Organizers staged the first Cuvee in 1989 as a fundraiser for local charities but the event has evolved to lavish celebration of Ontario wines and foods.

The first Cuvee event attracted 350 guests and 16 wineries participated. Today well over 800 attend and 57 wineries pour their best wines, in the new Fallsview Casino’s lavishly furnished ballroom.

Many famous and local chefs demonstrate their culinary inventions to the delight of participants and wineries eagerly pour their award winning wines.

All Cuvee wines are blind tasted over three days by winemakers, with a panel of moderators and experts to break ties, or settle disputes.

Toronto Wine Writers are given an opportunity to taste the winners. The sit-down tasting is held in a quiet room, of the head office of a bank on the 68th floor of the First Canadian Place in downtown Toronto.

Although a range of white (dry and sweet) and red wines are poured, this year I decided to focus on red wines.

All are produced in very small quantities and generally available at the winery store or by mail in Ontario and for export.

If you are interested in any of the wines listed below contact the winery at your earliest convenience.

Here are my selections:

Merlot Reserve, 2007, Cattail Creek Estate Winery – vibrant red, subtle fruit aromas (cherries/berries) and long aftertaste. Cellar for two years.
90/100 $ 40.00

Onyx, 2007, Featherstone Winery – composed of 60 per cent cabernet franc, and 40 merlot. The wine exudes cherry aromas, is of a medium body and possesses a depth of flavour.
92/100 $ 29.95

Impromptu, 2007, Lailey Vineyard – a full bodied and balanced wine blended of syrah (68 per cent), malbec (12), petit verdot (12), and cabernet sauvignon (8). Excellent mouth feel with a long and satisfying aftertaste.
92/100 $ 45.00

17th Street Vineyard Pinot Noir, 2007, Tawse Winery – this single vineyard pinot noir from the Bench was fermented in large oak barrel and aged in 30 per cent new oak. Dark red, smells of strawberries, creamy texture, with depth of flavours and long aftertaste.
92/100 $ 58.00

Small Lot Benchmark Red, 2007, Thirty Bench Winemakers aged for 24 months in French oak this brilliant red wine, exudes ripe fruit aromas, is elegant and balanced. It would be excellent with a medium rare grilled steak or pepper steak.
91/100 $ 60.00

Estate Series Shiraz/Cabernet Sauvignon, 2007, Wayne Gretzky Estates a fine wine from the 2007 vintage, considered to be one oft eh best in the century so far. Vibrant red, smells of berries intermingling with oak, pencil shavings. Medium-bodied and well balanced.
Excellent value.
91/100 $ 22.95

Note : Clos Jordanne and Stratus wines were not presented, possibly all wines are sold out.

It is surprising that so many red wines of such high quality were produced and vinted in a province better known for its white and sweet wines.

Never miss a post! subscribe via RSS or subscribe via e-mail.   Post writer – Hrayr Berberoglu – E-mail – Read his books?

Sake (nihonshu in Japanese) has played a central role in Japanese culture for the past two millennia, although the production technique was first employed in the Yangtze Valley in China in 4800 B.C.

Sake is a fermented beverage brewed using koji mould (aspergillus oryzae) and yeast. It is a beer, although most western consumers think of it as wine, as it has no carbonation and is of a creamy clear colour.

The alcohol content of naturally brewed sake varies between 13 – 16 ABV (Alcohol by volume).

Sake starts with rive. There are 120 000 varieties of rice, but Japanese brewers (toji) believe that only 46 of them are suitable for brewing.

First, the rice is polished, a process that removes proteins and oils form the outer layers of the kernel and the core (starch) remains intact. The more rice is polished, the more congeners (flavour particles) are removed.

Some brewers polish kernel up to 50 per cent, others 40 or 30.The best sake rice is called yamadanishiki, the more common, sasanishiki.

After polishing, the rice is steamed and stored in a “culture room” to be inoculated with koji. The mixture “rests” for 48 hours and subsequently water and yeast are added to the koji-laden mixture.

Water is an important ingredient, and its purity contributes to quality and taste, as it does to beer.

Koji converts starch to glucose, and yeast converts glucose to alcohol. In sake production, these processes occur successively.

Steamed rice is added to the fermenting mixture along with appropriate amounts of koji, yeast and water for three successive days to keep the fermentation going, which can last anywhere from 14 – 42 days. In olden times, fermentation lasted 18 – 30 days.

This mixture is now called moromi.

Tradtionally fishermen were the brewers. Sake was brewed during witner months when fishing was impossible due to rough seas.

Modern breweries run all year and emloy brewers more knowledgeable about chemistry.

Once the fermentation stops, the mixture is drained. Traditionally, small quantities were placed in cheesecloth pouches and hung in kettles to accumulate the liquid, which is milky white. These days, filters are used.
After filtration, sake is pasteurized.

There are 1600 sake breweries in Japan in 46 prefectures (A prefecture is more or less a county and political administration unit).

Breweries are located from Hokkaido Island in the north all the way south to Kagoshima and Okinawa Island.

There are several sake quality levels:

Junmai rice is polished to 70 per cent of the original volume
Ginjo rice is polished to 60 per cent of the original volume
Daiginjo rice is polished to 50 per cent of the original volume
Junmai quality sake contains added alcohol; others may, or may not. Futsu, honjozo, ginjo and daiginjo contain added alcohol, whereas junmai, junmaiginjo, junmai daiginjo are natural.

Junmai, junmai daiginjo quality sakes smell fruity, are light, fragrant, complex, and refined. Some smell of apricots and peaches, are smooth with lively acidity, others may have an oily mouhtfeel, nutty flavours are off dry or completely dry.

Sake should be evaluated for:

Impact (sweetness or lack of it)
Fragrance
Texture
Complexity (earthiness etc)
Finish

Ordinary sake is never aged, tokutei meisho-shu (high quality) may be aged for a few weeks, and koshu is aged (according to the philosophy of the brewery. Kuro and taru sake are aged in wooden barrels for up two years.

Connoisseurs drink sake lightly chilled, and pour approximately 100 ml into specially designed ceramic containers. Some breweries recommend warming sake. This hides imperfections of the brew.

Store sake in a cool dry dark place, and no longer than a year
Sake does not improve with age, exceptions not withstanding.

Food and Sake pairings:

Fruity sakes go best with vegetable dishes, and moderately flavoured meats i.e poultry and fish.

Light ad refreshing sakes – freshly shucked oysters, baked fish, light seafood casseroles, and sushi.

Rich and full-bodied sakes – pastas with creamy sauce, flatfish fillets with creamy sauces, sautéed chicken, pan-fried tuna, and sashimi.

Ages sakes- beef or pork roasts, roasted root vegetables, braised veal with spicy sauce, fruit-stuffed roasted pork loin, duck breast with cherry sauce, and maguro tuna sashimi.

Sake keeps well for a few weeks, unlike wine, after opening.

The biggest sake brewers i.e Gekeikkan and Hakustsuru are most widely available practically all over the world, but of late entrepreneurs ins North America started opening breweries. There are now a few based in Oregon and small ones in Vancouver, British Columbia, Canada to satisfy demand, for freshly brewed sake.
In Japan artisan breweries abound and by all accounts brew the best-tasting sakes, i.e Takasago Shuzo, Akita Seishu, Yama Togava, Sudi Honke, Tentaka, Hakkaisan, Hitosuji, Narutotai, Tozai, Yoinotsuki, Umenishiki, Narutotai, Tsukasabotan, Tenkabotan, Imade, Yoshida, Tenzan, Toshima, Tokubetsu, Kanbara, Rihaku Nigori, Osake (Vancouver, British Columbia).

Multinational brew in a number of countries, some of their products are fine, but most are marketed on price only.

Japanese food (sushi and sashimi) has become popular in North America, but the cuisine is varied and offers many more gustatory pleasures.

Some are:

Chawan-mushi – steamed or baked savoury custard
Dashi – broth infused with dried bonito tuna flakes and kelp
Hamachi – yellow tail
Maguro – tuna
Mirugai – giant clam
Miso – fermented soybean paste, salt, and rice or barley
Omakase – chef’s choice menu similar to table d’hote in western restaurants
Ponzu – dipping sauce with lemon juice or vinegar
Soy sauce – sake, kelp and dashi
Tataki – spiced, seared and chopped tuna or beef
Tobiko – flying fish roe
Toro – fatty tuna belly
Uni – sea urchin
Wasabi – Japanese pungent horseradish usually served with pickled ginger and sushi
Yuzu – slightly acidic citrus fruit indigenous to Japan.

Fine sake brands you can buy with confidence. They may not be available in small cities. New York City, Los Angeles, San Francisco, Vancouver, Montreal, London, Frankfurt am Main, and paris offer the best choices in the west, and Tokyo in the east.

Hakkaisan, Mount Hakkai – Honjozo quality
Senchu Hassaku – Eight Point Plan, Tenkabotan Junmai quality
Gorgeous Plan Umenishiki Sake – Hitosuji, junmai ginjo quality
Naroto‘s Sea Bream, Narutotai, Junmai ginjo quality
Midnightmoon – Yoinotsuki , Daiginjo quality
Snow Maiden, Tozai, daiginjo quality
Livign jewel, Tozai, daiginjo quality
Dreamy Clouds, Rihaku Nigori junmai ginjo quality
Heaven’s Door, Tokubetsu, Junmai quality
Pride of the Fox – Kanbara, Junmai ginjo quality

Never miss a post! subscribe via RSS or subscribe via e-mail.   Post writer – Hrayr Berberoglu – E-mail – Read his books?

Canada, the second largest country in the world, stretching from the Atlantic -, to the Pacific- and Arctic Oceans, lacks the culinary fame of France, or Italy,
Medieval French from Normandy and Brittany, and English settled the country. In those days all were not noted for their culinary prowess, and ingredients in Canada were nowhere near to what is available now.

In the last 40 years, several European chefs trained many young, talented and eager cooks. Now they are the avant-gardes inventing new dishes and presenting them in very appealing and colourful ways.

Today, Canada represents an excellent tourism destination to Europeans and Americans for outstanding restaurants at considerably lower prices than comparable establishments in those countries.

The country offers well-functioning, clean and interesting cities i.e Vancouver, Victoria, Banff National Park, Toronto, Montreal, Quebec and Halifax.

The countryside is quiet, safe, and beautiful with sufficient space for thousands of tourists to share without feeling crowded, as is the case in many European destinations.

Here is am list of restaurants you can try and see what they offer and how much value they represent.

British Columbia

Araxi and Barefoot Bistro, Whistler

Vancouver

Cioppino’s Mediterranean Grill
Tojo’s
Vij’s
Blue Water Café
C-Restaurant

Café Brio, Victoria
Sooke Harbour, Sooke
The Pear Tree, Burnaby
The Pointe at Wickaninnish, Tofino

Alberta

Calgary

Capo,
Centini
River Café
The Belvedere
Bistro at Baker Creek between Lake Louise and Banff
The Post Hotel, Lake Louise

Ontario

Toronto

North 44
Canoe
Chiado
Oasie
Colborne Lane
The Fifth
George
The Globe Bistro
Lai Wah Heen
Mistura
Pangea
Scaramouche
Senses
Barberian’s Steakhouse and Tavern
Didier
Joso’s
Starfish Oysterbed and Grill
Zucca

Niagara-on-the-Lake

Treadwell
Tony de Luca
Andre’s Estate Winery Restaurant

Ottawa

Le Cordon Bleu
Beckta

Quebec

Montreal

La Chronique
Laloux
Le Club Chasse et Peche
Toque
Au Pied de Cochon
Chez l’Epicier
L’Express
Europa
Milos
Brunoise
Ferreira Café e Trattoria
Le Latin

Other fine restaurants in Quebec

Harvey Manor, North Hatley
La Pinsonniere, La Malbaie
Bistro Champlain Ste. Marguerite du Lac Masson
Derriere les Fagots, Laval
L’Eau a la Bouche, Ste. Adele
Restaurant Le Saint-Christophe, Laval

Quebec City

Laurie Raphael
L’Utopie
L’Initiale

Nova Scotia

Halifax

Chives
Da Maurizio
FID
Gio
Seven Wine Bar and Restaurant
Saege Bistro

Tempest, Wolfville

There are many other notable restaurant in provinces not mentioned above.

Never miss a post! subscribe via RSS or subscribe via e-mail.   Post writer – Hrayr Berberoglu – E-mail – Read his books?

Grapes grew wild and in some locations still do, for centuries before people in the Caucasus accidentally discovered wine. It was in the warehouses of King Jamshid, where bunches of grapes were stored in huge clay jars for the ruler to enjoy the fruit in the winter. He loved to eat grapes. One day, one of his many wives, feeling depressed and suicidal, went to the storage are and ate the fruit which was swimming in its own juice. She really thought that she would die, since the jar was marked “poison” to keep intruders at bay.

Instead, she fell asleep, and when she awoke the depressed feeling turned to joy.
Central Asian peoples have always enjoyed grapes – fresh or dried to raisin, and grew them in their lush valleys.

When the Soviets annexed Turkmenistan, Tajikistan, Uzbekistan, and Kyrgyzstan in 1930’s their first agricultural plans were to collective vineyards and make a lot of wine for Russia since it is too cold to grow grapes except in small regions around the Don River, Chechnya, Dagestan, and Krasnodar.

They laid out grandiose plans and proceeded to create huge state farms and co-operatives, introduced new grape varieties from Georgia, Moldova, Romania and other European countries, and cent their scientists to teach winemaking to locals.
The idea was to consume wine, and ship the rest in bulk to centres equipped with bottling lines to package the wine and distribute from there.

Soviet apparatchiks forgot one important aspect in this planning – most people in these now independent countries are Muslim and shun alcohol. A small percentage does drink, but more vodka and beer than wine.

Although vineyard acreage increased and wine quality improved somewhat, in the final analysis the industry never caught on a big way.

Now all these countries produce wine and supply Russian wineries, but the majority of the harvest is consumed as table grapes and made to raisin.

Turkmenistan, with a population of 5.1 million (89 per cent Muslim), and its capital of Ashgabat is a very small contributor to the Russian market, Uzbekistan with a population of 27.7 million (88 per cent Muslim) and capital of Tashkent, contributes more particularly to the Asian part of Russia.

Tajikistan is the smallest of all Central Asian countries with a population of 7.3 million (99.5 per cent Muslim) and capital Dushanbee, produces some wine, but uses the grapes as table fruit.

Kazakhstan is the largest of all formerly Soviet satellite countries with a population of 15.0 million (65 per cent Muslim) and capital Astana, is a relatively large wine producer and Russian Orthodox and other Christian minorities consume the local wine. The rest is exported to Russian and China.

Kyrgyzistan with a population of 5.2 million (75 per cent Muslim) and capital Bishkek, is a mid-level producer with respectable local wine consumption
Below find more detailed information about countries mentioned:

TURKMENISTAN’S WINES

This Central Asian republic between the Caspian Sea, Uzbekistan, Afghanistan and Iran, located between latitudes 38 – 41 north is a minor wine producer. The population of a little more than five million is mainly (90 per cent) Muslim, nine per cent Eastern orthodox Russians.

The vast Karakurum Desert occupies a large part of this hot and dry country.
Large diurnal temperature changes yield high acid grapes.

Winters are cold and summers warm to hot, with little rain, necessitating irrigation.
Greek and Roman writers reported grape growing as early as 300 B C in the Marghian Valley and in Aria. There are still wild vines in the ravines that have served as a basis for many indigenous varieties.

For centuries, the nomadic population resisted agricultural development, and only consented to settle after the country was annexed to the U S S R.
At the height of viticulture planted vineyards increased to 27 000 hectares.
The vineyards are mostly (70 per cent) around Ashkabad, the Mary- and Chardzahon regions.

Approximately 20 grapes varieties are cultivated, ranging from early to late ripening varieties to ensure continued harvest from June to October.

Of the 20 varieties, terbash, tara uzum Ashabadski, riesling, saperavi, kizil sapak, and bayan shirey are the most popular.

The population abstains from drinking alcohol but most of the wine produced goes to Russia and consumed locally by Russians.

A lot of the grapes are dried to raisin, some are consumed as table grapes.

TAJIK WINES

This Central Asian mountainous republic located between Uzbekistan and China has a considerable vineyard acreage, considering the fact that 98 per cent of the population is Muslim, and prohibited from consuming alcohol.

Located between 39 – 40 latitudes north, the climate of this land-locked country is continental with relatively mild winters on lowlands and valleys at 900 metres above sea level, and hot summers. Precipitation is sufficient to grow grapes suitable for making wine.

Viticulture and winemaking were already thriving when Alexander the Great, the famous Macedonian king, arrived with his army in the fourth century B.C.
Archaeologists unearthed documents certifying that numerous grape varieties were grown inthe country to make wine, vinegar, concentrated must (here called bekmez), raisins and table fruit.

In Osrushan- Ferghana-, and Zervshan River Valleys, viticulture was particularly well developed.

In the 1920;s, small vineyards were amalgamated to cerate large farms, which later became specialized delivering their fruit to wineries established in Leninabad, Pendzhikent and Ura-Tyube under Soviet guidance.

Tajikistan has three grape growing regions – Leninabad int eh north, the Ghissar Valley in the centre, and Vakhsh Valley together with Kuliab regions.

Most vineyards above 900 metre above sea level require winter protection, and some irrigation.

Of the 25 grape varieties allowed, the most important are: rkatsiteli, riesling, cagobi, bayan shirey, muscat rose, cabernet sauvignon, and saperavi; the last two are the most important.

The 50 wineries produce mostly sweet wines to satisfy Russian palates, the biggest market for them.

KYRGYZSTAN

This mountainous Central Asian country with a population of five-and-a-half million is located between latitudes40 – 41 north.

The country has three zones suitable for viticulture – Chuia – and Tallas valleys in the south, and Issyk-Kul depression. Chuia- and Talles Valleys are well-developed viticulturally, and enjoy a moderate climate with adequate rainfall.

Vineyards (10,000 hectares) are located between 600 – 1000 metres above sea level.

Grape growing is mostly geared for raising production, as Muslims like to eat them as snacks while travelling.

In the south, some vineyards are located up to 2000 metres above sea level, to escape suffocating heat, although the majority happen to be between 500 – 750 metres.

Practically all vineyards in Kyrgyzstan must be irrigated to yield an adequate amount of fruit.

45 varieties are recognized for wine making.

These include cabernet sauvignon, rkatsiteli, pinot noir, bayan shirey, kuljinski, riesling, saperavi, budeshiru tetri, mairam, mourvedre kirghizski, Hungarian Muscat, black muscat, cinsault, and Madeleine anegvin.
Much of the wine produced is exported to Russia.

KAZAKSTAN

This large republic south of Russia and bordering China, with its capital Almaty (Alma Ata), is now a member of the Confederation of Independent States (CIS).

The population of 18 million is largely (65 per cent) Muslim, with minorities of Roman Catholics, Protestants, Buddhists, and eastern orthodox Christians.

Although located between latitudes north 40 – 45 only a small percentage (four per cent) of the land is suitable for grape growing.

Viticulture goes back to the seventh century A D.

In the 1990’s, there were 20 000 hectares of vineyards in the country, cultivated mostly by state farms, planned and established by Soviet authorities to supply the republics and to create employment.

Today, vineyards are mostly in the Chimkent region with a climate suitable for viticulture. Irrigation is a must, as is winter protection.

Of the 43 grapes varieties allowed, 24 are table grapes. Popular varieties are rkatsiteli, Riesling, aleatico, kuljinski, saperavi, maiski cherny, pinot noir, cabernet sauvignon, cabernet franc, and rubinovy magaratche.

The country has the potential to produce sufficient quantities of table grapes to supply eastern Russia and produce enough for the local population, at least those who drink wine.

UZBEKISTAN’S WINES

This Central Asian republic, with a population of a little more than 27 million is a CIS member (Commonwealth of Independent States) and produces mostly table grapes, and approximately the same amount of wine as Kazakhstan to the north.

The capital, Tashkent, is famous for its architecture and mosques. 88 percent of the population is Muslim, nine Russian Orthodox, and small segments practising other religions.

The Ferghana Valley was famous for its luscious grapes as early as sixth century B.C., and exported to China to the east. The valley also grew cereal, using irrigation canals.

Arabs, Greeks, and traders brought in a few varieties to the Ferghana Valley from Iran.

Archaeologists discovered grape seeds, dating back to fifth century B C, near Samarkand in Tali Borzu.

Viticulture ad winemaking flourished up to the seventh century A. D. until the arrival of Arabs and Islam.

Then production was changed to table grapes and raisin production. Russians arrived in teh middle of the 19th century and introduced grape varieties from Moldova, and Ukraine (Crimea), Georgia, and other varieties to increase production.
In 1917 Uzbekistan had 38,000 hectares of vineyards mostly owned by individuals; three years later specialized large-scale state farms were established.

Uzbekistan is a mountainous country (30 percent of the land consists of mountains i,.e Tian-Shan, Pamir and Alai.

The climate is continental with mild winters and warm to hot summers with low precipitation in the lowlands. In the mountains rainfall is one metre, more than enough for successful viticulture.

Grapes are grown around Tashkent, Samarkand and Bukhara; these cities are also famous for carpet weaving with distinct designs.

Aleatico, riesling, Hungarian muskat, Muscat rose, soiaki, saperavi, bayan shirey, rkatsiteli, khindogny, kuljukski and morrastell are the most popular grapes.

Early and late ripening varieties were chosen so that there will be continuous harvesting for 120 days during the year.

Uzbekistan produces dry, powerful, dessert, and sparkling wines to satisfy local and Russian demand.

Ampelographer A. Negrul, and important viticulture expert, works with the Shreder Research Institute for Horticulture, Viticulture, and Oenolgy in an attempt to improve the industry and fruit quality.

Winemaking industry flourished with Russian expert help and to this day there are still many Russians and even Germans from before World War I who live and work there.

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Germans call pinot noir spatburgunder, literally late ripening red Burgundy, as opposed to early ripening Burgundy (fruhburgunder) version, which they also plant, but use it for blending only.

We know that Cistercian monks from Switzerland planted the first pinot noir. German Duke Berthold IV of Zehringen brought the vines to Germany and asked the good monks to plant them. The Cistercian monks’ order originates in Citeaux, Burgundy, and they were responsible for much of the good work accomplished in Burgundy with regard to establishing the best soil types, best sites and vitivinicultural practices at that time.

The Cistercian monastery in Malterdingen was founded in 1161. Vineyards on calcareous soils surrounded it with this capricious, thin-skinned, and late ripening variety. By all accounts, this vineyard still produces outstanding pinot noir in Germany.

The first large-scale plantings in Germany occurred in 1285, and now the country has 12 000 hectares spatburgunder vineyards third after Burgundy, France, and the U S A.

Before 1970, the Ahr Valley in northerh Germany had exclusively pinot noir vineyards that produced very pale, and delicate wines. Climate changes made german vienaydrs a little warmer, resulting in much better and better-balanced spatburgunder wines.

Today, the Rheigau, 200 km. East of Cote d’Or, harvests spatburgunder only five to seven days later than in Burgundy, and growers wait until grapes acquire sufficiently high sugar levels to quality for spatlese (late harvest) quality. In German wine law, quality is linked to natural sugar content ogf the fruit.

Wurttemberg and the Ahr Valley produce more red wine than white, and they are getting better at vinifying.

Kaiserstuhl on the east bank of the Rhine River is potentially and excellent region for pinot noir, and more and more wineries including co-operatives are producing pinot noir. Many of the young winemakers are university educated (Geisenheim, or Montpellier, or Dijon, or the U S A) and serve a “specialization” stint to Burgundy to learn from more experienced winemakers.

Recently, I tasted pinot noir from Rheigau that could be mistaken for a high-end red Burgundy, and the best thing about these wines is that they cost a fraction of their brethren from Burgundy.

Here are some producers that excel in making spatburgunder:Rainer Schnaitmann (Unterturkheim); Klaus-Peter Keller, (Dalsheim, Rheinhessen); August Kesseler (Rheingau); Fritz Becker, (Palatinate); Paul Furst (Franconia); Bernard Huber, Rainhold Scheider (Baden); and Werner Knipser (Palatinate).

All of the above are small quality-oriented, if not obsessed, wineries, and rarely export to Canada.

If you happen to be in Germany and close to the region, book an appointment with any of the wineries and taste their wines. You will be pleasantly surprised.

There are two more red grape varieties that deserve mention dornfelder, (a cross of helfensteiner itself a cross between fruhburgunder and trollinger, and Heroldrebe, a cross of blauer portugieser and lemberger), is a red-fleshed grape yielding dark red juice. It is an early ripening variety, crossbred by August Herold in 1955 at Wurttemberg’s Weinsburg Institute.

Regent is a relatively new hybrid of Diana (silvaner and Muller-Thurgau) and chambourcin. It resists fungal diseases and downy mildew, and was created by professor Gerhard Alleweldt at the Geilweilerhof Institute in 1967, but was only released in 1996.

Lemberger (a.k.a blaufrankisch in Austria, kekfrankos in Hungary) is widely planted. It is dark-skinned, ripens late, contains high levels of tannins, and yields fruity, spicy and masculine wines. Planted in Wurttemberg (Germany), Austria, the U S A, New Zealand, Switzerland, Australia and Italy.

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Once under the umbrella of Yugoslavia, this country on the Adriatic Sea has a long and varied vitvinicultural history starting with ancient Greeks who where probably the first to plant grapes in the region.

Croatia is located between 43 – 46 latitudes north bordering Bosnia and Herzegovina, Hungary, Slovenia and the Adriatic Sea.

The majority of wine produced is white, with some rose and little red.

Ranges of hills that follow the contour of the coast split vineyards.

Inland Croatia extends south and east from the eastern tip of Austria along the Drava River, a contributor to the Danube.

The Adriatic coast including the Dalmatian, Istrian Coast, and all the islands down to the idyllic town of Dubrovnik produces both red and white wines.

Istria in this region has vineyards planted to cabernet sauvignon, merlot, refosco, malvasia, gamay, pinot noir, and plavac mali.

Plavac mali is used to produce Dingac and Postup, both of which are high alcohol red wines with some aging potential.

Babic, posip, girk, vugava are minor varieties planted.

Marastino, a white grape, can be vinified to a fresh, light, and herbal wine if grapes are harvested early.

The government promulgated wine laws and defined 300 geographical entities for vineyards along western vitivinicultural philosophy of terroir.

While the laws exist, enforcement seems to be far from effective.

Most of the Croatian wines are low in acidity and “made” sweet for inexpensive export in 2 Litre bottles to Germany where a certain market exists.

Wine making technology was updated in 1950’s and lacks modern equipment, knowledge, and will to produce dry, refined and balanced wines.

The practice of “semi-communism” introduced by Josip Broz Tito has largely contributed to stop technological the evolution of the industry. Before this unfortunate historical event, the Ottoman Empire’s army occupied the region at the beginning of the 15th century and imposed anti-alcohol laws and Islamic culture upon the population, but tolerated Christian and Jewish customs of wine consumption, albeit both minorities were taxed heavily for the privilege of living there.

Since the disintegration of Yugoslavia, Croatia’s wine industry made great strides, but lack of investment represents major impediments to modern winemaking.

For white wines, growers prefer: chardonnay, debit, bratkovina, drne, kucrna, grasevina (welschriesling), grk, kraljevina, malvazija, muscat bijeli (white muscat), muscat zuli (yellow muscat), muscat Ottonel, pinot blanc, pinot gris, posip, rkatsiteli, traminac, and tramisvini (gewürztraminer), trebbiano Toscano, and verduzzo.

For reds the following varieties are planted: babic, barbera, cabernet franc, cabernet sauvignon, carignan, frankovka (blaufrankisch, lemberger, kekfrankos), gamay, grenascrini, St. Laurent, merlot, nebbiolo, pinot noir, syrah, refosco, zweigelt, and crljenak kastelanski.

Two grape varieties of importance in western winemaking originated in the region: krljenak kastelanski is the ancestor of primitivo of Puglia in Italy. It was transplanted to California by Puglisi immigrants and since then acclimatized to the terroir. It is called zinfandel in the U S A.

Gouais blanc is an ancient white, obscure white grape variety claimed to the mother of many now popular grape varieties i.e. chardonnay, aligote, auxerrois, bachet, franc noir, gamay noir, melon, and romorantin. It has many synonyms and has been crossbred with chenin blanc resulting in colombard; others are balzac blanc and meslier.

Recent DNA (deoxybonucleic acid) studies conform the ancestry mentioned above.

According to history researchers, gouvais blanc was given by emperor Marcus Aurelius Probus (born 232 – 282 and emperor from 276 – 282), from Pannonia, to Gauls who planted it close to pinot vineyards where many spontaneous crosses resulted i.e aubin vert, knipperle, and roublot.

Gouais was known as weisser Heunisch in the Middle Ages and planted in many vineyards of what is today France including Jura, but here it was wiped out with the invasion oft eh phylloxera vastatrix in late 18th century and never replanted.
In Geisenheim’s (the most famous school of oenology in Germany) experimental vineyards there are a few rows of gouais.

Montpellier (a reputable French school of vitivinicultural science) has a few rows as well.

According to the law three levels of quality exists,
Table wine
Quality wine
Premium wine

A part of the population is Muslim and does not drink wine; therefore the 36,000 hectares of vineyards yield too many grapes.

Exports to neighbouring countries is a must, and at prices that are much lower than they should be, if quality satisfy taste requirements in these markets.

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This large Eastern Mediterranean Island has been producing wine since 2300 B.C as archaeological excavations prove.

The evolution of winemaking can be conveniently divided into the following eras – Lusignan, Ottoman, British and since 1980.

During the Lusignan era, with the help of Armenian rulers of Cilicia in what is today southern Turkey, winemaking advanced and drinking was popularized.

When the Ottoman Empire (15th century) occupied the island, winemaking suffered a significant set back. Most of the vineyards were uprooted; some were kept for table grape production. This lasted until 1878 at which time the British crown started to govern. Winemaking came to prominence again. Britain was and still is a lucrative market for Cypriot wine.

When Cyprus became independent in 1980, the industry was forced to look for additional export markets. At the time there were only a few large wineries (KEO, ETKO, LOEL, and SOPAP), which produced wine more for export and especially for Britain.

Wine laws were promulgated to make dry wines more appealing to western palates:

Table winwes
Local wines (must contain 85 per cent of grapes grown in the area)
Protected designation of origin (yields and grape varieties are prescribed, maximum pressing limits imposed, aging periods defined).

Appellation of origin (Prescribes altitude of vineyard (600 – 750 metres above sea level), yields are restricted to 36 – 45 hectolitres/hectare pending on vineyard elevation) all vines must be five years or older, and regions are delimited.
Palomino and Semillon are popular white grapes.

Mavro, xynesteri, Malaga, shiraz, grenache, Alicate-Bouchet, cabernet sauvignon, cabernet franc, and carignan are popular red varieties.

Consultants from Spain, Italy and France have been invited to help produce more appealing table wines.

The most famous wine of Cyprus is Commandaria. It was produced before the 12th century and gained fame when Richard the Lionheart drank and enjoyed it during his wedding on the island. He claimed Commnandaria to be “ A wine for kings and king of wines”.

Commandaria must be produced exclusively using mavro and xynesteri grapes that are sun-dried for a few weeks, then crushed and fermented The minimum alcohol level is established as 15 per cent ABV and may be fortified to achieve that level, but this is rarely necessary given the climate of the region. Commandaria is sweet must be barrel aged for a minimum of four years.

Cypriot vineyards have never experienced phylloxera.

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Although this central European country is world-famous for its beers and there is enthusiastic public support for it, wine has been made and consumed since the Czech Prince Borivoj demanding the planting of vineyards in the 13th century. A century later, there were enough grape growers so that an association was formed to guard their interests.

Early on, white wines were popular, but in the 15th century tastes changed. Red wine consumption was the norm.

In the 20th century, Soviet domination made both inexpensive beer and spirits (mainly vodka) popular.

Since 1989 wine consumption gradually increased, as did quality.

The cool climate of the country (located approximately 48 latitude north) favours white grape growing, although some red grapes are also planted successfully in Bohemia.

During Soviet times, quantity was emphasised and high yields encouraged. Capitalization was allowed and widely practised. De-acidification techniques were not known, and many of the white wines were highly acidic.

Fermentation temperatures were rarely, if ever, controlled, and most of the wine was made in large concrete tanks, some of which lined with food grade paint, others lined with fibreglass. Stainless steel tanks were a rarity.

In Moravia, around the towns of Velke Pavlovice, Znojmo, and Slovacko the vineyards stretch for kilometres and constitute 94 per cent of all in the republic.
Bohemia’s small vineyards produce mostly white grapes – Muller-Thurgau, gewürztraminer, and pinot blanc.

The following white grapes are preferred” Muller-Thurgau, gewürztraminer, welschriesling, Riesling, sauvingon blanc, chardoanny, pinot gris, neuburger, Moravian muskat, fruhroter veltliner, and Irsai oliver.

For red wines growers prefer St Laurent, blaufrankisch, Zweigelt, pinot noir, blauer portugieser, and cabernet sauvignon.

The wine laws were designed after the German model and are:

Table wine
Country wine
Quality wine (varietal and brand separated)
Quality wines with attribute
Kabinett
Late harvest
Special select botrytis affected
Straw wine
Ice wine
Dry wines must contain no more than four grams of residual sugar per litre
Low alcohol wines up to nine per cent alcohol
Off-dry wines up to 12 grams of sugar per litre
Sweet wines minimum 45 grams
Czech wine production is mostly white (75 per cent) and the wines show good varietal character.

Most of the wine produced is consumed locally, since imported products are highly taxed.

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This Central Asian republic between the Caspian Sea, Uzbekistan, Afghanistan and Iran, located between latitudes 38 – 41 north is a minor wine producer. The population of a little more than five million is mainly (90 per cent) Muslim, nine per cent Eastern orthodox Russians.

The vast Karakurum Desert occupies a large part of this hot and dry country.

Large diurnal temperature changes yield high acid grapes.

Winters are cold and summers warm to hot, with little rain, necessitating irrigation.

Greek and Roman writers reported grape growing as early as 300 B C in the Marghian Valley and in Aria. There are still wild vines in the ravines that have served as a basis for many indigenous varieties.

For centuries, the nomadic population resisted agricultural development, and only consented to settle after the country was annexed to the U S S R.

At the height of viticulture planted vineyards increased to 27 000 hectares.
The vineyards are mostly (70 per cent) around Ashkabad, the Mary- and Chardzahon regions.

Approximately 20 grapes varieties are cultivated, ranging from early to late ripening varieties to ensure continued harvest from June to October.

Of the 20 varieties, terbash, tara uzum Ashabadski, riesling, saperavi, kizil sapak, and bayan shirey are the most popular.

The population abstains from drinking alcohol but most of the wine produced goes to Russia and consumed locally by Russians.

A lot of the grapes are dried to raisin, some are consumed as table grapes.

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In the 1990’s, chefs in Toronto and Montreal started to produce their own sausages, cured meats, and pates. Previously, practically all of these items were purchased, and most restaurants and food beverage operators continue to purchase them, some from small artisan producers others from huge nationally known manufacturers.

Pending on the skill of the sausage maker, and raw ingredients, home made sausages, taste better and look more appealing. Manufacturers use by-products that may be less flavourful, and chemicals to prolong shelf life.

The roots of the word charcuterie go back to French char cuite (cooked flesh), and includes sausages and salamis, bacon and ham, pâtés, terrines, and rillettes.
Charcuterie plates are easy to compose both at home and in restaurants. For home use, try to buy charcuterie from small butchers with in-house products, or those that offer them from artisan producers.

For each plate, two to three kinds of salami (there are literally hundreds of varieties from German, Italian, Hungarian, paprika, etc), two kinds of ham, one pate or terrine and possibly a rillette should suffice.

A plate of charcuterie requires strong and assertive wines. You can choose between a dry sherry, or an amontillado, or dry sparkling wine.

The category of sausages contains fine- or coarse-grained salamis, which may be spiced with garlic, or herbs, or exotic spices, sweet or hot, or scented with smoked paprika. Then there are German wursts and Italian salami, ranging from mortadella (occasionally containing unsalted pistachio nuts) to superrich cotecchino.

Italian who emigrated and settled in other countries always start sausage manufacturing companies, groceries, restaurants and/or import Italian food when the demand warrants it. To Italians, food represents life itself, and most, if not all, firmly believe that Italian foods taste best.

In Toronto and Ontario in general, there are many Italian sausage manufacturers. Bona foods is one of the many with a range of salami and cured meats (prosciutto).

Their sausages were awarded three prestigious awards at the Ontario Meat Processors Finest Meat Competition in 2009. They were for the Paisanella salami, sweet Italian sausage and round pancetta in the cured meat category. Bona Foods products are widely available in Ontario, British Columbia, Alberta, Manitoba and Quebec.

Niagara Food Specialties was started brothers Mario and Fernando Pingue in Niagara specializing in Italian charcuterie i.e prosciutto, San Daniele ham and other sausages. All are made according to old and cherished recipes in Niagara.

Cured meats include prosciutto, Spanish Serrano ham, speck, Westphalia ham, Black Forest ham, duck prosciutto, Bundnerfleish (air dried beef), coppa, bacon, pastirma, not to be confused with pastrami.

Top quality cured meats offer delicious sweetness, underlined with salt. Cured meat flavour and quality depends much on the breed of the animal and diet it had in the last few weeks of its earthly life.

Spanish pata negra ham has a slightly funky nuttiness because these small, semi-wild, black-footed (pata negra pigs) forage on acorns and beech mast for a few months before slaughter.

Pigs for prosciutto are fed with parsnips, and Virginia’s Smithfield, they forage on peanuts.

Smithfield ham originated in Isle pf Wight County in the Hampton Roads of Virginia, and today comes mainly from Smithfield in North Carolina. It is cured, smoked, processed and shipped all over the U S A.

Speck is smoked pork fat; Westphalia ham is appropriately smoked, as is Black Forest ham.

Bundnerflesich, a specialty of Switzerland’s Graubunden is air-dried beef tenderloin.

Bacon from specially bred pigs, when it is appropriately prepared is delicious.

Pates consist of finely ground meat, or liver enhanced with herbs and/or spices and alcoholic beverages (i.e cognac, whisky etc) and baked.

Pates can be light and evanescent, but also converted to mousse by whisking in an attempt to add air into the mixture.

Pates produced by skilful artisans, taste great and may be of fattened goose liver, or duck liver, pork liver, or rabbit and are usually encased in a pastry to absorb the fat during baking. Practically all are preserved with gelatine to prolong shelf life.

Terrines are chunky and of coarse texture, nevertheless delicious if produced using only appropriate parts of the carcass.

Headcheese, and pork pie are terrines that enjoy popularity in England and Germany. They happen to be inexpensive and often contain parts of tongue, cheeks, and other parts of the head of the animal.

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This Central Asian republic, with a population of a little more than 27 million is a CIS member (Commonwealth of Independent States) and produces mostly table grapes, and approximately the same amount of wine as Kazakhstan to the north.

The capital, Tashkent, is famous for its architecture and mosques. 88 percent of the population is Muslim, nine Russian Orthodox, and small segments practising other religions.

The Ferghana Valley was famous for its luscious grapes as early as sixth century B.C., and exported to China to the east. The valley also grew cereal, using irrigation canals.

Arabs, Greeks, and traders brought in a few varieties to the Ferghana Valley from Iran.

Archaeologists discovered grape seeds, dating back to fifth century B C, near Samarkand in Tali Borzu.

Viticulture ad winemaking flourished up to the seventh century A. D. until the arrival of Arabs and Islam.

Then production was changed to table grapes and raisin production. Russians arrived in teh middle of the 19th century and introduced grape varieties from Moldova, and Ukraine (Crimea), Georgia, and other varieties to increase production.

In 1917 Uzbekistan had 38,000 hectares of vineyards mostly owned by individuals; three years later specialized large-scale state farms were established.

Uzbekistan is a mountainous country (30 percent of the land consists of mountains i,.e Tian-Shan, Pamir and Alai.

The climate is continental with mild winters and warm to hot summers with low precipitation in the lowlands. In the mountains rainfall is one metre, more than enough for successful viticulture.

Grapes are grown around Tashkent, Samarkand and Bukhara; these cities are also famous for carpet weaving with distinct designs.

Aleatico, riesling, Hungarian muskat, Muscat rose, soiaki, saperavi, bayan shirey, rkatsiteli, khindogny, kuljukski and morrastell are the most popular grapes.

Early and late ripening varieties were chosen so that there will be continuous harvesting for 120 days during the year.

Uzbekistan produces dry, powerful, dessert, and sparkling wines to satisfy local and Russian demand.

Ampelographer A. Negrul, and important viticulture expert, works with the Shreder Research Institute for Horticulture, Viticulture, and Enolgy.

Winemaking industry flourished with Russian expert help and to this day there are still many Russians and even Germans from before World War I who live and work there.

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Nuts are popular with the majority of the population, but for vegetarians they represent a welcome textural, nutritional, and flavour change.

Generally, nuts grow in tropical and subtropical climates, contain significant amounts of fat and are best to buy unshelled.

Due to their high fat content, nuts are often roasted and salted. Nut aficionados prefer to buy their favourite food in the shell and to enjoy them at their best.
Shelled, processed, and packaged nuts tend to turn rancid, particularly if they are stored in warm environments (storage and retail stores).

North Americans consume peanuts, almonds, filberts, pecans, walnuts, pistachios, Brazil nuts and chestnuts in large enough quantities to warrant wide distribution.
Young people turning vegetarian help increase nut consumption and wider availability. For vegetarians, nuts are important. The body produces naturally, most but not all the essential amino acids. Meats provide all, and do some nuts.

Peanut (arachis hypogaea) (ground nut, earthnut) is technically a legume but regarded as a nut. These nuts contain more protein, minerals and vitamins than beef liver and are fatter than heavy cream.

The pods ripen underground and are commonly 25 – 50 mm long with two to three seeds in them, oblong, roughly cylindrical with rounded ends. The shells are spongy. Native to tropical South America, peanuts were introduced to China, West African countries, India and the U S A by missionaries, adventurers, conquerors, and entrepreneurs looking for profitable crops.

West African countries and the U S A produce significant amounts of peanuts on sandy, well-drained loam soils.

Peanuts are grown mostly for oil extraction. Peanut oil has a very high smoke point, and thick texture, which Chinese chefs like for wok frying. Peanuts are used in bakery products, candies, and as snacks. They are marketed salted and roasted in the shell, roasted and salted, honey roasted, and in form of peanut butter.

Some cattle ranchers feed peanuts to their animals, and in Georgia pig farmers allow their animals forage on harvested peanut fields. Pigs, ‘finished’ by eating peanuts yield extraordinarily flavourful hams for which Smithfield in Georgia is famous.
A relatively large percentage of the population is allergic to peanuts.

Almonds (prunus dulcis) are native to southwestern Asia and may be sweet or bitter. The almond three grows larger than the peach tree, lives longer and is beautiful in its fine green-white leaves. Sweet almond trees thrive between latitudes 28 – 40 N and 20 – 40 south.

Jordan and Valencia in Spain are famous for their tasty almonds, but the U S A, Spain, Italy, Iran, Portugal, and Morocco are large exporters.

Manufacturers use bitter almond oil as a base for flavouring extracts and liqueurs. Almonds contain small amounts of protein, iron, calcium, phosphorus, vitamin B and high amounts of fat.

They are available fresh, ground and mixed with sugar in almond paste, slivered, slivered and toasted, whole, roasted and salted, salted and skinned, and covered in sugar paste.

Buy almonds in the shell for freshness. Shelled California grown almonds are fine if purchased from stores with a high turnover. Classic French recipes use almonds, as do many Asian cuisines. Almonds are considered to be the tastiest and most nutritious of all nuts.

Almond oil is used in perfumes, soaps, and as food flavouring.

Filberts (hazelnuts) are native to the North Temperate Zone. The tree grows up to 36 metres in height, but today commercial growers restrict growth to three to six meters for ease in cultivation and harvesting. Filbert trees grow best on well-drained soils and require abundant sunshine.

The brown roundish or oblong nut is generally one to four centimetres long and may be marketed in the shell, shelled, shelled and skinned, shelled, skinned, salted and roasted, and roasted.

Europeans produce hazelnut butter sold under the brand name Nutella.

Turkish hazelnuts from Trabezun on the Black Sea coast and from around Barcelona in Spain are considered the tastiest and used in fine chocolates. Oregon in the U S A is a large filbert producer and exporter. Hazelnuts are used in pastries and for out of hand eating.

Brazil nuts (paranut, butternut, cream nut, castanea) is the edible seed of a large South American tree and one of the major traded nuts in the world. The hard walled fruit is eight to 18 centimetres in diameter and globular in shape. The woody capsule contains eight to 24 nuts, arranged like the sections of an orange. Each is covered by a very hard, thick, brown shell and triangular. Brazil nuts are very high in fat and proteins. Ripe capsules fall to the ground and are easy to harvest. Nuts are removed, dried, washed and shipped. The Brazil nut tree can reach 45 metres or more in height.

The nut is best purchased in shell. Those shelled and stored in warm storage rooms have a rancid taste. The pecan (carya Illinoinensis) tree belongs to the walnut family and is native to the temperate North America. Occasionally the tree reaches a height of 50 metres with a trunk measuring two metres in diameter.

The nuts have brown mottled shells and vary greatly in size from 100 – 500 per kilogram. Shape varies from long, cylindrical with a pointed apex, to short, and roundish.

Pecan possess a rich a distinctive flavour and texture with a high content of fat of any plant reaching levels of close to that of butter.

The U S A is the largest pecan producer in the world (Texas, Nebraska, Iowa, Indiana, Alabama, Georgia and Mississippi). South Africa and Australia also grow pecans, but only for local consumption.

Pecans are widely used in pastry production, pies, candies and confections.
Walnuts are native to southern Europe, but grow in North and South America and the West Indies. Black walnuts (jungland nigra) grows in eastern U S A and England whereas junglans regia (common walnut) in the Caucasus including Persia, Armenia, Azerbaijan, Turkey, Georgia and Italy.

The Black walnut tree is 20 – 30 metres in height with a 60 – 90 centimetres trunk diameter.

The nut contains a sweet, oily seed and is enclosed in a yellow green husk. The tree matures slowly (many take up to 150 years) and can live up to 250 years. It needs fertile, well-drained soil.

Walnuts are marketed in the shell, shelled as nutmeat and in pieces.

Walnuts are used in pastries, ground in cakes, may be dipped in caramel, and pressed for fine-textured oil mostly used in salad dressings.

Walnuts should be stored in cool areas to prevent rancidity.

Cashew nuts are appended to the cashew apple. This subtropical evergreen tree likes fertile soil and high humidity, and can reach 12 metres in height. The half moon shaped, bean thick nut appended to the cashew apple can reach two-and-a-half centimetres in length.

Native Central and South America, the cashew tree was transplanted by Portuguese missionaries to East Africa and India in the 15th and 16th centuries.

The fruit is pear-shaped and the nut grows at the end of the fruit which is three times bigger than the nut. The rich and distinctively flavoured oily nut must be salted, roasted and/or dried for preservation. Cashew nuts feature frequently in Indian chicken and vegetarian dishes for flavour and textural contrast. Chinese cooks also use cashew in a number of chicken dishes.

In western cuisines, cashew nuts are seldom, if ever, used, but people eat them out of hand, particularly in roasted and salted form while enjoying beer.

The pistachio tree or shrub belongs to the cashew family, and is considered to be at home in Iran. Commercial pistachio (pistacia vera) are used for food, and grown in warm and temperate climates. Pistachios grow from Afghanistan to the Mediterranean.

California is a large producer of pistachio, but the best tasting specimens originate in Persia.

The tree grows up to a height of nine metres. The white fruit grows one-and-a-half to two centimetres long; they tend to split at one side without discharging the nut, a greenish kernel in a thin, tightly adhering reddish skin. Female and male trees are planted in a 1:5 ratio to ensure adequate pollination.

For most, pistachios are the most refined of all nuts in taste and texture.

They are marketed in the shell dyed red, or not, shelled or ground. Pistachios are used in fine pates, baklavas, in pastries, candies, and in some Italian sausages.

Pistachios contain high amounts of fat, and must be stored in cool areas. It is best to buy pistachios in shell.

Chestnuts are native to the temperate regions of the northern hemisphere, and can reach a height of 30 metres. European chestnuts native to Eurasia and Northern Africa are called sweet or Spanish or Eurasian chestnut, as distinct from Chinese chestnut which can reach a height of 18 metres and grows up to an altitude of 2400 metres. The bur-like fruit contains two to three nuts, enveloped in a shiny, thick brown inedible skin which can be removed after boiling or roasting.

Most chestnuts consumed in North America are imported from Italy (Abruzzo), and only in season November to December.

In Europe, chestnuts are candied, pureed, ground to flour, roasted or boiled. Chestnut puree is used in soups or pastries. The flavour and texture of chestnuts are pleasant, distinct, mild and floury. Best season in Europe is from October to January.

Macadamia an evergreen tropical ornamental tree originates in the coastal rain forests of north eastern Australia, but today grow in South Africa, Zimbabwe, South and Central America. Hawaii is a major producer.

There are two species (smooth and rough shelled). Macadamia trees like rich, well-drained soils, and require a minimum of 130 centimetres of rain annually. Macadamia trees can reach a height of 18 metres.

Ripe nuts fall to ground, harvested, machine hulled, dried, roasted and salted for preservation. Macadamia’s contain high levels of fat and must be marketed roasted and salted for wide distribution. The nuts contain high levels of calcium, phosphorus, iron, vitamin B, and 73 percent fat.

They are difficulty to grow, slow to bear and with limited range of suitable terrain. These nuts are in short supply and high in price.

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Nerses Tairian, a Yerevan businessman, who started a winery in 1877, distilled the first brandy in Armenia. The brandy was distilled ten year later.

He was successful in marketing the product within Armenia, and retained the services of a Moscow distributor, who decided to purchase the distillery in 1898. Mr. Nicolai Shustov popularized the brandy in Russia so that even today 85 per cent of all the brandy exports of Armenia go to Russia.

Armenian brandy became so popular that there were 15 distilleries in 1914, but six years later all were nationalized.

After the annexation of the country to the U.S.S.R. , the market grew by leaps and bounds in the Soviet Union to the extent that by 1980 42 plants and branches in the Soviet Union were blending and packaging Armenian brandy.

A significant quantity of brandy was exported in bulk to Moscow and Leningrad (St. Petersburg) for bottling. A few outlets also blended bulk Armenian brandy with those from other sources of inferior quality. This practice caused significant problems after the U.S.S.R. dissolved. Some plants continued to source inferior spirits from other countries and market them as Armenian products. Armenian brandy, particularly YBC brandy, was always associated with high quality.

Soviet politicians were very fond of Armenian brandy, and all embassies featured them in their receptions. All high level bureaucrats in the country and abroad consumed copious quantities of Armenian.

Stalin was also very fond of Armenian brandy, as was w. Churchill who consumed liberal quantities daily along with champagne (Pol Roger) and Scotch whisky.
Stalin shipped a case of Armenian brandy to Churchill annually.

During Soviet times, the Yerevan brandy Factory (now called Yerevan Brandy Company) was the only entity enjoying the unabashed support of politicians and bureaucrats.

It is located on a hill and in an imposing building.

Pernod-Ricard, a French wine and spirits conglomerate bought YBC in 1998 for $ 30.0 million, including two distilleries in Armavir and Aijevan, and all the brandy inventory in warehouses, with the promise to spend an additional $ 5.0 million to improve production, packaging ad employee benefits. This amount increased to $ 50.0 million in the last decade.

YBC uses mainly Ararat Valley grapes grown on 700 metres above sea level on a variety of soils (30 different types).

The following grape varieties are used – voskeat, rkatsiteli, garan dmak, mskhali, and kangun. These grape varieties yield their best, with the exclusion of rkatsiteli, which originates in Georgia, in the Ararat Valley.

After the fermentation, the high-acid wines are distilled twice in their patented stills and aged in Caucasus and Nagorno Karabagh oak barrels which are tight-grained and less tannic than others from Russia and elsewhere in teh world.

Since the purchase of the distillery Pernod-Ricard improved packaging, and brands have been extended to include – Ararat 3 and 5 years old; Ani 6; Oktemberyan 7; Akhtamar 10; Prazdnichny 15, and Nairi 20.

YBC exports 91 per cent of the production to 25 countries including Australia, Belarus, Bulgaria, Canada, the Czech Republic, Estonia, France, Germany, Georgia, Israel, Japan, Lithuania, Mongolia, Poland and Kazakhstan and has increased volume and marketing efforts considerably.

The second biggest distillery is Great Valley, an Armenian and Cypriot joint venture with six plants in the country and extensive aging warehouses.

The Great Valley distillery brands are three to five year old basic brands, 6 year old Great Valley, 7 Kars, 8 Gavar, 10 Ashtarak, 15 Yerevan, 18 Collectors, 25 Arin Verd, and Tsar Dikran a blend of 12 – 30 year old brandies.

The following wineries and distilleries produce and market brandies – Proschian Cognac Plant, Avshar, Aregak, Yegnard Winery and Cognac Plant, Stepanakert Brandy Factory, Ashtarak Brandy Factory, Vedi Alco, Ijevan Wine factory, Merdzavan Alcohol Beverage Co., Mets Syunik Wine Factory.

YBC was awarded several international gold, silver and bronze medals for quality and flavour in teh 20th century in London, Paris, and Brussels.

Armenian distillers market their brandies as Kanyak (the spelling of cognac in eastern European countries).

To date, cognac distilleries in France have not disputed the legitimacy of the practice.

Armenian brandies are smooth, smell of apricots, exude purity of flavours, and are free of additives (tannin powder, caramel for colour homogeneity etc.) often employed by distilleries of other countries.

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This fertile land’s vitivinicultural history goes back to pre-Christian centuries. The long occupation of Ottoman Turks slowed wine making and the development of the wine industry.

Bulgaria’s modern wine industry started approximately in 1890’s and three decades later consisted of thousands of small grape growers delivering to co-operatives, which were more interested in quantity than quality.

Since then, the development of the Bulgarian wine industry was linked to the soviet demand, and later Comecon (The soviet common market) economics and politics.

Vinprom (since 1930’s) was the only government agency in charge of importing and exporting wine.

Much of the private acreage was expropriated and combined to cerate huge tracts of land and vineyards with an objective to produce quantity at lowest cost possible.
In 1960’s, agricultural–industrial complexes were producing cereal, grapes, fertilizers pesticides, rice, fruits, and vegetables.

Regardless of this arrangement, new grape varieties like cabernet sauvignon, sauvignon banc, rkatsiteli, welschriesling, merlot were introduced to satisfy external demand. This was done mostly to increase exports and to take advantage of the recognition factor of these varieties in western markets.

The Soviet government helped install stainless steel tanks, bottling lines, refrigeration, filters in an attempt to encourage Bulgaria to produce sweet sparkling and sweet still wines for which there was huge demand in Russia.

Since 1989, the Bulgarian government has been trying to return vineyard parcels to their legitimate owner who could prove their claims. This is a long and convoluted process, which may take still several years.

Wineries were privatized, and some sold to western European corporations.

During Soviet times American capital, provided by Pepsico in exchange for marketing privileges Pepsi Cola in Bulgaira, facilitated the involvement of University of California at Davis experts to advise the industry. Pepsico was interested in marketing Bulgarian wines in the U S A, and for the plan to succeed quality and consistency were important. American experts advised wineries on these points.

Now Vinprom is disbanded, the Russian market a shadow of its former self, and the industry in great difficulty with inventories of sweet- and sweet sparkling wines which few western countries are willing to buy.

Regardless Bulgaria, a small country stretching from the Black Sea to Slovenia approximately 300 km. and from Varna to the Romanian border for 200 km, has the potential to produce fine wines, and over time, this will be achieved with expert help and western capital.

The country is now a member of the European union, and has launched wine laws more or less along the lines of appellation controlle of France and Denominazione di origine controllata of Italy.

The laws distinguish:
Basic light wines
High quality (mostly branded wines)
Special wines
Declared geographic region (DGO)

Controliran wine is the equivalent of France’s AOC. Reserve quality white wines must be barrel aged for a minimum of two years, and reds for three.

Grapes are grown throughout Bulgaria’s five regions.

Eastern region extends from the Black Sea coast from Burgas to the Romanian border and west to Khan Krum. The region has three sub-regions – Northern Seacoast, Southern Sea- coast and Inland.

Northern Plain Region extends south of the Danube River, which forms the border between Romania and Bulgaria. It has three sub-regions – East, Central and West. This region’s vineyards represent 30 per cent of all acreage and grow mostly red grapes.

Sub Balkan region around the city of Sliven is famous for its melnik variety.

A southern region is located north of Greece and has vast vineyards for red grapes.

Southwestern region shares borders with Slovakia.

For red wines gamza (kadarka in Hungary), mavrud, melnik, pamid, cabernet sauvignon, pinot noir, saperavi, and senzo (cinsault) are planted along with experimental varieties to determine which ones thrive and yield better wines.

For white wines dimiat, misket, rkatsiteli, feteaska, welschriesling, muscat-Ottonel, chardonnay, sauvignon blanc, gewürztraminer, aligote and ugni blanc (trebbiano in Italy) are planted, Misket is a cross of riesling and dimiat.

Now there are more than 50 wineries; some owned by German and Italian interested.
The most famous ones are: Blue Ridge, Domaine Boyar, VINI, Telish, and Targovischte.

Bulgarian wines of Soviet times were deliberately low priced, and of mediocre quality, to capture market share in western markets.

People now expect Bulgarian wine to be less expensive at all times even if quality warrants a high price.

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The Mosel River winds for 544 kilometres from its source in the Vosges Moutnains of France, where it is called Moselle. Over the centuries the Mosel has carved thourh rock and slate to create one the world’s greatest terrois for white wine.

The Riesling wines produced here are known for their delicacy, aromas, low alcohol, vibrant acidity, crisp freshness, elegance and refinement.

Riesling, without the shadow of a doubt, is the best white wine grape of Germany, and arguably, of the world. Some wine critics maintain that of all grapes Riesling expresses terroir best and German winemakers always say that fine riesling is made in the vineyard and not in the winery.

Germany has 13 wine growing regions, but only two of worldwide fame – Mosel and Rheingau.

For my money, Mosel is slightly better than Rheingau when it comes to finesse, delicacy and aromatics.

The winding Mosel, after incorporating Rivers Saar and Ruwer at Trier, is not only beautiful, but offers incomparable vistas of vineyards and landscapes on which to plant vines. Many are on steep slopes, where only nimble humans can navigate up and down. At the end of each harvest, many hours are spent to lug was earth up on the slopes. While in many flatland vineyards 400 hours of labour suffices to tend one hectare throughout the year ad harvest the fruit, in the Mosel approximately 1800 hours are needed pending the location.

Although costs are higher than elsewhere in Germany and in most other regions of the world, Mosel wines cost on average much less than others products. This is because in the past insipid and inexpensive Mosel wines were exported, and millions still think these libations sweet and cloying.

Actually, Mosel wines range from off dry to sweet, but all are balanced, low in alcohol, are aromatic and refreshing. They contain sufficiently high levels of acidity to render then refreshingly light, and never too sweet.

On both banks of the entire Mosel River there are vineyards pending on aspect of the location.

The best single vineyards on the Mosel are located in the Middle Mosel stretching from the town of Bernkastel to Urzig. In this section the river, the best and most famous vineyards are located. i.e.

Leiwener Klostergarten
Trittenheimer Laurentiusberg
Trittenheimer Apotheke
Trittenheimer Altarchen
Piesporter Goldtropfchen
Burglayer Kappelchen
Burglayer Gunterslay
Burglayer Rosenberg
Wintricher Grosser Herrgott
Brauneberger Juffer
Bernkasteler Graben
Bernkasteler Schlossberg
Bernkasteler Doctor
Bernkasteler Bratenhofchen
Graacher Himmelreich
Graacher Domprobst
Zeltinger Himmelreich
Wehlener Sonnenuhr
Urziger Wurzgarten

These vineyards of excellence are based on three factor; climate, mineral-rich slate and volcanic soils, and age of vines.

They constitute the building blocks of fine wines. There are many wineries in the Mosel region. Some have vineyards and buy grapes from growers; others rely exclusively on the fruit of their properties.

The best known and reputable wineries are: J J Prum, A S Prum, Dr Loosen, Dr H. Thanisch, Pauly Begweiler, Wegeler, Egon Muller, Zilliken, Markus Molitor, Max Ferdinand Richter, Selbach-Oster, Studert-Prum, Reichsgraf von Kesselstatt.
Dr. Loosen is one fo the best and most reswpected wineries int eh reigon with single-vineyards in bernkastel, Graach, Wehlen, Urzig, and Erden.

In Bernkastel, the vineyard is called Lay, the soil of which is mostly slate, but heavier and deeper than in Wehlen and Graach. The vineyard is on a gentle slope, and produces richly textured, assertive wines.

Graacher Himmelreich faces south and west, and contains deep soils. The wines combine elegance and a rustic strength with mineral undertones, which contribute to their cellaring potential in successful vintages. Spatlese and Auslese quality level wines of this vineyard can be cellared for decades.

Before modern watches were invented all along the Mosel River sundials were located atop the vineyards. They were the public clocks that one can still see in some Middle Eastern countries for the benefit of the population, who cannot afford to buy a watch.

The best locations were always where the sun shone the longest and most intense. Naturally, these happened to be the best vineyard sites as well.

There are only few sundials (Sonnenuhr in German) left along the Mosel.

Wehlener Sonnenuhr has 65 hectares of steep, slate covered slopes that face southwest. The slate absorbs the sun’s heat and keeps radiating after sunset. This single vineyard enjoys Grand cru status among Mosel single-vineyards.

It has very thin soil, and the purest blue slate of any vineyard in the region, ad which is responsible for the minerality, along with a delicate and crisp acidity that balances the white peach and lemon aromas. Wehlener Sonnenuhr from selected plots is aristocratic and elegant.

Urziger Wurzgarten is extremely steep and leis in a bend of the river resembling an amphitheatre. The wines are exotic with aromas of tropical fruits, and earthy. The soil is red volcanic and is covered with slate.

Erdener Treppchen is so steep that steps had to be carved to facilitate workers’ movements. The iron-infused, red-slate soil produces muscular and complex wines with intense minerally finish. They should e bottle-aged for a few years to achieve their flavour potential.

Dr. Loosen’s Erdener Treppchen wines are marketed in kabinett, spatlese, auslese, beerenauslese and eiswein quality levels.

Erdener Prelat measures 1.75 hectares and yields some of the best wines of Mosel. The vineyard faces south and the soil is composed of red slate, yielding wines of unequalled power and nobility. The location and the river ensure exceptional ripeness in every vintage. Quality levels marketed by Dr. Loosen are auslese and above.

NOTE: Dr. Loosen is involved in a joint venture with Château Ste. Michelle in Washington state that produces phenomenally aromatic, elegant and deeply flavoured Eroica Riesling.

Never miss a post! subscribe via RSS or subscribe via e-mail.   Post writer – Hrayr Berberoglu – E-mail – Read his books?

Burgundy, in eastern France, is small but enjoys worldwide fame for its white and red wines. Most are produced using chardonnay for whites, and pinot noir for reds.

Aligote, pinot blanc, and gamay are also employed. Gamay is planted exclusively in Beaujolais. Blends of Passe-tout-grain contain mostly pinot noir and a small percentage of gamay.

Burugndy’s vineyards are relatively small and may be owned by several individuals. At last count Clos de Vougeot has 72 owners who shared 56 hectares of vineyards. Some may own as little as few rows of vines, and just sell the grapes to a negociant or winery. This situation is the result of Napoleonic succession and inheritance laws that have not been changed for centuries.

Burgundy marketing used to be the domain of shippers with capital who could afford to finance sales trips to potentially lucrative markets. The following are only a few that come to mind Bouchard Pere et Fils, Bouchard Aine et Fils, J. Drouhin, L. Latour, Remoissenet.

Now small producers and even small negociants can afford to travel and offer their wines to importers.

Having tasted Burgundy wines for many years, I can emphatically say that small producers make more focused and fine wines, and offer them at reasonable prices.

Pierre Andre, a relatively small Burgundy producer, owns several outstanding vineyards, i.e Corton, Corton-Charlemagne, Gevrey Chambertin, Vosne Romanee, Meursault, and Pulighy Montrachet distributing mainly to high-end restaurants in France and Belgium and discerning consumers.

Pierre Andre has been exporting to many countries in Europe and now has decided to market its wines in Ontario. All wines described below are private order, and may take up to seven weeks to arrive. The minimum purchase is one case.

Bourgogne Chardonnay, 2008 excellent fruit (apples and pears), medium-body with perceptible minerality typical for Burgundian chardonnay. Long aftertaste.

86/100
$ 19.95

Meursault, 2007 superbly crafted, from this small appellation. Ripe apple and pear aromas waft out of the glass. In the mouth, the wine reveals good minerality and layers of flavours with a fine acid backbone. Long aftertaste. An excellent wine  for pan-fried fillets of flatfish, poached salmon, breast of chicken Marechal, and veal scallops.

92/100
$ 69.00

Puligny-Montrachet Les Pucelles, 2007 smells of peach/apricot toasted bread and mineral aromas greet the nose. Texturally, the wine is smooth, unctuous and creamy. Elegant and refined with a long satisfying aftertaste.

93/100
$ 132.00

Corton-Charlemagne, 2006 This is a memorable wine. Aromas of vanilla and ripe peach and apricot emanate from the glass.

Medium-bodied, with layers of flavours that upon up in the mouth. Smooth and balanced with  long and pleasant aftertaste.

A wine to remember for a long time.

95/100
$ 172.00

Bourgogne Pinot Noir, 2008
Dark red, berry aromas dominate. In the mouth, liquorice and vanilla flavours are evident.

Light, clean with a lively acidity. Excellent value.

88/100
$ 15.95

Savigny-les Beaune Clos de Guettottes Monopole, 2008 this fully enclosed vineyard belongs to the company; the reason for the word “monopole” on the label.

Aromatically, the wine opens up with strawberry, vanilla and black currant aromas. Intense flavour, medium-body, layered and refined.

It is ready to enjoy but can be cellared for two or three years.

88/100
$ 45.00

Pommard Clos de la Commaraine Monopole, 2007 another monopole wine. Dark red and brilliant. An elegant, fruity, with pepper and nutmeg nuances. In the mouth, chocolate, vanilla and mocha flavours become apparent, due to 14 months in medium-toast barrel aging. Smooth, intense and concentrated.

Enjoyable now, but can be cellared for four to five years.

92/100
$ 85.00

Corton Les Renardes, 2007 ruby, brilliant. Aromas of cherry, red currant, pepper and liquorice stand out. In the mouth, chocolaty flavours underlined with spice become evident. Soft and elegant, refined and powerful, with an excellent finish.

93/100
$ 122.00

For orders please contact Bruce Maclean

Bruce.maclean@wineworldimproters.com
www.wineworldimporters.com

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Recently, Wine Writer’s Circle of Canada organized an Ontario chardonnay tasting titled Seriously cool.

There were (limited edition) 32 chardonnays which winemakers considered their best efforts. One was 1998 vintage from Southbrook winery, and very fine, still in excellent condition.

I have always thought that the future of Ontario’s wines lies in cool climate white wines and icewines.

However, in another article on red Ontario wine, which I wrote just before this one, the quality has improved beyond recognition in the last decade.

Overall, I can state that in general, Ontario chardonnays of today can stand on their own, and compete with the best in the world. They are subtle, elegant and refines.
Few are just above 13 per cent alcohol, and most hover around 12.5 ABV, which is just fine for a well-balanced wine.

Here are the best in this tasting and available through the wine winery store or by mail in Ontario and export only.

Steve Kocis Vineyard Chardonnay, 2007, Closson Chase Winery – superb apple and pear aromas, medium bodied, elegant and refined with a pleasant and long aftertaste.

92/100 187 cases produced $ 44.95

Quarry Road Vineyard Chardonnay, 2007, Tawse Winery an excellent effort from this quality-oriented establishment. Aromatic, full bodied, balanced and deeply flavoured.

93/100 377 cases produced $ 35.00

Robyn’s Block Chardonnay, 2007, Tawse Winery Selected from the best parcel of Tawse’s vineyards, this single site fruity wine stands out with its depth and elegance.
Would be superb with boiled lobster and drawn butter, or a poached fillet of salmon with mayonnaise and capers.

93/100 349 cases produced $ 42.00

Tete de Cuvee Chardonnay, 2007, Hidden Bench Vineyards and Winery The owner of this small winery is fanatical about quality and purity of fruit in his wines. This wine is no exception and lives up to the expectation of excellence in fruit, texture and balance.

93/100 220 cases produced $ 35.00

Chardonnay, 2008, Lailey Vineyard Lailey has always been a meticulous grower, and now with the help of the winemakers (Derek formerly of Southbrook), the wine shines through.
This wine from the 2008 vintage smells of apples and pears. In
the mouth, smooth and elegant with tingling minerality the wine shows its true refinement.

92/100 95 cases produced $ 40.00

Triomphe Chardonnay, 2008, Southbrook, Organic Made in state-of-the-art new winery, this excellent chardonnay is proof positive that Ontario’s vineyards can produce outstanding wines. This one offers pure chardonnay (apple/pear aromas and pleasant minerality), full body, fine balance and delicacy.

91/100 $ 21.95 550 cases produced

CSV Chardonnay, 2003, Cave Spring Vineyards Aromas of ripe pears and apples dominate. In the mouth, minerality becomes evident. Full bodied, balanced and pure, reflecting the bench terroir.

94/100 150 cases produced $ 30.00

CEV Chardonnay, 2006, Colio From Lake Erie North Shore appellation this chardonnay shows how well grapes ripen if yields are kept within reasonable limits. This single vineyard chardonnay is balanced, delicate, fruity, and finishes beautifully.

90/100 1100 cases produced $ 15.35

Cuvee County Chardonnay, 2008, Rosehall Run The first time when I tasted this wine last year I was impressed with its delicacy, refinement and depth. Now the wine shows even better balance with the fruit and oak melding nicely.

92/100 200 cases produced $ 17.95

ONTARIO ICEWINES

Riesling, 2007, Sue-Ann Staff Estate Winery Dried apricots and peach aromas waft out oft eh glass. Medium-bodied, superbly balanced and a delight to savour.

$ 45.00 375 ml.

Cabernet Sauvignon, 2007, Eastdell Estates Now that winemakers know have acquired sufficient experience in icewine technology, more and more are making red icewine. This one exudes intensity and balance with an extremely long aftertaste.

$ 34.95 200 ml

Vidal, 2007, Reif Estate Winery This winery is known for its precision and achieving purity of flavour. Vidal, in comparison to Riesling, yields fine but not exquisite icewine. This wine is an exception. The intensity of dried fruits, and smoothness in the mouth coupled with depth is simply wonderful. The price/quality ratio is very favourable.

$ 46.95 375ml

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