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This is a book who drink wine, but more so for Bordeaux aficionados. The author, a master of wine, qualified b the Institute of Master’s of Wine in London, England, and a biologist, set out to reveal the true Bordeaux and examine the 1855 classification – how it happened, its shortcomings, and how it was never fully revised, although many have called for such an action. Only one chateau, Château Mouton Rothschild, was upgraded from the top of the second growth to grand cru. |
Yet, over time, some chateaux have over preformed and should have been promoted, and while others under performed and by all means should have been demoted, or even better, dropped from the list.
Then there is the thorny question of second labels, in some cases even third labels of famous chateaux. The author deals with all of those in detail.
Then of course there are questions about brokers (courtiers) and shippers (negociants), In olden times, negociants filled a gap in the distribution system by buying the young wine from a chateau or other producer and celalring it in their cellars at the Quai de Chartrons, which in the 16th century was out of the towncenter, partially because they were foreigners and were not allowed to stay in the city.
They blended or “ameliorated” the wine with wines form other regions including Spain and Cotes du Rhone to render then tasty and/or more powerful. (The term Hermitage, comes to mind). In olden times pale and low alcohol Bordeaux wines were blended with Hermitage wines from Cotes du Rhone and marketed as Bordeaux hermitage.
Today, with advanced technology, global arming, and much better viticultural practices overall quality is superior to even the 20th century/ Practically all estates, which are mostly called chateau, bottle their own wine to ensure authenticity.
Then there is AOC (Appellation d’origine controlee), which, from time to time discovers frauds and punishes culprits.
B.Lewin deals with this subject in detail to convey to the reader that even AOC labelled wines must be purchased with due consideration.
The turbulent and highly fascinating history of Bordeaux vitviniculture is dealt with in sufficient detail to provide valuable background to the evolution of the trade.
The much discussed “en primeur” system is also discussed and appropriately analysed. In the end, the trade must understand that Bordelais are master marketers and know how to manipulate opinion.
The author also discusses the role of wine critics (American and British) and how they influence pricing.
Do you know that the grape varieties used today are some the many that were used a century ago and the world famous “Left bank” of the Gironde was swampland before Dutch engineers drained it?
You will discover all of these and much more by reading this book, and referring to it from time to time.
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Keith
December 5th, 2009 at 23:15
At last, another quality book on my favorite subject: Bordeaux wines. The history and rivalries make for fascinating reading.
The allure of Bordeaux is due to the quality of the wines, but the exorbitant prices are due to marketing, demand and perceived scarcity. Still there are some bargains to be found if one is diligent in research.
.-= Keith@Norman Rockwell Art´s last blog ..Nov 29, Santa’s Workshop by Norman Rockwell from 12/14/1922 Clintonville Gazette =-.