winery has been successful in growing this capricious thin-skinned grape originally from Piedmont in northern Italy.

Merlot (400 hectares in Ontario and 375 in British Columbia). A native of Bordeaux, this soft and fruity wine-yielding grape has been planted for a number of years, and is mostly used in meritage (cabernet sauvignon, merlot and cabernet franc) blends. Now some wineries use the term meritage, copied from California, instead of the term Bordeaux blend.

In British Columbia it ripens fully and smells reminiscent of plums yielding luscious wines. In southern Okanagan Valley merlot yields fine, dark-coloured and intense wines.

When over cropped, it yields neutral-tasting wine and needs a warm, long growing season. When unripe, the taste of merlot is disappointing.

Sangiovese, the most popular red wine grape of Italy, has been planted in Ontairo for experimental purposes. It is too early to say how it will evolve.

Syrah/Shiraz (50 hectares in British Columbia and 20 in Ontario). Syrah is the main grape of northern Rhone Valley where yields spectacular wines. In Australia where it is called Shiraz, it yields fruit-forward, dark, highly alcoholic wines that are blended with viognier (a white grape) to tone it down.

In British Columbia syrah grows well and yields intense wines. In Ontario it has been quite successful as it ripens early, providing vines were pruned for low yield.

Pinot noir is a native of Burgundy. This capricious grape needs a cool and long growing season and must be pruned for low yield. It is prone to mutation and susceptible to rot on humid days.

Pinot noir can yield fine wines in Ontario and British Columbia if planted on the right terroir and with the right clone.

Prince Edward County seems to have suitable terroir for pinto noir if yields are kept low. There have been some successful pinot noir wines in Ontario and British Columbia i.e Clos Jordanne, Closson Chase, Flat Rock, and Vineland Estates.

Zinfandel (under five hectares in Ontario). Originally from southern Italy, there called primitivo, it was transplanted in California and the name changed to zinfandel. It was the workhorse of the wine industry in California for a long time. Even today, a large area of land is devoted to zinfandel. Zinfandel can yield fine, spicy, dark-coloured, full-bodied, very flavourful wines but also very pale and off dry products pending on winemaking technique applied. Regardless, in Ontario, only a few growers have planted a few hectares for experimental purposes.

Zweigelt (under 10 hectares in Ontario). This Austrian crossing (Blaufrankisch x St Laurent) was developed by professor Zweigelt at the Klosterneuburg Wine Station and School of Oenology south of Vienna. It ripens early, yields generously and can be made to dark, fruity, age-worthy wines.
Pelee Island winery has been quite successful with this grape mainly due to the location of the vineyards.

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Although invented in 1970’s by a French butcher (Mr. Prelus) sous vide cooking has been slow in entering restaurant kitchens in North America and Europe.

It requires two pieces of equipment – a vacuum packing machine, and a water bath with an immersion circulator that regulates the temperature precisely.

Sous vide in French means under pressure, in actual fact it should be called precision cooking, since even one degree C difference in cooking makes an impact on the outcome.

This may be the reason why sous vide has been slow in penetrating commercial kitchens as most line cooks are blissfully unaware of the importance of precision.
Heat is the most important ingredient in cooking and sous vide cooking it rarely exceeds 85 C (185 F) which can result in great saving in energy consumption.
Heat is any transfer of energy from one body of system to another.

It is transferred by radiation, conduction or convection.

Induction cooking is the newest energy transfer technique, which occurs when a specially- designed and manufactured metal pot is placed above an induction coil. Induction coils work by electricity; they do not generate heat beyond the pot surface and are fast. Aluminium, glass or ceramic pots are not suitable.

Infrared heat is electromagnetic radiation and is used to keep plated food hot.
Microwaves heat by friction of molecules, i.e. dielectric heat. Microwave coking never browns food.

Percy Spence discovered it in 1940s in a Rytheon Research Laboratory. At first microwave ovens were huge and water-cooled. In 1947 the cost of a microwave oven was $ 5,000.00.

Microwaves heat more efficiently liquids than solid foods. No closed containers must be placed into any microwave oven.

Sous vide cooking is gentle and requires much less fat than conventional cooking. Food can be portioned precisely, cooked in advance, quickly chilled to 6 C (42.8F), refrigerated or frozen.

It prevents oxidation, and the food can be rethermalized, plated, garnished, and served.

The only setback of sous vide cooking is that it never browns food. This must be done after the sous vide cooking has taken place in an conventional oven.
The cooking temperature and tome can be regulated as required and even tough meat cuts can be rendered very soft by long cooking.

The bags for sous vide cooking should be at least .003 inches.

Anaerobic or aerobic bacteria can contaminate food, the former grow in oxygen-less environment, the latter require oxygen.

Salmonella, clostridium botulinum, e-coli 0157:H7 and listeria live in anaerobic environments, as is the case in sous vide bags, therefore food must be removed from the danger zone 4.4 C – 60 C (40 – 140 F) as quickly as possible. After cooking, immerse pouches in ice baths to bring the temperature down.

Bacteria thrive between 40 – 50 C (100 – 120 F) and double every 20 – 30 minutes. Most exist on the outside of the food, except in ground meat and eggs. (Bacteria are unicellular microscopic organisms that multiply by splitting. They cause cholera, syphilis, leprosy, tuberculosis, bubonic plague, salmonella, clostridium botulinum, e-coli 0157;H7, listeria just to name a few).

Viri are sub-microscopic and need a host to survive and thrive. A virus is surrounded by a protective shield and causes common colds, flu, chicken pox, ebola, sars, influenza and aids).

Cooks involved in sous vide preparations must be well trained, and very conscientious in their work to produce healthy and nutritious food.

Of all the bacteria mentioned above, clostridium botilinum is the most dangerous, being heat resistant, and thriving low oxygen environments. It attacks the CNS, and in most instances kills the individual exposed to it.

Sous vide cooking offers many advantages to restaurateurs, but must be exercised with due diligence. Keep sous vide cooked food up to three days refrigerated. For longer period the food must be frozen.

Important points to remember while cooking and storing cooked food.

Bacteria count can be minimized by refrigeration and keeping food of the danger zone.

Bacteria are on the exterior of the food, except for ground meat, chicken or turkey.

Buy the freshest meat and cook it as soon as possible.

Toxins on contaminated meat increase as storage period prolongs.

Toxins increase even on contaminated refrigerated meat, but at a reduced rate.

There are more than 2000 kinds of salmonella bacteria, which is highly heat resistant, is responsible for more than 1.4 million food poisoning incidences, of which several hundred are fatal.

Salmonella live in chickens, eggs and the intestines of animals, (clostridium botulinum is the most dangerous of all and is extremely heat resistant. It grows in low-oxygen environments, i.e canned foods etc. This is a concern of sous vide cooks.

E-coli 0157:H7 is dangerous bacteria found in meat and vegetables. It is responsible for approximately 60 deaths annually in the U SA.

It lives in the intestines of animals and is found mostly in meats and leafy greens.

Listeria is present in the soil and water. Pregnant women are particularly susceptible. In food processing plants, drains are the most prone locations.

Mostly hot dogs and products very finely ground processed meat at the cause of listeria.

Listeria bacteria cause septisemia, meningitis, and encephalitis. It attacks children, the elderly, and pregnant women.

Sous vide cooked food must be cold before placing it in the pouch and kept cold before cooking, but preferably should be cooked immediately.

After cooking food serve it immediately, or chill thoroughly and quickly, or freeze to take food out of the danger zone.

Sous vide cooked food can be refrigerated for up to three days.

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Argentina, South America’s oldest and largest wine producing country, has always cherished its products, and consumed much of what was produced. Once the most affluent South American county, Argentina’s population more than 90 litres of wine per captain, albeit quality was never close to European standards, but prices were low.

This large and agriculturally well-developed country experienced many economic and political upheavals. Wine quality suffered, prices were low ad exports negligible except eastern block countries i.e U S S R, Poland, and Czechoslovakia,
Spaniards found no vine in South America, unlike Eric the Red in the eastern shores of North America. Conquistadors being urged by the clergy, imported vines in 1532 and planted vineyards on the Atlantic Coast. The damp climate proved to be inhospitable for grapes and vines failed to thrive.

Later in 1550 vines were imported from Peru to Mendoza, but the largest imports occurred six years later, this time from Chile, on the other side of the Andean Mountain chain. The most important grape variety was criolla chica, a.k.a pais in Chile and mission in California. It remained the most popular in Argentina for three centuries.

Today Argentina has approximately 223,000 hectares under vines and plantings are increasing at a rate of approximately 5000 hectares per annum.

Salta (latitude 25 South), La Rioja (30 S), San Juan (32 S), Mendoza (33 S), Rio Negro (40 S), Littoral (35 S), and Entre Rios (31 S) are the main and well-defined regions.

Mendoza provides 75 per cent of the production and 90 per cent of exports, which are increasing exponentially due to their quality and low prices.

High altitude Uco Valley in Mendoza has become the most sought vineyard land due to its suitable soil and climate.

Malbec and Mendoza are Argentina’s strong wine cards. This grape variety originally form Bordeaux thrives on Mendoza’s terroir and yields extraordinarily flavourful and powerful but balanced wines.

A variety of vitis vinifera vines thrive including malbec, syrah, bonarda (from Emilia Romagna, Italy), merlot, pinot noir, cabernet sauvignon, tempranillo, for red and torronted Riojana, pinot gris, chardonnay, riesling and gewürztraminer for whites.
Torrontes with its floral and inimitable aromas appeal to millions of young wine drinkers but most be consumed within a year of harvest to enjoy it at its best.
In the past Argentina exported little and mostly bulk wine in tanker loads, as internal consumption was high enough to absorb of much that was produced.

In the past 20 years enlightened winery owners realized that quality and not quantity was the most important ingredient to succeed. They invested in research for suitable locations, imported modern equipment and most importantly sent winemakers to the U S A , Spain, Italy, and Germany to further their education and learn new techniques.

Exports to the U S A, Canada, the United Kingdom, European countries, Japana and China have increased substantially. (UK 42 per cent, U S A 15 per cent, Brazil 48).
The following wineries are recognized for their high quality products: Achaval-Ferrer, Finca Sophenia, Cheval des Andes, Catena Zapata, Monteviejo, Bodega Francois Lurton, Bodegas y Vinedos Pasqual Toso, Eral Bravo, Mauricio Lorca, Mendel, Bodegas Norton, O’Fournier, Finca Flichman, La Riojana, Altavista, Pulenta Estate, J A Zuccardi, Finca y Bodega Vistalba, Salentin, Nieto Senetiner, David Michel Torino, and Valentin Bianchi.

During a recent tasting the following wines stood out:

Malbec 2004 Tikal Amorio
Malbec, 2006, Don David Michel Torino
Malbec Reserva, 2000, Bodegas Norton
Codus, 2000, Nieto Senetiner
Malbec, 2004, Achaval Ferrer
Quimera, 2004, Achaval Ferrer
Nicolas Catena Zapata Cabernet/Merlot, 2004, Bodegas Catena Zapata
Gernot Lauges Malbec/Cabernet, 2003, Bodegas Norton
Synthesis, 2005, Finca Sophenia
Piedra Negra Malbec Gran Reserva 2004, Bodega F Lurton

The L C B O’s general list offers a small selection of Argentina wines, but the Vintages division releases contain several, excellent wines.
You can obtain Vintages bi-monthly release catalogues for free by calling L C B O or on-line lcbo.com

Guest Writer – Hrayr Berberoglu E-mail or interested in his books?.

1 J.P. Chenet Cabernet Syrah
2 Lindemans Shiraz Cabernet
3 Doppio Passo
4 Gato Negro Cabernet Sauvignon
5 Cantina Rossa 300 cl
6 Chapelle du Bois
7 Viña Maipo Cabernet Sauvignon
8 El Copero
9 La Boiselière (without vintage)
10 Da Luca Primitivo Merlot

Have you tasted this or another wine, you are welcome to add a dice/review; just click on the wine.

Never miss a post! subscribe via RSS or subscribe via e-mail.   Post writer – Morten – E-mail

One sure way to create new taste dimensions is the use of sauces and condiments. Sauces provide inventive cooks with the creative outlets needed to accentuate any staple. Sauces give free reign to restaurant operators to create a signature dish and new marketing opportunities. While everyone wants a comfortable atmosphere, excellent service and great tasting foods it is the latter that most often differentiates a restaurant and represents the reason for guest’s return.

Sauces are delicately, and sometimes strongly flavoured concentrated liquids designed to enhance and complement the taste of the main ingredient on the plate.

Many classically trained chefs regard flavourful sauces as the pinnacle of cuisine, both in skill and interest. Texturally and taste wise sauces provide excitement. Often, the most memorable part of a gastronomic meal is the sauce. The saucier in a large kitchen brigade is considered a key player, and often replaces the sous chef on his/her off days.

A sauce works like a seasoning. It enhances and accents the flavour of the food. A well-prepared sauce never overwhelms the main ingredient. Good cooks know that sauces are as valuable as salt and pepper. Even a grilled steak is tastes better with a dab of compound butter or a spoonful of Sauce Béarnaise.

Any skilled cook possesses the basics of good sauce making.
There are cold and hot sauces. Mayonnaise and others fall into cold sauces category, whereas Sauce Bordelaise falls into the hot. Then there are mother sauces from which several others are derived.

Mayonnaise can be flavoured with chopped parsley, chopped watercress, even curry. Artistic cooks know intuitively or by experience which flavours work with basic sauces and those that clash.

In hot sauces the stock represents the foundation. Stocks can be produced using beef-, veal-, chicken-, duck-, lamb- and fish bones and vegetables.
From beef stock chefs derive demi-glace which forms the basis of the following sauces: Poivrade, Madere, Bordelaise, Robert, Chasseur, Charcutiere just to name a few.

Béchamel based on a roux and milk represents the foundation of Sauce Mornay, Cream, Shrimp, Cardinal, Nantua, Ecossaise, and many others.
Sauce Hollandaise based on yolks, peppercorns, vinegar, butter and lemon juice is the foundation (mother) sauce for the following: Maltaise, Mousseline, Béarnaise, Foyot, Choron just to name a few.

Today many chefs prefer creating quick sauces by using pan juices of fried meats and wine by reduction. This technique has advantages. It eliminates lengthy stock preparations, and refrigerated space. Food manufacturers, ever astute to generate more profits, have invented semi-solid or powdered stocks and sauce bases for a long time now. They are designed for people with little or no cooking knowledge. Anyone who can read and follow a recipe can use these products. Some are good; many rely heavily on salt and little else.

Pending on the class of the restaurant chefs must make choices given monetary, space and skill constraints.

An expertly prepared sauce using the correct ingredients of quality will never fail to elevate any meat, fish or fowl recipe to heavenly heights.

Whatever flavour profile chefs choose, sauce is a sure way to flavour protein or pasta. Sauces provide ample opportunities for creativity, excitement and experimentation. That’s what diners look for, and restaurateurs delivering flavourful dishes reap the benefits of culinary excellence.

Never miss a post! subscribe via RSS or subscribe via e-mail.   Post writer – Hrayr Berberoglu – E-mail – Read his books?

It was a nice day to visit the exhibition; the weather was overcast with a little rain in the air. In Norway there are a lot of rules when it comes to alcohol. You can’t serve it for free to the public, so with the ticket which costs 150.-NKr. you got 10 taste coupons to go along. Additional you could buy 10 more for NKr. 100.-. And if you followed the rules strictly there it was not allowed to swallow the wine either. But there was no way anybody could follow up on that, so it was only done by the ‘professionals’ tasters.

One of the first stands we stopped at was at our friends in Italy ( Tenuta il Sogno ), where we spend the Easter. We had a nice talk to Frode, before we went on.

The wine.
There were taste samples on every stand, so we had the opportunity to taste a lot of wine. In most of the stands they had displayed the most common wines the company had for sale. So if you where hunting for something special this were not the place. For the average Norwegian wine drinker I do think there was a lot of a wine to sample. With a view of that the Norwegian red wine sale the bag in a box is almost 40% of the whole sale.

The stands.
There were friendly people at all the stands, which willingly told you about theirs product in and professional way, but still down to earth so that we all could understand.

Most of the stands had the character of men in suits, but there was some exception. As for ex. Cork Wines & Spirits. They had two friendly persons at the stand, witch we easily came in talk to. And the stand is what we will remember, with the largest cork we have ever seen.

After over two hours of strolling around, we thought that enough is enough. We delivered the glasses and the coupons that where not used back, got a little money back and drove home.

Altogether we had a nice day.

( Tone & Stian on the picture ).

Never miss a post! subscribe via RSS or subscribe via e-mail.   Post writer – Morten – E-mail

Wine was first produced in the Caucasus Mountains, although some researchers claim otherwise. Most scientists believe it was in Armenia that the first accidentally-made wines, was consumed.

Then came Babylonians, ancient Egyptians, Greeks, Romans who helped spread viticulture all over Europe and even North Africa.

Yet today, few Middle Eastern countries market their wines world wide for a variety of reasons – first internal demand increased, second North America, in general, is less interested in their wines.

Today Greece, Cyprus, Israel, Lebanon and Turkey produce considerable amounts of wine.

Bulgaria, Romania, Georgia and Armenia further east also produce a lot of wine, but geographically fall outside of the Middle East. Actually, the term Middle East has no geographical meaning, and was invented by English politicians for reasons of their own.

Of all the Middle Eastern countries, Greece produces the highest volume and by far the best, followed by Cyprus, Israel, Turkey, and Lebanon.

Although Turkey has 570 000 hectares under vines, most are table grapes for internal consumption and export. Of the 230 000 hectares of vineyards, the wine go to bulk export to European countries for blending, but today the quantity exported is much smaller, as Europe’s “wine lake” continues to grow exponentially.
Israel produces 266,000 hectolitres from its 17,000 hectares of vineyards. Both inhabitants and tourists consume much of the wine within the country. The United Kingdom is an old-well established market for Cypriot wines.

Greece, the largest and the best producer, in this writer’s mind, has improved quality in the last two decades. This was due to healthy capital injections from the European Union and wealthy Greek industrialists who suddenly discovered a love for high-quality wine. Try some of the wines of Gaia, Domaine Gerovassiliou, Alpha Estate, Kir-Yianni, Tselepos, Domaine Carras, Oenoforos, Boutari, even the co-operative in Lesbos is famous for its delightful sweet Muscat wines. You will be pleasantly surprised with the deeply flavoured wines of these wineries, but expect to pay higher prices than mainstream Greek products.

Greece, Israel, and Lebanon are the most advanced in vitiviniculture, but the potential of Cyprus is the best.

The eastern Mediterranean seems to have awakened in vitiviniculture after two millennia of slumber, and without doubt will catch most the New World wine producers in a few decades.

Grape varieties by country

Cyprus: Red Cabernet sauvignon, cabernet franc, carignane, lefkada, xinomavro, maratheftiko
White: Xinasteri, muscat of Alexandria, chardonnay, malaga

Greece: Kotsifali, limnio, madelaria, aghiorgithiko, xinomavro, cabernet sauvignon, merlot, syrah, mavrodaphne, tempranillo, touriga nacional.
Assyrtiko, athiri, malagousia, moschofilero, Muscat of Alexandria, robola, roditis, savatiano, chardonnay, sauvignon blanc, viognier

Israel: Cabernet sauvignon, merlot, shiraz, cabernet franc, carignane, petit syrah.
Sauvignon blanc, white riesling, emerald riesling, muscat of Alexandria, chardonnay, gewürztraminer.

Lebanon : Cabernet sauvignon, carignane, merlot, syrah, mourvedre.
Merwah, obadieh, sauvignon blanc, chardonnay

Turkey: Bogazkere, okuzgozu, papazkarasi, kalecik, cabernet sauvignon, merlot, carignane
Narince, emir, sultaniye, semillon

Wineries of note:

Cyprus: Keo, Etko, SDAP.
Israel: Yatir, Barkan, Seahorse
Lebanon: Chateau Musar, Château Ksara, Kefraya
Turkey; Kavaklidere, Doluca

Guest Writer – Hrayr Berberoglu E-mail or interested in his books?.

Felton Road Pinot Noir 2007.

Felton Road is one of New Zealand`s best producers. Located in Bannockburn, Central Otago, its vineyards nestle on a gentle north-facing slope between 200m and 335m and overshadowed by 2,000m mountains, their micro-climate benefits from low humidity, wide diurnal temperature variation and high sunshine hours.

This wine is among the 50 best new world pinot noir and the palate displays a plush, cushioned silkiness, with interplay of juicy, mouthwatering acid and ripe, rich raspberry and boysenberry fruit, offset with dusty bramble leaf. The finish is long and relatively complex for such a youthful wine, displaying minerals with dusty tannin and a kick of mocha and we absolutely love it!

Have you tasted this or another wine, you are welcome to add a dice/review in our wine guide
Winesworld.

Never miss a post! subscribe via RSS or subscribe via e-mail.   Post writer – Morten – E-mail

When the first settlers set foot in North America there was no cattle. They introduced the animal and it thrived on the lush meadows of the landscape.

Indians hunted buffalo which provided not only meat but also leather and everything else they needed.

For a long time ground beef was the predominant source of protein in North America, but unfortunately it has now been replaced by “manufactured chicken”.

Yet, marketers still try to revive the fortunes of beef. This is a multi billion dollar industry, or should I say was, as it covers many aspects of production starting with cattle ranchers, auction houses, transportation companies, slaughter houses, wholesalers, specialized meat packers, and retailers.

Of course, cattle feed producers, veterinarians and researchers also play an important role in this food chain.

A beef carcass consists of tender, semi-tender, and tough cuts. Sirloin, tenderloin, top sirloin, and ribs are the most tender, the chuck, round, legs and other parts require breaking down the tough muscles by marinating, a combination of ingredients, and various cooking techniques.

Tough cuts taste better, if cooked properly, and have more flavour. The more muscles are exercised the more flavourful the meat becomes, but the tougher it becomes.

One way of tenderizing meat is breaking it down by mechanical means, i.e grinding.
Nutritionally there is no difference between ground meat and tenderloin except for fat content.

Most ground meat consists of trimmings from a range of cuts – flank, brisket plate, round and chuck. Ground meat can be extra lean, lean, medium, or regular, pending fat content.

Some ground meat is produced using one cut only i.e. chuck, round, sirloin which tastes better.

Terms such as Angus, Kobe, Hereford, and Wagyu refer to cattle breeds. Ground beef marketed by cattle breed must contain a minimum of 51 per cent of the breed indicated, but often it is more. The taste of different breeds changes, and so does the texture, even though the meat is ground.

Extra lean or lean ground sirloin may contain anywhere from 10 – 17 percent fat, and is good for burgers and casseroles. Extra lean or lean ground chuck (10 – 17 per cent fat) can be successfully used for meatballs, to flavour vegetable stews, sauces, and for flavourful burgers.

Ground round (maximum fat 10 per cent) is good for meat loaves, stuffing vegetables like peppers, tomatoes, eggplants, zucchini, Savoy cabbage leaves.
Medium ground (maximum fat 23 per cent) and regular (30 per cent) is fine for broiling before using it to incorporate into a recipe.

Ground beef is economical, but it must be purchased from butcher shops that are owned and managed by professionals producing small quantities in a meticulously clean location and using super-clean grinders.

The more the meat cut is handled, the more it accumulates pathogens.

Wines to go with game meat. (click on game)

Guest Writer – Hrayr Berberoglu E-mail or interested in his books?.

Rosé wines were all the rage in 1970’s. People bought the most famous (Mateus) by the case and restaurateurs could not keep enough in their cellars.
A decade later, consumers turned to dry white wines, and now for many wine means red.

Although rose wines are less fashionable today than only three decades ago, they have their honourable place in the wine world!
They can be best described as ed wines with a white heart. They are refreshing, appealing, light and inviting. Many wine producing countries market rose wines, which may be blended or vinted from one single variety. Some brands are more successful than others, pending on their aroma, flavour, and texture profile.

France, Spain, U S A (particularly California), Portugal, Italy are the most famous rose producers. Surprisingly, Australians, South Africans, and New Zealanders don’t export much of their rose wines, probably because of the long voyage and the time it takes to get the shipment to retailers. These days with modern transportation and distribution systems this delay should be a relatively easy problem to solve, but costs a little more than the slower process.

Rose wines are delicate and ideally should be enjoyed within a year of bottling.
Some wineries blend white and red wines to create their rose wines. These are at best enjoyable but never offer the pleasure and depth of rosés made from red grapes after a short maceration.

In France, Tavel, in southern Cotes du Rhone, Provence and Loire are famous for their roses, although Bordeaux also produces some.

Tavel from the eponymous town is the best known of all in France and fetches priced than any other, but Provence’s rose wines should not be overlooked for they are excellent with practically any food, particularly when enjoying an impromptu meal in sidewalk cafes of Nice and other cities along the eastern Mediterranean coast of France.

Spain, a major producer and exporter, has been making this genre for centuries. Navarra, Penedes, and Rioja are the best-known regions followed byt eh Balearic Islands, La Mancha, and Extremadura.

In Spain tempranillo, monastrell a.k.a mourvedre, bobal and garnacha are the preferred varieties. Winemakers destem bunches, press the fruit, and ferment the must long enough for the wine to acquire the desired colour, a rd tinge, which is achieved in most cases in 24 hours. Then the temperature is lowered, and the must is transferred to another tank to preserve delightful primary aromas, which are derives from the fruit and its level of ripeness.

Vin gris (literally grey wine or onion skin coloured wine) comes from red grapes bunches pressed hole and processed after that as for white wine to end up with a very light wine.

Vina Tondonia in Rioja produces outstanding rose wines using garnacha, mazuelo, tempranillo grapes. They are delicate, deeply flavoured, pale rose in colour and delicious enjoyed on their own, or with local specialties including roast leg of lamb.

California’s Sutter Home winery invented the slightly sweet white Zinfandel, which is very popular throughout the U S A. The invention was in response to the decline of red wine sales, but bountiful supply of zinfandel. The company decided to create an off-dry wine resembling rose, but call it White Zinfandel.; it took off from the first day the wine hit the shelves. White Zinfandel remains popular and has converted millions of consumers to wine enthusiasts, as many turn to white and eventually red wines in search of more depth in wine.

Rose wines go well with pork dishes, cold cuts, roast chicken, turkey, cream cheeses, sandwiches of all types, pizzas, pastas and can be delightful thirst quenchers on hot lazy days relaxing on the patio.
Every year around May and June retailers offer a variety of roses from different regions.
The secret of enjoying these wines is their youth and hot weather.
Here are some brands you may want to try:

Monastrell Rose, 2008, Vina Honda, Jumilla, Spain – from Jumilla on Spain’s Mediterranean coast this superbly fruited wine will go well with paella, cold cuts and even Jabugo ham.
$ 14.95

Pink Slip Pinot Noir Rose, 2008, Megalomaniac Wines, Niagara, Ontario, Canada – lively rose vitned from 100 per cent pinot noir grapes with excellent strawberry aromas and medium long finish.
$ 14.95

Sketches of Niagara Rose, 2008, Tawse Winery, Niagara, Ontario
Strawberry aromas emanate from the glass. Earthy notes give this pale-pink coloured wine a special flavour.
$ 12.50

Chateau La Croix De Queynac Rose, 2008, Bordeaux – Bordeaux is better known for its red and sweet wines, less so for fine white and roses. This rose exclusively vented using cabernet sauvignon displays deep strawberry aromas, full body and layers of fruit in mouth.
$ 13.95

Tavel Rose 2008, Chateau D’Aquiera , Tavel, Cotes du Rhone – Tavel is one the most famous rose appellations of France. This grenache based rose is fruity, beautifully extracted with a fine texture. Enjoy on its own or with your favourite pizza, meat sauced pasta, meat sandwiches, and even an artfully roasted chicken.
$ 19.95

Guest Writer – Hrayr Berberoglu E-mail or interested in his books?.

The state California is blessed with abundant sunshine, fertile soil, and enthusiastic entrepreneurs who feed a good portion of North Americans with their produce and fruits.

Up to 1970’s the population ate regular non-descript American everyday food, heavy on meat, processed food, and refined carbohydrates. Then came Alice Waters who correctly recognized the bounty of the state, and by a laudable example in her restaurant (Chez Panisse) popularized a cuisine based on fresh, seasonal produce prepared and presented wit flair. Her culinary background is solid and French Provencal, which she successfully translated to California.

Enter Wolfgang Puck, a transplanted Austrian chef, and California cuisine becomes fashionable with the rich and famous. He literally catered to the actors, actresses, and movie moguls, who in turn made his food fashionable.

California cuisine as invented by Alice Waters advocates seasonality and freshness. There is nothing startling about this concept. Only one thing is remarkable, and that is fusing two or more cuisines. Like most of America, everything is taken from everywhere and put together in a new and appealing fashion on a large scale.

Essentially then, California cuisine is based on fusing culinary ideas from a variety of sources using fresh local foods enhanced by exotic hers and spices. Some of the recipes are inspiring, others may be considered over the top, like pizza with all common ingredients and pineapples, or with chucks of lobster tail!
Many California restaurant settings are spectacular, and people enjoy the environment, may be more than the food.

To sit in a garden patio setting, dining on butter-soft abalone, and a choice of 200 or more wines at your fingertips, is to understand that life gets no better, especially when the abalone, the baby lettuces, heirloom tomatoes in your salad, and the chardonnay or riesling grapes that yielded your wine, were grown down the road.

Inspired cuisine, aptly named California cuisine, is constant only in that it is continually reinventing itself. American consumers have a short attention span when it comes to food. They want new foods and combinations every few years and aspiring chefs deliver.

Infuse a state that produces a bounty of fresh fruits, vegetables, cheeses, seafood, and meats, with a rainbow of 200 plus languages and nationalities and you get pretty much every gastronomic fusion imaginable.

You can experience California cuisine by sampling from a roadside shack taco filled with seafood, or at Alice Waters Chez Panisse restaurant or French Laundry established by one of the chefs who worked for her.
It is an adventure and pleasantly revealing gastronomic experience to travel in California.

Guest Writer – Hrayr Berberoglu E-mail or interested in his books?.

Port enthusiasts everywhere know Fonseca for its extensive range of wines and quality of their brands.
The roots of Fonseca date back to late 1700’s, in a company known as Fonseca and Monteiro, located in the city of Oporto, Portugal on the Atlantic Coast some 300 km. north of Lisbon, the capital. The Fonseca family was of Brazilian origin, and traded in wine, olive oil, and garment with Brazil.
The company imported sugar, hemp, and other primary materials from Brazil, which was at the time a colony of Portugal.
The official foundation of Fonseca Guimaraens starts in 1822 when Manuel Pedro Guimaraens bought Fonseca, Monteiro and Co., but in the sale agreement Mr. Fonseca stipulates that his name be kept in
the name of the company in perpetuity.

This clause has been respected by the descendants of Guimaraens ever since.
Manoel Pedro Guimaraens was an ardent liberal and his political public musings forced him to flee Portugal in 1834 hidden in an empty port barrel to London England.
The head office of the venerable company remained in London for over a century. Here Mr. Guimaraens built a reputation for vintage ports and increased sales to unprecedented levels in the United Kingdom.

Meanwhile Quintas and vineyards were acquired. The Quintas of Fonseca are: Quinta do Cruzeiro, Quinta de Santo Antonio, Quinta do Panascal. (A Quinta is a wine farm or estate in the Douro Valley). The company is one of the few producing vintage ports exclusively from its own vineyards.
Fonseca is particularly well known for its vintage ports, Late Bottled Vintage (LBV), and tawnies.

Declaration of vintage in the Douro Valley is a complicated process and starts with the executive of the winery deciding that the quality warrants the vintage qualification. Only two per cent of all port wines produced are granted this attribute.
A vintage port is declared about three times in a decade. A “declaration” takes place when the producer believes that he has an outstanding wine. Nature plays a major role ion this decision. A cold wet winter is required, followed dry a warm dry spring and an intensely hot summer. Often it will not rain significantly from May through to September. Many of the greatest Vintage ports have been produced in years when there have been a few days of rainfall in late August or early September. This is very welcome, as it allows the grapes to swell slightly, the skins soften and the natural sugar levels rise. The grapes will then be in perfect condition for harvesting. Dry weather during the harvest is not only important but crucial to produce an excellent wine.

With ideal weather conditions and the most careful wine making, great ports can be made from the finest vineyards. The young port is left to age in wood. During this time it will be tasted so as to judge its true worth. If, after some 16 months, the wine lives up to its early promise, the producer will submit the wine to the Port Wine Institute for approval as Vintage Port. Here it must be tasted and approved by a panel of experts. The producer will then announce to the Wine Trade that he is ‘Declaring’ the vintage. A ‘Declaration’ will normally be made by most producers and/or shippers.. However this is not always the case, and sometimes a few producers will decide to declare while most others will not. This only adds to the interest of great Vintage Port. For years after, these wines can be tasted and the wisdom of the original decision debated around countless dining room tables as the port itself is savoured.

Vintage Port will be bottled, without any fining or filtration (one of the very few wines in the world not to undergo any treatment whatsoever prior to bottling) between July of the second year after the harvest and up to 30th June of its third year.

Guimaraens Vintage Porto

In the early 1950s, the rising demand for vintage Ports led Fonseca Guimaraens to create a second vintage Guimaraens label in “non-classic,’ or undeclared, years.

Guimaraens Vintage Porto is produced from the same three Fonseca quintas in the Cima Corgo which provide the backbone of Fonseca’s vintage Ports in declared years: Quinta de Santo Antonio and Quinta do Cruzeiro, both along the Pinhao River to the north of the Douro River; and Quinta do Panascal, along the Tavora River to the south. All three properties are A-rated, and were purchased by the firm in the 1970s; the former two had been under contract to Fonseca Guimaraens since the early 1900s. Because they are produced from wines from the same sources as the classic Fonseca Vintage Ports, Guimaraens Vintage Ports consistently show the classic Fonseca style.

While somewhat earlier maturing than Fonseca Vintage Ports, the fundamental difference between these and Guimaraens Vintage Ports lies in the latter’s “upbringing”. These are aged in Fonseca’s lodges in Vila Nova de Gaia and are only released for sale upon reaching maturity, which may be a decade or more after the vintage date. There is a considerably smaller blend of Guimaraens Vintage produced than of Fonseca Vintage Porto, and these non-classic wines, for their quality and rarity offer an exceptional value.

True to the Fonseca style, Guimaraens Vintage Ports are intensely rich and concentrated, with a voluptuous femininity and sublime, velvety texture. Beautifully structured and perfectly balanced, they show the superb marriage of power and breed for which the house of Fonseca Guimaraens is renowned. As all vintage Ports, they will continue to mature in bottle and throw a crust, requiring a careful decanting prior to serving.

Fonseca Vintage Port

Vintage Port is the jewel of every shippers portfolio, the most prized of all Port wines. It is generally accepted that the first vintage Port was produced in the late 1700s; the first generally declared vintage was that of 1775. The first Fonseca Vintage Porto was produced in 1847, and is considered today to be one of the classic vintage Ports of the nineteenth century.

The backbone of Fonseca Vintage Ports are the wines drawn primarily from Fonseca’s three quintas, all located in the Cima Corgo (the portion of Douro Valley most cherished and valued by port wine producers): two had been under contract to Fonseca Guimaraens since the early 1900s. The finest grapes from these quinta are blended with wines from other quinta long under contract to Fonseca to produce its classic vintage Ports.

The grapes are still trodden by foot in the stone ‘lagares’ of Cruzeiro, an extremely physically demanding and labor-intensive process but one for which no substitute has yet been found which will extract the maximum color, tannin and richness from the fruit. This point is of utmost importance, for the process of fortification entails the dilution of the wine by twenty percent of its volume with a colorless, odorless brandy. The concentration and quality of the base wines must therefore be absolutely perfect.

Fonseca Vintage Ports are renowned for their great richness and voluptuousness, and, while powerful and mouth filling, for their exquisite structure and femininity. In the context of each vintage, they combine the tannic dimension and great depth, which give great port its longevity with the breed, complexity and perfect balance that are appreciated all over the world by aficionados of this truly unique wine.

Guest Writer – Hrayr Berberoglu E-mail or interested in his books?.

Salute is the new name and format of Sante, the annual wine festival of Toronto. It is now locally more diversified, and offers opportunities to taste various lower priced, but still very attractive wines. During the tasting (open to the public) arranged at 315 King Street east, the following wines pleased my palate:

Cabernet Sauvignon, 2007, Chakana, Argentina
Dark red, brilliant, smells of ripe stone fruits, is full-bodied, balanced and with a long finish. Will benefit from two to three years of cellaring.
91/100
Available at Vintages.

Malbec Reserva, 2006, Chakana
Brilliant red colour, dried plum and stone fruit aromas, exotic spices, with hints of violet and chocolate make this wine eminently suitable for BBQ meat, or hard cheeses.
$ 17.95 Vintages

Alto Sur Malbec Reserva, 2008, Finca Sophenia
Attractive red with violet hues. Aromas of cherries, blue- and blackberries, and plums waft out of the glass. In the mouth, ripe tannins are evident. It has good intensity and flavour concentration with a long aftertaste.
90/100

Malbec Ultra, 2007, Kaiken
A superb, powerful, red wine, suitable for BBQ meat, game stews, hard cheeses.
91/100

Alto Sur and Kaiken wines are represented by Ontario@whitehall.ca

Pinot Noir, 2007, Closson Chase, Prince Edward County

Elegant, ‘juicy”, smells of raspberries and exudes refinement.
Available at the winery only
91/100

Syrah, 2006, Casa Marina, Chile
Excellent fruit, power, full-bodied, and with ample extract. Superb with flavourful meat dishes or roasted beef.
93/100
Private import by Ontario agent.

Guest Writer – Hrayr Berberoglu E-mail or interested in his books?.

Winemaking started as a simple craft millennia ago.
Grapes were harvested, crushed and pressed. The resulting juice was fermented and decanted, then it was consumed.
Soon people started to think of refining this rough-textured, but intoxicating beverage.
Eventually, barrel aging was discovered to render wines smoother ad more complex in taste. In the last 30 years advances in winemaking progressed more than in the previous millennia.

Some are listed below:
Tannin powder – flour, beans of tannin and chips are used during fermentation to add structure, mouth feel and stability of colour to red wines.
Barrels are made suing staves of different provenance
Bags of chips or chucks of wood wrapped in cheesecloth are used to improve flavour, and longevity of the wine
Different levels of toasting barrels contribute to a range of flavours, i.e medium toast contributes flavours of hazelnut, and maple syrup. In addition to these sweetness is also contributed.

Medium plus toast imparts coffee, pepper, tobacco, smoke flavours.
Heavy toast contributes roasted, smoky aromas of coffee, and persistence of flavour.
Untoasted American oak imparts vanilla and coconut flavours, light toast spices, brioche, fresh almond and cocoanut.

French is tight-grain and generally contributes the following characteristics in the finished wine – refined and elegant mouth feel, a hint oak to support the flavour of the wine, and “juiciness” that contributes to the appeal.
Untoasted French oak barrels stabilize red colour; light toast vanilla, gentle spices, cloves, cinnamon, roundness, richness; medium toast coffee, and chocolate; medium plus toast – toasty aromas, coffee, caramel, length on the palate.
In France, winemakers use the wood of following forests – Limousin, Troncais, Allier, Vosges, Jupille.

Canadian, Hungarian, Russian (Krasnodar), Nagorno Karabakh (Armenia), Romanian, and Slovenian oak barrels are also used by many winemakers in Portugal, Italy, the U S A, and other countries.
Occasionally, new staves are inserted into old and exhausted barrels to prolong their usable life.

Some winemakers use concrete egg-shaped fomenters; others use polyethylene tanks, yet others prefer portable stainless steel tanks.
American, particularly Californian, winemakers use the services of laboratories to remove a percentage of alcohol from a high-alcohol wine. It has been established that the same wine at different alcoholic strengths tastes different. The optimal point is called the “sweet point”.
Sometimes volatile acidity may be too high ad detectable by taters, and occasionally even by ordinary consumers. Volatile acidity levels are lowered by specialized procedures in laboratories.

Generally young and university-educated winemakers shun wild yeasts normally are on the skin of grapes. They perform unpredictably and occasionally stop fermentation, called “stuck fermentation”. Generally, wild yeasts are killed by the addition of sulphur dioxide. Cultured, i.e specially bred yeasts are more resistant to sulphur dioxide.
Packaging has been transformed, as are enclosures. Traditionally, cork was used, and still prefered by the majority of winemakers. Less expensive wines are enclosed with plastic corks of different formulas.
Some winemakers prefer glass enclosures, and of late many New World wineries (particularly New Zealand and Australia) and some European ones use specially designed, improved screw caps.
In the last few years, tetra pack has gained some popularity. The same can be said for PET (polyethylene threpthalate), but glass is still the most widely used material for packaging.

Tetrapack causes wines to become oxidized, and experts claim tetra pack packaged wines should be consumed within a year.

Guest Writer – Hrayr Berberoglu E-mail or interested in his books?.

Sardines have been underrated for a long time. Most people think of canned sardines as mushy meat because they experience them from time to time. Some canners overcook their products. Fresh sardines grilled on vine cuttings, or simply on a grill with a sprinkling of lemon juice, taste simply divine.

Sardines, anchovies, and mackerel are prolific and worldwide spread in the world’s oceans. In some regions they are over fished, but around the Iberian Peninsula sardines represent an excellent source of protein and fisherman exercise care not to over fish.
These days, eating small fish is a healthy choice, as big predatory fish contain mercury.
Sardines contain large amounts of omega-3 fatty acids (considered to be healthy), protein, iron, phosphorus, potassium and calcium.
Mediterranean sardines are larger than the Atlantic versions generally packed in Canada. Brislings are tiny, and in Baltic countries they smoke them.
Pacific sardines taste “bold” and to some the taste is unpleasant.
Sardine stocks fluctuate, and there is a 60-year cycle based on ocean temperatures. A good portion of the sardine catches end up in animal feed for pigs, chickens, and farmed shrimp.
Japanese are very fond of live sardines for their sashimi. Once caught the sardines are kept alive and arrive at restaurants at noon for hungry and appreciative guests.
Fresh sardines are best when grilled. In a pinch, frozen sardines will do. You can also wrap sardines in fresh vine leaves then grill them. They taste divine.
Like sardines anchovies are underrated. They travel in enormous schools and are simply vacuumed by huge modern fishing boats in the Mediterranean Sea.
Generally, anchovies have a mild taste; it is the processing that gives them their assertive piquancy. Around the Mediterranean in fishing ports they are fried, or filleted and served raw with salt and lemon wedges, olive oil and minced garlic.
Peoples living around the Black Sea for millennia enjoyed anchovies. Archaeologists have even unearthed salting vats around the Black Sea; they were used 2000 years ago.

Guest Writer – Hrayr Berberoglu E-mail or interested in his books?.