Burgundy, located on the fringes of the northern hemisphere wine belt, produces inspiring libations in good vintages. Historically, three to four vintages every decade yield extraordinary wines, the rest are either acceptable or below average. The 2006 vintage was one of the better ones since the beginning of the 21st century. Vintage 2006 in Chablis, Burgundy was overall very successful. July was hot, even scorching, particularly during the second half of the month. August was rainy with showers. Hot and dry weather returned in September accelerating ripening and necessitating harvesting early (on the 13th and finishing nine days later).
Harvesting, at least at W. Favre, one of the best Chablis producers, was by hand and the old vine vineyards yielded superbly flavoured, ripe grapes, which are reflected in the wines.
In all the years of tasting, I can safely say that the consistency of all W. Fevre Chablis is remarkable.
The vintage in the Cote d’Or was overall successful with some outstanding wines. July was sunny and hot, while August turned out cool with showers throughout the month. September was warm and grapes ripened well. Overall rot was minimal (five per cent) and at Bouchard Pere et Fils was easily solved by double sorting.
Wine enthusiasts watch Burgundy vintage reports with great interest and purchase accordingly. Those who neglect to buy according to vintage quality end up paying too much for their bottles.
Bouchard Pere et Fils is one of the oldest Burgundy shippers with 130 hectares of vineyards, of which 12 hectares are rated grand cru and 74 premier cru.
Grand cru classified vineyards yield superb wines even in mediocre vintages, and outstanding quality in good vintages. In 1995 Bouchard Pere et Fils was purchased by the owner of Henriot, a famous champagne house, who invested substantial amounts purchasing new barrels and modern technology. Quality has improved appreciably since.
In Burgundy, more than anything else, the reputation of the shipper plays a great role as a guarantee of quality. Reputable shippers never put their name on the label of a bottle with poor quality wine. They safeguard their hard-earned reputation. If the vintage turns out to be poor, many will sell their inferior wines in bulk to other shippers, and only bottle the ones that are better than the average and hence acceptable or pleasant to drink.
Bouchard Pere et Fils enjoys an excellent reputation and the name on the label should provide sufficient reason to be sure that quality is in the bottle, yet every vintage produces wines that are less than good. At Bouchard Pere et Fils less than good wines are remarkably few.
Meanwhile, W. Fevre, a renowned Chablis producer was acquired, with the objective to producing elegant and balanced wines.
Luc Bouchard visits Toronto, Montreal every year in March or April to provide samples of the impending release. This year’s line up of 2006 was remarkable, and prices reasonable.
Here are my recommendations:
W. Fevre, Chablis
All Chablis (Chablis Domaine $ 30.00; Chablis Beauroy Premiere Cru $ 40.00; Chablis Montmains Premiere Cru $ 45.00; Chablis Vaillons Premiere Cru $ 51.99; Chablis Fourchoume Premiere Cru $ 51.00; Chablis Mont de Milieu Premiere Cru $ 51.00; Chablis Bougros Grand Cru $ 90.00; Chablis Bougros Grand Cru $ 99.00, Chablis Bougros Cote de Bouguerots Grand Cru $ 99.00; Chablis Les Preuses Grand Cru $ 99.00, and Chablis Les Clos Grand Cru $ 112.00) were fruity, exuding apple and pear aromas, balanced, refined, with long aftertaste. All offer remarkable complexity.
The prices are reasonable considering quality and the small quantities produced.
The Grand Cru Chablis can be cellared for two to three years but are ready to enjoy with appropriate foods.
Serve at 12 – 14 C and never too cold if you want to appreciate the subtle qualities of this superb vintage.
Red wines
Beaune du Chateau Premier Cru
Exudes strawberry aromas, evolves in the mouth, is elegant and balanced. 91/100, $ 50.00
Beaune Teurons
Offers an excellent mid-palate, is elegant, and smooth with berry aromas dominating. Long aftertaste.
91/100, $ 64.00
Volnay Caillerets Ancienne Cuvee Carnot
Bouchard Pere et Fils owns 30 per cent of the appellation and always produces well-balanced wines from the old vines of the site. This particular bottle with a mid-weight palate and succulent texture, exuded strawberry aromas,
92/100, $ 96.00
Volnay Clos des Chenes
Excellent depth, fruit and extract. Enjoyable now but will improve with one or two years of cellaring.
92/100, $ 78.00
Vigne de l’Enfant Jesu
This is a monopole vineyard i.e entirely owned by Bouchard Pere et Fils, and available only through the winery or its agents in export markets. The entire property belongs to Bouchard Pere et Fils, and is known for its consistency in fine quality year after year. The vines are pruned to yield approximately five tons per hectare. This multidimensional, silky smooth and fruity wine is truly outstanding to enjoy with food, or sip while contemplating wine in general, or philosophy of nature in particular.
95/100, $ 144.00
White wines
Meursault Les Goutte d’Or (Golden Drops)
Exudes ripe apple and pear aromas, is full-bodied with excellent depth and “power”. Refined, lively, and elegant on the palate.
94/100, $ 114.00
Meursault Genevrieres
Smooth, warming, clean, and balanced, Match with pan-fried Dover sole, salmon with beurre blanc, or pike dumplings in cream sauce.
94/100, $ 114.00
Corton-Charlemagne
Intense fruitiness and typical minerality derived from the Cimmeridgian soil of the region. Soft, rich and elegant mid-plate. Many connoisseurs consider this vineyard the epitome of white Burgundies. Only 17,300 bottles were produced. Worth aging for four to five years.
95/100, $ 200.00
Chevalier-Montrachet Grand Cru
A rare treat of a wine offering superb minerality, and fruit. Distinguished bouquet, intermingling with floral aromas. Complex and rich mid-palate with an unusually long and pleasant aftertaste. A wine that must be tasted to appreciate it. Words can hardly ever do justice to the subtlety and refinement of this wine in this vintage.
95/100, $ 394.00
All of the above are special imports and will take approximately eight weeks to
arrive. Prices quoted are all-inclusive, but approximate pending on currency fluctuations.
Order can be faxed or phoned in.
For orders contact Jason at Woodman Wines and Spirits
Telephone: 416 767 5114 / Fax 416 767 9008
Guest Writer – Hrayr Berberoglu E-mail or interested in his books?.
|
Share it with others! | 
|
|
Tags: Bouchard Pere et Fils, Burgundy, France
