While in the 1970’s Ontario wines were still of quite low quality and regarded as undrinkable, shortly after the Free Trade Agreement, quality started to improve. As time passed improvement accelerated, and today many truly Ontario grown wines are of good and very good quality.

This rapid improvement can be partially attributed to forcing wineries to create acceptable standards (VQA= Vintners Quality Alliance), government financial help to uproot vineyards planted to vitis labrusca species, the FTA that actually initiated the creation of VQA, education of grape growers and winemakers, marketing efforts ad individuals like Donald Ziraldo, Karl Kaiser, Paul Bosq and many others who contributed to formulating and enforcing rules and regulations.

I think the industry advanced in 30 – 40 years as much as European vitiviniculture did in the last 200 years, or at a faster rate than most other countries. Admittedly, a lot of techniques adopted originated in Europe, regardless, winemakers and entrepreneurs saw to it that they were implemented.

Compared to the landmass Canada occupies, vineyards represent a miniscule proportion, simply because of the climate.

There are only five provinces that produce wine from locally grown grapes (Ontario, British Columbia, Quebec, Nova Scotia and Prince Edward Island). Of all Ontario has the largest acreage that can still be expanded.

The production still cannot satisfy internal demand, and to produce well-made Ontario wine at premium prices is still difficult, as the public clings to the idea that locally produced wine must be considerably less expensive than imported bottles.
Premium wine in Canada can never be “cheap” for a variety of reasons – suitable land is scarce and accordingly expensive, labour costs are high, taxes (at all levels( are high, and governments at all levels help very little to support the industry,.

Regardless, many courageous individuals have opened and continue to open wineries. Some do so for prestige, others love to the challenge of producing and marketing, yet others make fortunes in other industries and decide to get into winemaking.
Fine Canadian wines are produced in small quantities and mostly sold in winery stores or by the Vintages division of the L C B O. Most wineries ship orders to Ontario addresses for an additional cost.

When buying Ontario wines it is important to watch the vintage date. Some years are known to yield poorly structured wines. Approximately three to four vintages every decade are very fine, other good, and a few below average.
Here are some Ontario wines that I recommend.

White wines

Pinot Gris, 2008, Fielding Estate Off-dry, attractive, Alsatian style, fruity, and balanced. Superbly suited to seafood stews, roast herbed chicken, and fruit-stuffed roast pork loin.

Dim Vineyard Riesling, 2008, Stoney Ridge Smells of apricots and peaches with honey undertones. Medium-dry with good crisp acidity. Long finish.

Dim Vineyard Riesling, 2008, Stoney Ridge Smells of apricots and peaches with honey undertones. Medium dry with good crisp acidity. Long finish.

Sauvignon Blanc, 2007, Vineland Estates Light, fragrant, refreshing with lemon and melon flavours. Invigorating.

White Icewine, 2008, Stratus A blend of riesling and semillon of medium-colour. Aromas of pineapple, honeysuckle, flowers and grapefruit emanate from the glass. Lively acidity intermingling with spice and rosewater on the palate. Long aftertaste.

Le Grand Clos Chardonnay, 2007, Le Clos Jordanne Le Clos Jordanne’s top chardonnay with intensity, ripe fruit, purity, and minerality and toastiness. A superbly balanced and refined wine.

Village Reserve Chardonnay, 2007, Le Clos Jordanne Aromas of citrus fruits, and peach waft out of the glass. Vanilla and hazelnut flavours dominate in the mouth. Excellent balance and refreshing finish.

Reserve Chardonnay, 2005, Creekside Estate Winery Apple, and tropical fruit aromas, good balance, depth and fruit purity make this wine outstanding. Cellar for two to three years.

Nadja’s Vineyard Riesling, 2008, Flat Rock Vineyards Exudes lime, pear and Granny Smith apple aromas. Deeply flavoured, and well balanced. From the best section of the property and named after the mother of the owner of the winery Ed Madronich. Excellent value.

Red wines

Meritage, 2007, Tawse Winery Fruity with hints of oak. Intense ad concentrated on the palate, with cocoa and vanilla flavours.

Cherry Avenue Pinot Noir, 2007, Tawse Winery Elegant, smells of raspberries, plum, and cherry intermingle. In the mouth cocoa and vanilla flavours dominate. Long finish,

Cabernet Sauvignon/Syrah, 2007, Fielding estate Winery Composed of 50 per cent cabernet sauvignon, 20 syrah and 20 cabernet franc. This smooth, balanced, smoky, and full-bodied wine was barrel aged for 18 months.

Gravity Pinot Noir, 2007, Flat Rock Vineyards Ruby coloured pinto noir, Smells of plums and cherries, is medium-bodied, well extracted, and spicy. Fully balanced with a long aftertaste.

Nine Barrel Shiraz, 2007. Collio From lake Erie North Shore appellation this wine is smooth, fruity, and made only in good vintages. Long aftertaste.

Cabernet Sauvignon, 2007, Pelee Island From the most southerly landmass in Canada, this dark red emanates aromas of blackberries. It offers spicy, cinnamon, nutmeg flavours and underlined with a little oak. Full bodied and smooth.

Cabernet Sauvingon, 2007, The Foregin Affair This is an unusual icewine with aromas of guava, raspberries, strawberries, plum jam and honey. Superbly balanced with a lingering and pleasant aftertaste.

Sticky Beal red icewine, 2007, blended using cabernet sauvignon, cabernet franc, shiraz and sangiovese. This fine wine smells of strawberries, rhubarb, cocoa and spice. Long aftertaste.
Sticky Beal is and Australian expression for sweet wines. The name is given to honour the talented winemaker.

Laundry Vineyard Cabernet Franc, 2007, Tawse Winery Cherry, cranberry, currant and mocha smells emanate from the glass. Finely balanced with a fine acid backbone. Cellar for two years before enjoying. Good value.

Pinot Noir, 2007, Closson Chase Light in colour but not in aromas and flavour.
A very attractive pinot noir from Price Edward County created by an excellent winemaker.

Red, 2006, Stratus Fruity, elegant, medium-bodied and refined. Despite the difficult 2006 vintage J P Groulx was able to cerate a fine wine.
Le Grand Clos Pinot Noir, 2007, Le Clos de Jordanne An impressive pinot noir, regal wine, with a full body and layers of flavours reflecting perfectly the terroir of the vineyard.

Village Reserve Pinot Noir, 2007, Le Clos de Jordanne Fruity (strawberries), and medium-bodied well balanced with a long and satisfying aftertaste.

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Tags: ONTARIO WINES, OUTSTANDING

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